Going to replace engine/trans/torque mounts

[1995E]

I’m planning on changing the torque, strut, and engine mount but I’m wondering if it’s safe to just jack it up on the oil pan.

Also, when I got the new motormount, it seems to have changed in appearance. My stock motormount has a giant nut at the top.

Does anyone know the torque specs for the mounting bolts? Thanks!

 

[sheltonfilms]

I’m planning on changing the torque, strut, and engine mount but I’m wondering if it’s safe to just jack it up on the oil pan.

Also, when I got the new motormount, it seems to have changed in appearance. My stock motormount has a giant nut at the top.

Does anyone know the torque specs for the mounting bolts? Thanks!

Service manual says it's ok to use block of wood and jack.

Side mount:

Trans side mount:

Torque mount:

66 ft lbs

 

[sheltonfilms]

Oh and heads up the upper transmission mount shows having an engine hook added to the rear head at the left and supporting it with an engine hoist. I think a jack under the transmission will work but be careful.

I forgot to ask how many miles do you have? I never replaced a mount until I knew it was bad.

 

[1995E]

Oh and heads up the upper transmission mount shows having an engine hook added to the rear head at the left and supporting it with an engine hoist. I think a jack under the transmission will work but be careful.

I forgot to ask how many miles do you have? I never replaced a mount until I knew it was bad.

85K. My engine mount leaked all of the fluid and I seem to have some binding after that so that’s why I’m replacing it. Thanks for the warning!

Also, Idk if it’s just me but the new engine mount that I got seems to be different than my 2011. My 2011 has a huge nut on the top while the replacement does not. Did they change the design? The torque mount also seems very different with a thicker metal surround.

 

[1995E]

I was able to change the motor mount and torque mount with ease! Changing the transmission mount looks to be difficult though.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Old post yes, but have a couple questions/comments. Do you need to remove the coolant reservoir to replace the passenger side one? Torque strut on the bottom looks fairly simple. Plan to replace soon, very soon. Any recommendations on replacing these?

 

[insyder]

Getting ready to do this one myself. For the "insulator" on the drivers side, I haven't started but it looks to be "buried" under the battery and intake assembly. Is this right?

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Yes its is. I didnt attempt it. My mechanic doesn't charge me much

 

[insyder]

Just wrapped up the driver side transmission mount. Yes, you can just use a jack to hold up the engine and get the bolts started. The two 13mm the go sideways into the frame rail are a ***** to pull in and put back. Use a 13mm and 15mm deep stickers with impact gun to remove/replace the main bolts and it's too easy.

156k miles and the mount was trashed! In case you don't get it, the two pieces I'm showing here are supposed to be one piece.

 

[runningonfords]

Just wrapped up the driver side transmission mount. Yes, you can just use a jack to hold up the engine and get the bolts started. The two 13mm the go sideways into the frame rail are a ***** to pull in and put back. Use a 13mm and 15mm deep stickers with impact gun to remove/replace the main bolts and it's too easy.

156k miles and the mount was trashed! In case you don't get it, the two pieces I'm showing here are supposed to be one piece.

Hope this thread ain't quite dead because all great info here. I'm going to do the 3 mounts replacement. Passenger-side and anti-roll ones seem easy. The driver-side trans is specific about using an engine support bar setup (see below). I've done this similar mount setup on smaller 2.0L engines in a sedan, always just supporting from below with a few jacks and wood blocks, being careful, going slow. All I'm really worried about is twisting motion and the greater weight of the v6 & 6F55 trans, but multiple jacks and blocks positioned below strategically usually solve this.

Insyder, everything worked out okay for you though? No adverse effects after supporting from below to do this job on the driver side trans mount? Anyone else have thoughts/experience to share. Thanks.

 

[runningonfords]

Finished! Wow! WHAT a difference. My takeoff is changed dramatically. Very little delay and no herky-jerky front end now! Unreal, feels like a new car. Mounts above the transmission were torn and worn out. What a crappy design of the original mounts!?!?! A bolt through the rubber its putting torsional strain on. The design of the newest mounts with a flat bar through the rubber is very different than what was on the car originally.

It wasn't TOO difficult to replace these, using impact wrench to get the nuts/bolts off. The transmission side one is obnoxious because you pretty much have to have straight ratcheting 13mm closed-end wrenches for the 2 sideways-facing bolts (do these first to almost tight), and the torque values are guessed by feel (its 41 ft*lbs, so gutentite).
Engine gonna need to go up and down a bit to get things right. I used a scissor jack as backup/insurance and a floor-type hydraulic jack can go up and down nicely next to it and get it done. Use wood blocks. You're gonna need a prybar to make sure holes aren't all offcenter and such. Impact wrench, 1/2 inch extensions of various size, impact universal joint. 15/13/18 deep sockets. Air box, battery box gotta come out. Do the transmission one first, start in the morning. Bang, done. What a difference. I'm going driving!

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Finished! Wow! WHAT a difference. My takeoff is changed dramatically. Very little delay and no herky-jerky front end now! Unreal, feels like a new car. Mounts above the transmission were torn and worn out. What a crappy design of the original mounts!?!?! A bolt through the rubber its putting torsional strain on. The design of the newest mounts with a flat bar through the rubber is very different than what was on the car originally.

It wasn't TOO difficult to replace these, using impact wrench to get the nuts/bolts off. The transmission side one is obnoxious because you pretty much have to have straight ratcheting 13mm closed-end wrenches for the 2 sideways-facing bolts (do these first to almost tight), and the torque values are guessed by feel (its 41 ft*lbs, so gutentite).
Engine gonna need to go up and down a bit to get things right. I used a scissor jack as backup/insurance and a floor-type hydraulic jack can go up and down nicely next to it and get it done. Use wood blocks. You're gonna need a prybar to make sure holes aren't all offcenter and such. Impact wrench, 1/2 inch extensions of various size, impact universal joint. 15/13/18 deep sockets. Air box, battery box gotta come out. Do the transmission one first, start in the morning. Bang, done. What a difference. I'm going driving!

How many miles? You should see the torque strut on a ford 500. 300 dollar part that could be fixed with a $10 volvo part or even rumors of a hockey puck.

 

[runningonfords]

How many miles? You should see the torque strut on a ford 500. 300 dollar part that could be fixed with a $10 volvo part or even rumors of a hockey puck.

LOL. The torque strut seemed the least worn on mine silly enough, as if the torque (plane-of-the-axles) force is experienced on the swinging upper mounts more, WTF? I'm at 135k, but its really not the best-designed part as evidenced by the multiple re-designs. A hockey puck is like a polyurethane upgrade, RIGHT? I'd buy solid hard durometer rubber mounts if I could, but no one is offering a reasonable, non-ice-game alternative. Maybe need to get that hockey puck into the hydraulic press, hmmmmmmm............

p.s.: I should say too that after replacing these with wheel chocks in place, the E-brake and normal brake pressed, car in drive, quick gassing of the accelerator, there is significantly less engine movement front-to-back. I'm very happy with the improvement.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

LOL. The torque strut seemed the least worn on mine silly enough, as if the torque (plane-of-the-axles) force is experienced on the swinging upper mounts more, WTF? I'm at 135k, but its really not the best-designed part as evidenced by the multiple re-designs. A hockey puck is like a polyurethane upgrade, RIGHT? I'd buy solid hard durometer rubber mounts if I could, but no one is offering a reasonable, non-ice-game alternative. Maybe need to get that hockey puck into the hydraulic press, hmmmmmmm............

p.s.: I should say too that after replacing these with wheel chocks in place, the E-brake and normal brake pressed, car in drive, quick gassing of the accelerator, there is significantly less engine movement front-to-back. I'm very happy with the improvement.

I noticed better Park to Drive with the 2 mounts. Didn't replace trans mounts on mine and don't plan to spend any more money on a 150k car.

 

[runningonfords]

I noticed better Park to Drive with the 2 mounts. Didn't replace trans mounts on mine and don't plan to spend any more money on a 150k car.

I respect your position, sir, (cost v benefit) but it's less than 60 bucks. So critical. Add a coupla pucks if you can't afford it, lol. Trans mount was easily the most out of spec on mine, like seriously borked beyond belief. I was floored. 1 finger could push the thing to limit, multiple tears in the rubber, I can't imagine your 2011 is any better. Night and day difference, I've always wondered what the delay and jerking on acceleration was. Pull the battery and air boxes and have a look with a brief prying. It's like 8 nuts and bolts to do so. Look at the angle of the transmission mount relative to "level". 15 minutes of time to get in there. I did it as a preparation for parts already-ordered. I'm sure yours are gone. Especially if you're 2011, they were very different then and much-worse from what I've seen on here. My part numbers started for the trans side mount with FB5Z. I certainly understand the run until done mantra though. You have a good one either way.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

I respect your position, sir, (cost v benefit) but it's less than 60 bucks. So critical. Add a coupla pucks if you can't afford it, lol. Trans mount was easily the most out of spec on mine, like seriously borked beyond belief. I was floored. 1 finger could push the thing to limit, multiple tears in the rubber, I can't imagine your 2011 is any better. Night and day difference, I've always wondered what the delay and jerking on acceleration was. Pull the battery and air boxes and have a look with a brief prying. It's like 8 nuts and bolts to do so. Look at the angle of the transmission mount relative to "level". 15 minutes of time to get in there. I did it as a preparation for parts already-ordered. I'm sure yours are gone. Especially if you're 2011, they were very different then and much-worse from what I've seen on here. My part numbers started for the trans side mount with FB5Z. I certainly understand the run until done mantra though. You have a good one either way.

My wife and kids keep me busy. I don't have extra time like I used to have. I might think about replacing it. Do you use an impact? Cordless or corded/air?

 

[runningonfords]

I used an air impact, can't imagine doing it without it and the extensions and U-joint. The bolts below the trans mount are the worst cause they have to be done by hand. A cordless one might do well enough for ya, none of the bolts are super torqued, but they all have that blue glue on the threads, so....

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

I used an air impact, can't imagine doing it without it and the extensions and U-joint. The bolts below the trans mount are the worst cause they have to be done by hand. A cordless one might do well enough for ya, none of the bolts are super torqued, but they all have that blue glue on the threads, so....

Would be an excuse to get some new impact accessories