04 stuck in 4x4

[Crane_Guy]

I need help friends. I have a 4L '04 and the wheels bind up and the tires chirp when I'm turning hard. I believe it is stuck in 4 high. To confirm I jacked up the front end and tried to turn the tires by hand while in park, they only turned a little each way. In neutral they spin fine. The control switches in the dash appear to do nothing and I have no indicator lights on the dash on. When I turn the key the 4low light comes on during the lamp test. I checked all the fuses in both panels. I removed the shift motor and I could see the shaft the shift motor turns is rotated over to 4h position, it can move it by hand pretty easy so I tried to bench test the shift motor, my jumper wire got very hot very fast when I applied power to the shifter so I figured it was bad since it didn't move at all. Replaced it and still no change. I then checked the switches and they are getting power and there is a low voltage signal one of the wires that varies depending on which of the 3 buttons I push. I also verified power to the 4x4 relays with key on and brake pressed. I'm thinking it might be the module but would like to know what someone smarter thinks.

 

[mudwieser1]

Mine is doing the same thing, did you figure anything out? When you removed the motor does your t-case only have H-N-L? Where is 2wd?

 

[imp]

@Crane_Guy @mudwieser1
In 2004, the shift motor has no effect on 4X4 HIGH (or 4X4 AUTO). It only shifts the T-Case to 4X4 LOW and back out again. 4X4 HIGH and 4X4 AUTO involve electrically energizing a magnetic clutch, which connects power to the front driveshaft. AUTO allows the PCM to decide when and if to turn on the clutch. HIGH turns it on constantly, by manually switching. Be careful not to forget it is in HIGH and re-enter onto pavement. imp

 

[mudwieser1]

Ok, so I've removed the t-case shift motor, unplugged the 4x4cm, removed both 4x4 fuses (in underhood fuse box) and disconnected the battery. Put it all back together and it's still in 4x4...Is there a way to disconnect the brown wire temporarily without cutting it, just to see if that works? If this don't work, I'm dropping the front driveshaft for now.

 

[TechGuru]

Ok, so I've removed the t-case shift motor, unplugged the 4x4cm, removed both 4x4 fuses (in underhood fuse box) and disconnected the battery. Put it all back together and it's still in 4x4...Is there a way to disconnect the brown wire temporarily without cutting it, just to see if that works? If this don't work, I'm dropping the front driveshaft for now.

Unplug the 4x4 module behind the glove compartment.

Are you sure it's stuck? Could just be bad alignment or the LSD in the rear...

 

[imp]

Unplug the 4x4 module behind the glove compartment.

Are you sure it's stuck? Could just be bad alignment or the LSD in the rear...

@TechGuru
I can find no reference in my Ford Wiring Diagrams referencing a 4X4 Module. All electrical connections are shown going to the PCM. I believe, however, that 2nd. Gens did have a separate 4X4 Module. I could be wrong. imp

 

[TechGuru]

@TechGuru
I can find no reference in my Ford Wiring Diagrams referencing a 4X4 Module. All electrical connections are shown going to the PCM. I believe, however, that 2nd. Gens did have a separate 4X4 Module. I could be wrong. imp

Says Motorola on it.

 

[doug625]

@Crane_Guy @mudwieser1
In 2004, the shift motor has no effect on 4X4 HIGH (or 4X4 AUTO). It only shifts the T-Case to 4X4 LOW and back out again. 4X4 HIGH and 4X4 AUTO involve electrically energizing a magnetic clutch, which connects power to the front driveshaft. AUTO allows the PCM to decide when and if to turn on the clutch. HIGH turns it on constantly, by manually switching. Be careful not to forget it is in HIGH and re-enter onto pavement. imp

I'm assuming this would also be true in a 2002?

 

[TechGuru]

I'm assuming this would also be true in a 2002?

Yes.

 

[mudwieser1]

So, I finally broke down and took it to a transmission shop. He told me it is my tires causing the issue. I have 235/70/16 on all 4 corners but because the rear are under half tread and the front ones are nearly new, it is causeing the 4x4 to engage. He said the overall size of the tires are too different. Has anyone heard of this?

 

[TechGuru]

Um yes, you must replace all 4 tires as a set on these vehicles (4x4 models) or any AWD vehicle.

You're risking damaging the magnetic clutch driving it like that...it's not designed for constant slipping, it will overheat...

Here's a good yet pretty affordable tire:

https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/yokohama-geolandar-a-t-s/p/43421

 

[doug625]

The smallest difference in tires will make it bind up, especially if the rears are a little more worn or even under inflated. It thinks they're spinning faster than the fronts and engages the fronts.

 

[TechGuru]

The smallest difference in tires will make it bind up, especially if the rears are a little more worn or even under inflated. It thinks they're spinning faster than the fronts and engages the fronts.

I've been wondering, any idea what happens if the front spins faster than the rear?

 

[doug625]

I've been wondering, any idea what happens if the front spins faster than the rear?

That might be hard on the transfer case when the 4x4 is engaged, but since the rears are always "engaged" I don't believe this would confuse the 4x4 module while driving in 4x4 auto mode. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[N1265]

Is there any way to install a switch to cut the power to the magnetic clutch ( to lock it into 2wd ) . And if you did this, would you be able to use worn tires on an axle without causing any damage to anything ? ( when running at highway speeds in 2wd )

 

[Mbrooks420]

Search for ‘brown wire mod’

 

[TechGuru]

And if you did this, would you be able to use worn tires on an axle without causing any damage to anything ? ( when running at highway speeds in 2wd )

Nope. The difference in speed would still ruin the magnetic clutch.

 

[imp]

Nope. The difference in speed would still ruin the magnetic clutch.

@TechGuru
Well, the non-AWD transfer case is Borg-Warner 44-11 model. It uses an electromagnetic ball ramp clutch to feed torque ONLY to the front driveshaft. So, no, if the power to it is shut off, thereby disabling 4X4 Auto and 4X4 HIGH, any difference in tire size between FRONT and REAR drive axles would not have any effect on the transfer case, other than to allow the front driveshaft to turn at a different speed than the rear. See, the torque output of the clutch goes ONLY to the front driveshaft. BUT, you surely want close to the same-size tires on each axle, to prevent undue wear on differential gears, regardless of any other consideration.

Now, the 44-11 is utilized in a special way when Control-Track is present, an optional added bit of gadgetry. It partially energizes the clutch nearly all the time, as slight speed differences between front and rear driveshafts occur, due to normal driving conditions, like cornering. It does this ONLY in 4x4 AUTO position. Manually switching OFF the clutch by hand will likely cause more warning bells & whistles with Control-Track than with plain old 4X4 AUTO, HIGH, and LOW, but I expect even without C.T., a CEL will be thrown due to unexpected shaft speed ratios.

Some of the real details continue to elude me, like the tales of feeding an uneven torque split between front & rear. imp

 

[TechGuru]

@TechGuru
Well, the non-AWD transfer case is Borg-Warner 44-11 model. It uses an electromagnetic ball ramp clutch to feed torque ONLY to the front driveshaft. So, no, if the power to it is shut off, thereby disabling 4X4 Auto and 4X4 HIGH, any difference in tire size between FRONT and REAR drive axles would not have any effect on the transfer case, other than to allow the front driveshaft to turn at a different speed than the rear. See, the torque output of the clutch goes ONLY to the front driveshaft. BUT, you surely want close to the same-size tires on each axle, to prevent undue wear on differential gears, regardless of any other consideration.

Now, the 44-11 is utilized in a special way when Control-Track is present, an optional added bit of gadgetry. It partially energizes the clutch nearly all the time, as slight speed differences between front and rear driveshafts occur, due to normal driving conditions, like cornering. It does this ONLY in 4x4 AUTO position. Manually switching OFF the clutch by hand will likely cause more warning bells & whistles with Control-Track than with plain old 4X4 AUTO, HIGH, and LOW, but I expect even without C.T., a CEL will be thrown due to unexpected shaft speed ratios.

Some of the real details continue to elude me, like the tales of feeding an uneven torque split between front & rear. imp

I thought it was a DANA transfer case? If these transfer cases are destroyed by towing with only 1 axle off the ground (which both the manual and towing guides say these must be towed with all 4 wheels off the ground) then I would think running different tire sizes would also destroy it (just not as fast)...

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’s a Borg Warner. Never a Dana case in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gen Explorers, I believe.