Yet another no start/fuel pump question

[koda2000]

Thanks, that's what I thought. Is the part pictured in the Rock Auto link for an ST or an Explorer? There's not nearly that much metal on my '01 ST. Both hoses connect to the metal just a few inches behind the filler door.

I've edited my original response (please re-read). The metal part says it's for an '01 ST. It looks the same as mine looked, but I don't have a plastic fuel tank. I removed mine filler pipe when I dropped my tank (I don't remember why, I think it was because I had my inner fender off anyway) and my hoses didn't connect very close to the filler neck. Is it possible someone cut the pipes?

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I was correcting myself as you were responding. Adding a bit of copper pipe seems like a good idea.

 

[koda2000]

BTW - As far as disconnecting the evap line and pressure sensor plug from the tank...

As I told you earlier, the evap line connector must be squeezed and pushed in before pulling on it to get the locking rings to release. It has these semi circular rings on each side that have to be warped to get them to release from the plastic port on the tank. I've managed to do this with my fingers or a pair of pliers, but I've also broken the plastic rings on occasion. This does not seem to be a big deal as the hose stays on the port pretty well w/out the locking rings, because it has a internal O-ring. I just clean the port and coat it with some dielectric grease.

The electrical plug on the pressure sensor is your typical weather-tight electrical connector that requires a small screw driver to release a clip.

Both of these things are a little hard to release because it's hard to see what you're doing and are working blind for the most part. Taking the electrical harness loose from the frame helps.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

You're a little late. Everything is back together except the fill and vent hoses. The evap line came off easily, but the electrical connector didn't, even after I figured out how it released. The tank strap was a royal pain to get bent back to the correct shape so I could get the bolt in. Should go ok now.

Regarding the fill and vent tubes - I was digging around to find something in case I need to splice the vent tube, and discovered the metal piece you linked to above that came with the bed I swapped last summer. It's for an '02 and it's slightly different. The vent tube looks to be slightly smaller, at least on the end. It's a larger diameter on the end on the '01, but not the '02. The larger diameter section is what rusted off on my truck. The hose is entirely different too as it has a couple of tees with other hoses branching off it. Still could probably make the metal tubes work on the '01, but in my case the hose is the bigger problem if it's not long enough.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

IT RUNS! I will have to go back and cut the vent hose where it's a smaller diameter behind the rusted metal that's in it and splice a couple of inches in, but it works as is for now. It's just long enough now, but the diameter of the end of the hose is larger than the metal tube that's left. It's clamped on, but it's not a good fit.

 

[koda2000]

IT RUNS! I will have to go back and cut the vent hose where it's a smaller diameter behind the rusted metal that's in it and splice a couple of inches in, but it works as is for now. It's just long enough now, but the diameter of the end of the hose is larger than the metal tube that's left. It's clamped on, but it's not a good fit.

IDK if/how well it might work, but auto parts stores stock plastic adapters, which are usually used to heater hoses. There are sizes that may be 5/8" on one side and 3/4" in the other. The thing is, how would they stand up to gas fuels? There's probably something similar available at the hardware store in copper. I'd probably just buy a new filler neck and be done with it.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I'm thinking to use a barbed brass fitting that's used to splice hoses. Might need 2.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good work. Now you'll think a fuel pump is no problem, for a few years, and then you'll forget some of the tricks you just learned.

I'd replace the fuel fill part also, if it rusted some already, it might all need to go.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

After taking the truck on a test drive today, I can say with certainty this job should have been done long ago. It hasn't run or accelerated this strong in the nearly 4 years I've owned it. It felt slow and lazy before, but now feels impressive for an engine this size in a truck this heavy.

Good work. Now you'll think a fuel pump is no problem, for a few years, and then you'll forget some of the tricks you just learned.

I'd replace the fuel fill part also, if it rusted some already, it might all need to go.

Not sure I really learned many tricks on this job. All the things I expected to be a big problem, like rusted bolts, fuel lines at the filter, etc, went pretty well, and most of the little things that could possibly be a problem were huge, time consuming pains. I'm not going to replace the metal fill and vent tubes. If you look at the parts in the links koda provided you can see how the vent tube is a larger diameter at the very end. That is where it's rusted off. The rest looks ok. If I replaced everything that's rusty on this truck, I'd just swap the body and drivetrain to a rust-free chassis. Top side, the truck doesn't look rusty at all, aside from the lower seam on the driver's door, now that I've replaced the tailgate, but underneath is a different story. The body and mounts look good, but the frame and much of what's attached to it have a lot of rust.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement!

 

[koda2000]

Congrats!

 

[CodiBroney]

Did you try the fuel switch shut off button under the passenger side dash?

 

[CodiBroney]

Did you try the fuel switch shut off button under the passenger side dash?