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03 lincoln aviator

That escalated quickly. Any idea what went wrong?
Its been smoking bad for months,was just a matter of time till something happened
No clue yet..either a rod bearing went out and caused low oil psi and caused piston to valve contact or a piston melted from detonation. .both can cause the motor to lock
 



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So with the death of the new trans in the ranger this project just got pushed up on the list...

Got it towed over to my new house and in my garage. .let the work begin. ..

For now just rebuilding the motor with the 5.0 stroker kit i have,the charger will go on later once the ranger is back up and running. ..

I need to find a flex plate that is 8 bolts and will bolt up to the 5r55s adapter and tq converter ..anyone???
20180305_194609.jpg
20180305_194118.jpg


So hard to see these and not put them on...soon enough though ...

20180304_171453.jpg
 






Try this thread of Dale's. He mentions an 8-bolt crank he has, and another member posted about what he did to make it work. Next project vehicle?

Here's the post quoted if I can do it right;
I must have missed it, how did you get an 8-bolt crank? I ran into the same issue. Be careful with flexplates. If you use an non explorer flexplate, you will need a non explorer starter. They have a specific ring gear depth that is different from other fords. I have heard that you can machine down the torque converter plate slitghy and it will fit into a v10 super duty flex plate. Or you can do what I did and cut the center out of an 8-bolt flexplate and weld it to the explorer flexplate. Then redrill the 6 bolts, 2 will match up.
 






Try this thread of Dale's. He mentions an 8-bolt crank he has, and another member posted about what he did to make it work. Next project vehicle?

Here's the post quoted if I can do it right;
I have seen that..i swear i also seen they came out with flexplates that have multiple holes for different tq converter setups that are for the 8 bolt 4.6..i just can find any of my info,ill have to start looking all over again..lol
 












Sorry, one of Ford's not better ideas. They love to make mixed bolt patterned parts among different models etc. We have to be smarter than their engineers. I think we do pretty well.
 






Today I measured the 4 bolt adapter to be 11.5 inches between opposite studs.
Adapter11.5.jpg


I haven't counted the ring gear teeth yet but most specifications indicate there are 164. When I verify that I'll order a Hays 12-071 flexplate and ARP 254-2901 flexplate bolt set. All of the photos I found for the Hays 12-071 show multiple holes with various spacing but they are not accurate. I found a review comment stating that there are only the 8 crankshaft holes and the 4 torque converter adapter holes with 11.5 inch spacing.
Hays12-071.jpg

The ARP 254-2901 is an 8 bolt set with M10-1.00 x 0.800 inches. I dislike buying 12 point bolts because they can "round" easier than hex head bolts. However, the ARP bolts should be stronger than the hex head bolts available from Ford which I haven't priced yet.
 






Today I measured the 4 bolt adapter to be 11.5 inches between opposite studs.
View attachment 156429

I haven't counted the ring gear teeth yet but most specifications indicate there are 164. When I verify that I'll order a Hays 12-071 flexplate and ARP 254-2901 flexplate bolt set. All of the photos I found for the Hays 12-071 show multiple holes with various spacing but they are not accurate. I found a review comment stating that there are only the 8 crankshaft holes and the 4 torque converter adapter holes with 11.5 inch spacing.
View attachment 156430
The ARP 254-2901 is an 8 bolt set with M10-1.00 x 0.800 inches. I dislike buying 12 point bolts because they can "round" easier than hex head bolts. However, the ARP bolts should be stronger than the hex head bolts available from Ford which I haven't priced yet.
That looks very promising. .are you ordering it?? If so let me know from where and the specific part number
 






Have you guys tried prw?
PRW Industries

This is on a much smaller scale, but I was struggling finding a 28oz flex plate with the correct number of teeth for my 347, and called them. They called a guy to the phone and he knew exactly what I needed (And it was cheep). Never know, lightning might strike twice.
 






Today I verified that the stock ring gear contains 164 teeth so I ordered the Hays 12-071 flexplate and the ARP 254-2901 flexplate to crankshaft bolts from Summit Racing. I also ordered Anchor 3047 and 3048 motor mounts from Summit. The flexplate and bolts were in stock and the motor mounts will be shipped directly from the factory. I should have the flexplate and bolts next week and will test fit to the torque converter adapter and then the crankshaft.
 






The flexplate arrived yesterday and its not what I expected.
Hay12-071a.jpg

I checked the part number and the label shows Hays 12-071 but it was manufactured by PRW Industries. The pairs of holes have 11.5 inch spacing, there are 164 teeth and the outer diameter of the ring gear is the same as my stock ring gear. The crankshaft bolt spacing is 3 inches same as stock and my 8 bolt crank. I test fit the flexplate on the torque converter adapter and it is a good fit.
Hay12-071b.jpg

At first I thought the flexplate was warped a little because it rocked on the adapter. But after removing the flexplate, then rotating it 90 degrees it still rocked so the adapter is warped. I'm not going to worry about it.

I'm concerned about the ARP crankshaft bolts being too long. I measured the thickness of the flexplate at the crankshaft holes and compared that to the space between the face of an installed bolt that had bottomed out and crankshaft with no flexplate. It appears that the space is greater than the thickness of the flexplate. I confirmed that I had flexplate bolts instead of flywheel bolts and measured the length from face to end as 0.8 inches as specified. I'm wondering if Eagle assumed that all of their 8 bolts cranks would use flywheels and didn't drill the holes in the crank deep enough. ARP strongly states do not use washers with their bolts. I'll know more when the engine is off the stand and on the crane so I can carefully check that the bolts are not bottoming. You may want to purchase 8 of the Ford stock bolts to avoid this issue.
 






The flexplate arrived yesterday and its not what I expected.
View attachment 156536
I checked the part number and the label shows Hays 12-071 but it was manufactured by PRW Industries. The pairs of holes have 11.5 inch spacing, there are 164 teeth and the outer diameter of the ring gear is the same as my stock ring gear. The crankshaft bolt spacing is 3 inches same as stock and my 8 bolt crank. I test fit the flexplate on the torque converter adapter and it is a good fit.
View attachment 156537
At first I thought the flexplate was warped a little because it rocked on the adapter. But after removing the flexplate, then rotating it 90 degrees it still rocked so the adapter is warped. I'm not going to worry about it.

I'm concerned about the ARP crankshaft bolts being too long. I measured the thickness of the flexplate at the crankshaft holes and compared that to the space between the face of an installed bolt that had bottomed out and crankshaft with no flexplate. It appears that the space is greater than the thickness of the flexplate. I confirmed that I had flexplate bolts instead of flywheel bolts and measured the length from face to end as 0.8 inches as specified. I'm wondering if Eagle assumed that all of their 8 bolts cranks would use flywheels and didn't drill the holes in the crank deep enough. ARP strongly states do not use washers with their bolts. I'll know more when the engine is off the stand and on the crane so I can carefully check that the bolts are not bottoming. You may want to purchase 8 of the Ford stock bolts to avoid this issue.
So all is good other than bolts?? Whats the difference in the ARP flexplate and flywheel bolts, I assumed the flywheel bolts are longer. I take the Ford OE flexplate bolts are shorter than the ARP ones??

My motor is ready to come out, should be out by the morning and to the machine shop by lunch time or by Monday at the latest
 






I'm certain you are well aware of this, but I feel like I need to mention it anyway. Better to repeat something than risk it being missed.

The 'Adapter' part concerns me for the flex plate.
Please check your clearances to ensure that the torque converter wont put pressure on the thrust bearing when the trans is bolted to the motor (Torque converter installed, of course).

The last thing you need is for there to be no extra spacing for the torque converter to 'float' slightly. Even the slightest pressure on the crank thrust bearing and a lot of very bad things happen very quickly.
 






I'm certain you are well aware of this, but I feel like I need to mention it anyway. Better to repeat something than risk it being missed.

The 'Adapter' part concerns me for the flex plate.
Please check your clearances to ensure that the torque converter wont put pressure on the thrust bearing when the trans is bolted to the motor (Torque converter installed, of course).

The last thing you need is for there to be no extra spacing for the torque converter to 'float' slightly. Even the slightest pressure on the crank thrust bearing and a lot of very bad things happen very quickly.
The adapter is standard for all 5r55s trans,its not something we are adding,dont know if you knew that or not..but yea im interested in clearances also, last thing we need is to rebuild AGAIN!!
 






The adapter is standard for all 5r55s trans,its not something we are adding,dont know if you knew that or not..but yea im interested in clearances also, last thing we need is to rebuild AGAIN!!

Dono is right, the point is, before unbolting the bell housing bolts, measure the clearance(play) that the TC has front to back.

See how far it is supposed to move with the TC bolts/nuts off. Then when you put the engine/trans back together, you can verify the same play of the TC, before securing the TC nuts. If the TC wasn't in fully, that check would catch it, and save the main thrust bearing.
 






So all is good other than bolts?? Whats the difference in the ARP flexplate and flywheel bolts, I assumed the flywheel bolts are longer. I take the Ford OE flexplate bolts are shorter than the ARP ones??

Yes, the ARP flywheel bolts are longer than the flexplate bolts because the flywheel is thicker. I don't know the length of the original flexplate bolts because I removed the dust plate to reuse without removing the flexplate. However, I know that my Hays flexplate is thicker than stock. The problem (if I actually have one) may be with my Eagle crankshaft. Are you using a Ford 8 bolt crank or an aftermarket one?
 






Yes, the ARP flywheel bolts are longer than the flexplate bolts because the flywheel is thicker. I don't know the length of the original flexplate bolts because I removed the dust plate to reuse without removing the flexplate. However, I know that my Hays flexplate is thicker than stock. The problem (if I actually have one) may be with my Eagle crankshaft. Are you using a Ford 8 bolt crank or an aftermarket one?

I have the forged 3.75 stroker eagle crank with eagle rods and diamond pistons .030 over

Where is it thicker at?? If you lay it flat on the 8 bolt holes and measure up from the ground to converter mount holes or teeth is it same as OE?? Or is just the flange that mounts to crank thicker?

I can measure the OE bolts tomorrow
 



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The torque converter/adapter is still in its original position. Even though the flexplate is thicker than stock I assume that the set back is equivalent. After setting the DOHC V8 in position I'll tighten the lower transmission to engine bolts (the easiest ones to tighten and most important for keeping things in place) and check for torque converter fore/aft movement. Unfortunately, I didn't measure it before removing the engine but the shop manual may specify the range. The crankshaft end play was specified and I checked that while assembling the engine. It should be the same after the flexplate is bolted to the adapter.
Thanks for all of the tips! I certainly don't want to go thru this engine replacement process more than once.
 






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