Mobil 1 Extended Performance vs Annual Protection

[poker4me007]

I like Pennzoil also..
Mobil also has a rebate, $17 Off Motor Oil Promotion March-May 2018 | Mobil™
Both good oils as far as I'm concerned, but watch this video, I personality like to change my oil twice a year whether it needs it or not.

 

[CDW6212R]

Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic Oil Promotion
REBATE: $10 off per (5) Quart Jug - (2) Rebate Limit Per Address

Link: Save $10 Per 5 Quarts

SLICKDEALS LINK: 5-Quart Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Synthetic Motor Oil (10W-30) $17.80 after $10 Rebate & More + Free Store Pickup

That's very good, I've bought Pennzoil many times when it was priced right. I buy a lot of oil given my work, 35k per year, and my 98 302 eats a good bit. I've moved to using the $5 per quart low end Amsoil, I think it's a little better than the popular brands.

I like Mobil 1 for almost anything, besides their oil. I won't buy it again because on a trip 1100 miles to SD, my 90 Lincoln 302 used almost a full quart of oil. I had just changed the oil to Mobil 1 before the trip, and my mother and I drove our typical 5-10mph over the speed limit. I checked the oil when we got to Sioux Falls after pressure washing the car near where we were going. The oil was transparent still, but just over the low mark. I had to go to the Autozone right there to buy two quarts of oil. I didn't buy Mobil 1 to top it off, I chose Valvoline or Castrol, my two preferences back then. The engine didn't seem to use much oil the rest of our trip, maybe just under 1/2 quart more, that's after we got home, likely about 1200 total miles from the first check. I don't know why the engine used so much oil, but I never bought Mobil 1 again.I sold that car within about a year to a friend, and he put another 100k miles on it I'd guess, before selling it last year. We never noted any other oil usage to worry about with that engine. My friend loves Castrol, he taught me about cars in the 70's to get me started.

I don't bash Mobil 1, that time I tried it last was around 2001, maybe earlier. I just choose to select one of four other brands, and have tried Rotella, and another European brand they like a lot. My 95 Crown Vic has a loud valvetrain noise under the right VC. I use thicker oil in that(10-40 or 20-50 if I find it), and change it more often(3k miles is often to me).

 

[fast_dave]

Just throwin' this out there for those who don't follow the yearly/seasonal oil sales between M-1 and Pennzoil/Shell (Note: I go back and forth between both brands - synthetic oil only spends 3,000 miles in my crankcase so it doesn't matter to me). Valvoline, M1, Pennzoil are all quality Synthetic Oils. So is Castrol, but not since it's initial introduction do I recall seeing it on sale.

Walmart.com (which usually has LOWER prices than their Brick & Mortar store on items like Motor Oil) has the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum - their tip-top grade - in (5) qt jugs for $24.97 EACH - with 2 Day Free Shipping to my door if I spend $35 TOTAL

If I order (2) Jugs = (10) Quarts for $50 SHIPPED FREE - which is the maximum quantity for the Pennzoil rebate listed in this thread ABOVE - I get $20 TOTAL back in the form of a rebate check.

$50 - $20 = $30 TOTAL = $3 Quart (and it's shipped free to my front door).

NOTE: PENNZOIL does not list Walmart as a retailer for the online rebate. BUT, as I've done for years, before purchasing, I've contacted Pennzoil over the phone/e-mail (info on rebate page) and they have honored a receipt from Walmart. You can also verify this info via the comments on the Slickdeals Thread, and by contacting Pennzoil yourself.

Hope that helps those out there that follow a budget -

 

[fast_dave]

I like Pennzoil also..
Mobil also has a rebate, $17 Off Motor Oil Promotion March-May 2018 | Mobil™
Both good oils as far as I'm concerned, but watch this video, I personality like to change my oil twice a year whether it needs it or not.

Fluids are the cheapest thing you put into your vehicle ;-)

After smart shopping & stocking up my Synthetic Oil Changes run me $23 - $25 for 5 qts Motor Oil and an Oil Filter.

I run a lil' thicker oil than suggested by FORD = 10w-30 since I'm in the PRK.
We have hot ambient temperatures and we run pretty high speed despite our potholed "freeways".

 

[Lexingtonian]

Replying to the OP. Not certain if this will be seen as helpful but thought I’d toss this in. Long story short, I don’t believe we need these designer oils as long as we follow proper change interval for the oil we’re using (as long as it’s rated/spec’ed/approved for the engine). Proper change interval is truly found by doing Oil Analysis (in post below). 6k is very safe/conservative for regular ole Mobile 1 Full Syn in my 3.5L EcoBoost.

My post on Mobile 1and efficacy here:

motor oil debate.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

The first year I bought my rig 2016 I put 19,000 miles on it. Towed 3 car from Florida (through the Appalachian Mountains), 1 car from Minnesota and another from Ohio. Did around 200 0-90mph WOT runs not including all the random hammer downs that 'occur' during everyday driving and a MI winter full of dry starts at -15F to 25F all on the same oil and filter. It consumed less than 2 quarts in that time. Some of it didn't burn up but leaked out of the rear main when WOT'ing up a mountain, towing 5,000lbs or not. When the original water pump blew out on my second tow trip, I had to have a garage do it because I was 1,000 miles away from home. When it came time to fill the coolant up by letting the engine idle up to temp, the old grease monkey who fixed it said, verbatim: "This is the quietest running 302 I think I've ever heard." I also put nanooil in with the amsoil.

Last year 2017 up to now I haven't put 7,000 on the oil yet. At this point I plan on changing and inspection the filter and if it looks okay put a fresh one on, top it off and run it another year. No worries, no cares and more money and time for me.

I washed my hands of the "motor oil debate" thread because it started turning into every other uninformed public discussion on motor oil that ever has been since the days of AOL. Same knee-jerk responses and uniformed thinking. 5th gen owners are more than welcome to run $20 Quicklube conventional oil changes in their turbo engines or go 10,000 miles before there first oil change. All the fewer "Poor-Mans-Land-Rovers" I'll have to look at on the road 15 years from now.

 

[Lexingtonian]

The first year I bought my rig 2016 I put 19,000 miles on it. Towed 3 car from Florida (through the Appalachian Mountains), 1 car from Minnesota and another from Ohio. Did around 200 0-90mph WOT runs not including all the random hammer downs that 'occur' during everyday driving and a MI winter full of dry starts at -15F to 25F all on the same oil and filter. It consumed less than 2 quarts in that time. Some of it didn't burn up but leaked out of the rear main when WOT'ing up a mountain, towing 5,000lbs or not. When the original water pump blew out on my second tow trip, I had to have a garage do it because I was 1,000 miles away from home. When it came time to fill the coolant up by letting the engine idle up to temp, the old grease monkey who fixed it said, verbatim: "This is the quietest running 302 I think I've ever heard." I also put nanooil in with the amsoil.

Last year 2017 up to now I haven't put 7,000 on the oil yet. At this point I plan on changing and inspection the filter and if it looks okay put a fresh one on, top it off and run it another year. No worries, no cares and more money and time for me.

I washed my hands of the "motor oil debate" thread because it started turning into every other uninformed public discussion on motor oil that ever has been since the days of AOL. Same knee-jerk responses and uniformed thinking. 5th gen owners are more than welcome to run $20 Quicklube conventional oil changes in their turbo engines or go 10,000 miles before there first oil change. All the fewer "Poor-Mans-Land-Rovers" I'll have to look at on the road 15 years from now.

Kinda feel like your response is on account of my pointing to that thread. When in fact I was not. I was pointing to and had linked directly to _my_ post which included a very well written link to an article on oil from an *actual* authority and a 3 oil analysis results on my personal vehicle on Mobile 1 (the OP’s curiosity) for reference. ...instead of retyping/linking the pdf’s. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Like you I unwatched that thread due to typical adversarial dbaggery and unhelpfulness.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Lookin' good and very informative!

Sorry bud, I forgot who you were in that thread and thought someone was trying to suck me back into the dead end debate.

I don't know what constitute an *actual* authority but without giving my resume out, I can assure you my authority is good enough for me.

Nanolub is worth looking into if want to effectively lower wear which would extend change intervals even longer. Dimple magnetic drain plugs are nice to have too.

I forget to mention I bought 7 gallons of 0w-30 Amsoil SSO and 4 oil filters for $150 from a racer years ago which helps bring down the lifetime average cost of maintenance. Always keep your eyes peeled for a deal!

 

[CDW6212R]

The oils made today are far better than what they made 20+ years ago. The standards listed on the bottles, they meet the requirements of all of today's cars. So picking an oil isn't as critical as it used to be. But the high stress of turbochargers, and direct injection technology, they push the limits of oil more than traditional engines. I would be much more careful about extending oil change intervals, for any engine with a turbo, direct injection etc. Those I would definitely do oil analysis before going over 5k miles, regardless of the recommended intervals.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Yessir.

On a turbo, the bearings need all the cooling and clean lubrication they can get due to the extreme heat not to mention the increased compression ratio that comes with boosted engines put more force on the rings against the cylinder walls.

 

[Lexingtonian]

Lookin' good and very informative!

Sorry bud, I forgot who you were in that thread and thought someone was trying to suck me back into the dead end debate.

I don't know what constitute an *actual* authority but without giving my resume out, I can assure you my authority is good enough for me.

Nanolub is worth looking into if want to effectively lower wear which would extend change intervals even longer. Dimple magnetic drain plugs are nice to have too.

I forget to mention I bought 7 gallons of 0w-30 Amsoil SSO and 4 oil filters for $150 from a racer years ago which helps bring down the lifetime average cost of maintenance. Always keep your eyes peeled for a deal!

Understood. *actual* was intended to only denote a credible source versus opinion, not point at any particular person. Cheers!

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Always keep your eyes peeled for a deal!

Anyone from SanDog here?

Amsoil Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF

This is a deal:

Amsoil dual oilfilter remote mount

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve used the extended interval oil exclusively on my previous Mounty. Changed it once a year around my birthday. Usually between 18-22,000. I had an oil analysis done since it was free. At the year mark it was marginal. None of the values were on the red zones. I changed the filter, and added a quart of oil halfway through. I had Zero issues with that motor, after about 7 years of the annual changes. 220k, zero startup smoke or smell, zero leaks, no valvetrain noise.

On the new Mounty I’m changing it at 6-7k with whatever synthetic is cheaper. I saw the annual protection, and was thinking of going back. Maybe I’ll do my regular cycle, and get an analysis done, and then do one after a year of the annual and see how much worse it is.

 

[CDW6212R]

I’ve used the extended interval oil exclusively on my previous Mounty. Changed it once a year around my birthday. Usually between 18-22,000. I had an oil analysis done since it was free. At the year mark it was marginal. None of the values were on the red zones. I changed the filter, and added a quart of oil halfway through. I had Zero issues with that motor, after about 7 years of the annual changes. 220k, zero startup smoke or smell, zero leaks, no valvetrain noise.

On the new Mounty I’m changing it at 6-7k with whatever synthetic is cheaper. I saw the annual protection, and was thinking of going back. Maybe I’ll do my regular cycle, and get an analysis done, and then do one after a year of the annual and see how much worse it is.

That would be a great comparison. An oil analysis from two types if oil change methods, that would say a lot more than various opinions. I've had an oil analysis done about three times, but that was in the mid 90's, and before many synthetics were popular. I only learned that my oil and engine was in fine condition, I didn't change methods and retest.

I have my 99 work truck on jack stands for rebuilding trans,suspension, brakes etc. Along the way, I'm going to install two external oil filters. The first will just be a bigger normal flow to add capacity(to last a year better). The other will be a bypass filter, a special type not for full flow, it's only supposed to see a small percentage(run in parallel or with a restrictor(about .075")). That bypass filter cleans particles down to 2-3 microns, instead of common filter's 15-20 etc. Those are what all semi's use, that's how they go 400k+ miles between rebuilds, the oil is much cleaner. Brand new oil has particles in it larger than 3 microns. I could test the oil after six months or a year from that, but this SOHC 4.0 engine is untested prior. I don't know what an oil analysis would show, besides levels of new wear.

 

[fast_dave]

Lexingtonian

You probably know this, but I'll throw it out there for anyone who doesn't know.

What you need to watch out for in the 3.5 Ecoboost Explorer Sport Application is your coolant level & coolant condition - specifically, any leaks from the INTERNAL water pump design that can quickly and without warning kill your 3.5 Ecoboost engine.

The F-150 has the re-designed 3.5 Ecoboost with an EXTERNAL water pump to correct that issue.

 

[Lexingtonian]

For sure. Very aware. Thank you for sharing though! I bought the 8yr/150K Extended Care ESP just for that reason.