Best approach to replacing front suspension parts

[3xowner]

looking to service original shocks, lower ball joints, upper control arms (since it seems to do so rather than replacing upper ball joints). I just replaced the stabilizer links as a bushing was destroyed.

Tie rods seem ok.

This is a rear wheel drive.

So in doing all 3, what is better to do first, second, last?
Any sense in attempting to do upper ball joint vs the control arms with ball joint?

 

[swshawaii]

1995-01 OE upper control arm ball joints are NOT replaceable, the complete arm must be replaced. Regarding the passenger side UCA, some are a two piece design that allows you to replace the ball joint and retain the bushing bracket. Benefit of the two piece is caster split adjustment. Most opt to replace with the stronger one piece design that includes new bushings. Regardless, alignment must be checked when replacing using either, and often camber kits are needed when using the one piece UCA. Replacing upper control arms, outer, and inner tie rods requires alignment. Lower ball joints, sway bar links, and shocks do not. Since lower ball joints are load bearing. and could potentially be a safety issue, I would replace them first. Follow with the UCA's and alignment, then shocks.

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/did-you-know/english/DYK10_106_En.pdf?download=1

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[koda2000]

OE upper control arms must be replaced. The passenger side is a snap, as it's a 2 piece design. As long as your CA bushings are okay, you just change the outer piece. The driver's side is a wrestling match to change (little room to work and stuff in the way) but it's doable. Take your time and be patient. At times it will seem like there's no way the driver's side UCA bolts will come out, but they will with enough persistence. The lower BJ's are easy to change. I just use my BFH to remove/install the lowers (along with my floor jack and a short piece appropriate sized pipe, but you can use the BJ press tool. If your lower control arm BJ holes are sloppy and worn too large, they make replacement BJ's that are a hair larger in diameter.

To make the job easier, I remove my steering knuckles to give myself plenty of room to work.

 

[puzzaa]

I would say to replace the lower Ball joints first like mentioned. For me, they were a pain because I mistakenly bought the ones larger in size for the diameter like Koda mentioned. I tried the jack method but it just wouldn't go on. I had to rent a BJ press from Harbor freight I think which made it a breeze. If you would like you can replace the whole lower control arm which some of them come with the ball joint installed.

For the upper, I don't think I have seen just the upper ball joint sold. I bought the whole upper control arm which came with it. The bolts were a struggle but they came off after some patience. Also, I cant remember if it is on both sides, but there is a weighted washer on one of the bolts that has to be in the exact position it came off with. Obviously that is going to be hard to do, so get it as close as possible then have it aligned (i got it pretty far off so my alignment was shot, and so was my gas mileage and tires wear pattern

Shocks are the easiest I think. Spray the bolts with WD40, or rust penetrating spray and they should come off, especially if they are shot. just squeeze them and they will stay squeezed and wont open back up (mine were rusted through haha).

 

[swshawaii]

The driver's side is a wrestling match to change (little room to work and stuff in the way) but it's doable. Take your time and be patient. At times it will seem like there's no way the driver's side UCA bolts will come out, but they will with enough persistence.

For the upper, I don't think I have seen just the upper ball joint sold. I bought the whole upper control arm which came with it. The bolts were a struggle but they came off after some patience. Also, I cant remember if it is on both sides, but there is a weighted washer on one of the bolts that has to be in the exact position it came off with. Obviously that is going to be hard to do, so get it as close as possible then have it aligned (i got it pretty far off so my alignment was shot, and so was my gas mileage and tires wear pattern.

VERY good point guys. By far the most frustrating and PITA part is removing the driver side rear UCA bolt. I needed to take several frustration breaks by walking away and searching EF for tips. One is detaching the hard line clips from the frame. Second is pushing the control arm all the way inboard on the slotted bracket to get added clearance, and use strong cord to tie up the hard lines if you're alone. puzzaa's suggestion of marking the camber washers in their original positions is a good one to get it close enough to drive to an alignment shop. Many make the mistake of continuing to drive without alignment, and ruining front tires in a very short time.

 

[3xowner]

thanks to all, some really good points and give me a few things to think about.

Funny, now going back through many videos online, it seems everyone wants to only show the right UCA outer half being replaced.... still no video for the left one

I guess in planning if I do this, I can either do this all at once (just find the best total process) or stage in it a few jobs. I think I am leaning towards tackling it all at once since I am doing this in my home garage vs easier if at a real repair shop on a real lift. All ball joints have their covers split and tie rods are not torn and seem tight (as far as I can tell now).

Please let me know if the below is correct or if missing anything. I still have not got a good look to see how either sides UCA bushings are. I guess I just need to judge the right side ones in all reality.

So I am thinking best to start low on the knuckle and remove rotor/ caliper, the tie rod, lower ball joint than free up the upper ball joint.
Now the knuckle can be freed out of way (rwd so no front axle shafts).
Check Tie Rods...
make not of bolts and washers on UCA and then remove UCA (left side and the 1/2 on right side)
replace the shock
replace lower ball joint
install new upper control arms (let one piece, right outer half)
reinstall knuckle on new ball joints
wrap up with resecuring tie rod, rotor/caliper.


THANKS !

 

[koda2000]

The below link and photos (though not specifically about upper control arm replacement) may give you an idea on how to replace the left one-piece upper control arm.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...cing-camber-caster-bolts.252389/#post-2268137

 

[bigred4x4]

If I were you I'd buy a front end rebuild package and do it all at once so you can just forget about all that for awhile. But that's completely your call. Buy once cry once and get the good stuff.

 

[Turdle]

^^^this, plus loaded lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints already installed. Motocraft brand aren't real expensive considering.

 

[bigred4x4]

^^^this, plus loaded lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints already installed. Motocraft brand aren't real expensive considering.

Yes I tried recently too just replace my lower bushing ended up just buying the complete arms and my experience with motor craft has been nothing but positive I mean isn't it weird how the original parts last so long and you find yourself replacing after market every time you turn around Moog is good suspension brand to , also I just tried mevotech x factor premium lower arms I wouldn't use there original grade stuff but the xfactor carries a lifetime warranty the ball joints are pretty much identical to there terrain tough line there bushings look pretty much the same as the Moog problem solvers I ordered and the balljoints are greaseable with a relief hole so you don't blow the boot at half the price as motorcraft I thought it was worth a shot and I'm happy so far.

 

[Jim Faulkner]

Just another thing to consider - alignment. Most front suspension work requires an alignment afterwards. Around here an alignment runs about $100 at the shop close to my house, so if I were to stage my front suspension work in 3-4 stages that's 200-300 more bucks to shell out. When I worked on my Camry and my daughter's CR-V I just piled up the cash to swap out control arms, OTRs, LBJs, shocks, etc. Then did one alignment when done. If your budget and time allows, saves you money in the long run. Cash flow, all about the cash flow.

 

[3xowner]

well if i do the lower ball joints and shocks first, it gives me a better view to judge the upper control arm bushings and tie rods.... wont have to do alignment until those latter ones would be serviced.

i tried to look at the Up n Low CA bushings with wheels on and as best I can see, they are still intact. I live in a mild to hot southern area so my undercarriage is still in great shape for being 17 years old. Only seen CA ski resort snow maybe 10 days total in its life.

I watched a video of the lower CA .... seems those toresion bars would be a P.I.T.A.

 

[bigred4x4]

Depends, my t bars came out with no issue what so ever. My idea lately is to do everything all at once might be ,$ and a PITA but once it's all done you won't have to do anything but drive.(hopefully) for a good while. Instead of seemingly non stop problems that you're constantly fixing no matter what vehicle you drive at some point a lot of things start to go so doing a once all in my opinion it's better than a constant battle then again it's up to you for example my lower ball joints were replaced by the dealer 9 years ago and still in good shape but..... For how much longer instead of the bushings I ended up replacing the whole complete arm . Like when i rebuilt my engine it ran great before I bent a rod because of a hydro lock but why just pull the motor and replace a rod... for an extra few hundred I could do rings, bearing, oil pump, gaskets, cleaning, lapping, timing chain, etc and put way more capable miles on it before something else goes astray and I'm back to spuare one just sitting uselessly on Jack stands and waiting on parts etc. But I have prolly 250k miles and lifted and wheel it so really that's my "opinion", it really boils down to your best judgement because nobody knows your truck and your driving habits, etc better than you do
Anyway good luck but with what mentioned earlier that I meant to touch on is do it all at once and save yourself an alignment charge Everytime you get into something else up there with age (in any vehicle) things tend to go south in sequence and with a quickness.

 

[3xowner]

So an update. I am finally starting all the big work this weekend. I quickly knocked out the shocks, just because, and to get in and PB blast everything. my shocks were all fairly weak, not blown nor leaking. I've got all the parts (and tools via rental from autozone) and will be doing Upper control arms (right just 1/2), lower ball joints, rotors, pads, bearings and seals. I practiced last week at the local junk yard over the drivers side and some on passenger side. I picked up a few splash guard tabs and some other small spare parts, so kinda worth the time. Hopefully this is a job I can wrap up in 10 hours, being meticulous of course. Using Motorcraft parts for the majority of the entire job, I just dont have the "tolerance" for many after market parts ... lol.

I think the only concerns I have once I start are:
1- Since I dont want to upset my tie rod ends as they seem nice and tight, how to remove the outer tie rod end from knuckle better than I did in the junk yard? I damaged that one to quickly get it out with a removal tool (fork).
2 - making sure that the knuckle in within the proper tolerance limit of .032 inch for the upper BJ stem. I have seen a video where the upper knuckle well was spread out witha wedge... seems that is a no, no. I feel that my current suspension is in great enviornmental shape, i.e no rust soaked in pb blast, etc. hopefully that upper joint comes out without much effort.
3- getting the fuel lines out of the way for the upper, rear bolt. In the junk yard i was able to easily unclip them from frame but I really manhandled them out of the way. On mine, i will take a little softer hand to these.

 

[swshawaii]

Sounds like you've researched your front end rebuild thoroughly, and are on the right path. Only suggestions I'll offer are regarding TRE and lower ball joint removal from the spindle. Since you are replacing originals, fear of damage is not an issue. Support the suspension using jack stands under the forward facing lower control arm "hooks". Soak with penetrant first, then remove the cotter pins and thread the castle nuts upside down and even with the bottom of the stud threads. Follow by hitting the nuts with a BFH to remove them from the tapered seats. When they "pop" and release you'll know. Good point from Jim Faulkner, complete all suspension and steering parts work at once so you only pay for one alignment. You may, or may not need to install camber kits to get the front alignment into factory spec. GL

 

[koda2000]

I like to have room to work, so I remove the knuckles completely and get them out of my way. To release the outer tie rod ends w/out damaging them (or their boots) I either use a 2-jaw puller and a hammer or take a spare castle nut and install it upside down on the tie rod end, screwed on until it's even with the top of the threads, then give it a whack with my BHF and they typically pop loose. Either way works. Tip: Release the tie rod end first.

For the lower ball joints I find a pickle fork works best, but in the past I've also used a 2-jaw puller and hammer, but the pickle fork is much easier.

 

[3xowner]

asking for some good, quick advice..... as I currently am bring the right side back up, installing parts.

I noticed that my replacement lower ball joint is a little different than the OE. the area that concerns me is the part of the part that is the largest diameter. this lip is to be under the control arm, probably butt up against it. the new diameter is 2.00 inches. the one I removed was 2.60 inches.

the new part number is F57Z-3V050-BB or MCS104222
Now I look again at rock auto and see that there was another part MCF2233, #BL5Z3050A, MCSOE1 with stated it was "w/ Standard Duty Torsion Bar Suspension". That lip appears to be what I took off.

I guess when i ordered these, i was thinking i wanted that grease fitting as a kit. the smaller lip one had the zerk, boot, that you had to install, much like i see in many videos. the larger lip one had the boot already installed.

does this make a difference ? should I get that larger lipped ball joint ?

 

[swshawaii]

Don't believe the smaller flange on the replacement would be an issue as long as the ball joint presses ALL the way in with
the snap ring installed. If the ball joint fits loose in the hole after pressing into the LCA, Moog makes an oversize K8695T006.

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/problemsolver/english/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf

EDIT- Good info Phil, we were typing at the same time. Hey, can you read this? LOL

 

[koda2000]

As long as there's enough of a lip to prevent the BJ from being pushed through the hole in the LCA I dont believe that the diameter difference matters. The snap ring that goes on the top keeps it from pulling out from that direction and the steering knuckle, once attached, would prevent the BJ from going through from the bottom even if it failed. IDK why there should be a difference in lip diameter. I've changed a bunch of these lower ball joints and never paid much attention to the lip. I usually use Moog Problem Solver suspension parts, but I have used less expensive other brands (like QuickSteer) w/out encountering any problems.

 

[3xowner]

The dealer says that the only part number he had seen for my ball joint was 3050A, which I take then is that MCF2233, #BL5Z3050A, MCSOE1. looks like both are 1.75 in diameter for the pressing area.

Since the under control arm flange lip is larger as the original I am going to buy those and return the one unused one 3V050, or F57Z-3V050-BB or MCS104222. I just care to feel more comfortable on this by getting a close to orginal as possible. Also I guess I dont care too much on the zerk difference. The 3050a appears to lack it but I am only trying to get another 50k out of the SUV so doubt I will need to service it again.

Freaking hate all these aka part numbers.

BTW, it has been months since I used Ford Parts website... what happened to all the illustrations?