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Cracked heads between valves

rasouth

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 29, 2015
Messages
345
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City, State
Riverside, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Explorer XLT 4.0 OHV
This is kind of a follow up on my post of "water in the cylinder"...
'96 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, loosing coolant, low compression on number 2 cylinder. Pulled head off and noticed discoloration around cylinder edge and on gasket. Gasket was not cracked or torn that I could see but I noticed a tiny crack between valves. I laid head upside down and poured some gas into each valve depression and waited to see if any leaked out through the valve seats. After about an hour I checked and very little, if any, had leaked out. Valves show no signs of burning or discoloration, seem to seat good.
This is not my daily driver, drive less that 100 miles a month, short trips to and from store, starts and idles fine, just passed smog test, no error codes. Question is...Can I get away with just replacing head gasket? I know I should replace heads but If they are not warped can I get away with just a new gasket for now?
 



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Sorry to hear about your cracked head.There maybe some sealants that may fix it, IDK
If it were me I would try and get another head.
That crack in your head probably only gets bigger as it the engine warms up. JMHO
 












I'm with Pete and shucker1.

But take your time and carefully and reasonably think about the value and condition of your car and how long you plan and how long you could realistically expect to drive it If you'd fix it.
Think about what other repairs you expect to come up on your car in the near future, etc.
And seriously put plenty of thought into this following question:
"WHY did the cylinder head crack in the first place?"
What caused it, did the engine overheat? Is there a problem with cooling the engine such as with the radiator, pump, leaks...?

Is it supposed to be a long term fix?
- Then get a "new" or rather tested or untested used head, if the car is really worth it.

Do you just want to drive the car a few more weeks or month and then scrap it and get something else?
- Then you might as well attempt do an "insane" Russian "Cober" style repair and just try to seal it off with the best stuff you can find, "hammer" it all back together and drive it carefully and drive it GENTLY until it eventually "blows up" on you.
Aside from that, if the fix doesn't really work, then - if really need be - it could potentially also run another while on just five cylinders. 6 is more than plenty anyways.You could then consider just shutting the fuel injectors on the affected cylinder off, possibly also slightly loosen the spark plug so it doesn't fully seal anymore ((In order to avoid pressure building up in the cylinder. But if you do, make sure you really have no fuel injecting into the cylinder anymore then! Else you could create a fuel leak in the engine compartment.)). And then "ignore" but monitor and stay aware of all the associated error codes popping up. And then just hope for the best until you have enough money to get something else. Now don't get me wrong, this here is of course NOT a recommendation and certainly NOT at all an instruction, it's merely just stating something of a cheap and desperate last means type of alternative to be aware of, when you make your decision.

Both of these two general choices aren't necessarily "wrong" or really truly "better" than the other depending on the condition and of course the financial and (probably more important) the emotional value of the rest of the car.

But I certainly suggest NOT to try fixing the crack in the head for cheap and at the same time expecting it to end up being a successful longer term repair.
Because it most certainly WILL go bad and probably rather sooner than later and it will then most certainly also cause all sorts of other awfully expensive additional damage when it does.
(If you have valve seats affected by the crack running in there then the affected valves for example could likely be damaged already.)
And by the way, any really "serious" professional type of test after any attempted kind of fix would have to be under pressure anyways. But your "leak test" of course isn't bad for a start and a great cheap quick DIY test.


I had a similar crack on a cylinder head of an old French 4 cyl. Renault diesel engine once but between two cylinders.
But that car wouldn't pass the soon upcoming German and very tough safety and emissions tests without a bunch of other costly repairs including a new radiator, exhaust pipes and muffler, break rotors etc....
So I decided... screw it!

I went ahead, took the "best" and only glue I could find in my cabinet that I hoped would penetrate deep into the crack to seal it off.
So I took this little tube of super glue (not exactly a very good and appropriate glue for this actually), just glued the crack back "together" and bolted the cylinder head back on. Then I also epoxied the leak in the radiator that had initially caused the engine to overheat and to ultimately crack and then I drove the car gently and less often for a little more than half a year until the technical inspections were due and then went ahead and sold it for scrapping to a junkyard and got a little over $50 for it. So I thanked the car and bought a six pack of beer and mourned that beloved cute little red piece of junk that carried me through so many semesters at University.

But despite all surprising success of this cheap and awful fix.
Of course that was NOT the proper way to do it at all! :)
 






A crack between the valve seats is very common on the 4.0L OHV engine. While it may not show a leak buy pouring gas in the combustion chamber, once the head gets hot and with 160 'ish PSI of compression pressing on the crack it will leak. Sealants don't work well on this kind of leak. I wouldn't reinstall a cracked head an hope for the best. While it's apart I'd replace the head with a new one. I might consider doing the other head too.
 






I dislike the idea of removing the left head. There does not seem to be anything wrong with that side. There is A/C bracket, power steering, egr and everything else attached to that side... That being said, I know the best way is to replace both heads. I have heard that different heads may have different compression ratios and it would be best to replace both heads at the same time, BUT... I've got registration coming up and insurance due and not a whole lot of money to spare...
I was wondering... I was looking on RockAuto and they have heads ready to install; new valves, springs, rocker arms, etc... They are asking $226 for the head... Does anybody know if that is the price for one head or is it for both? I have looked on website for more info on the dealer but found nothing except their name, no phone number or address.
 






$226 dollars for two new assembled heads would be a total steal of a deal! $226 for one head is already very cheap if you ask me. Okay I'm still kind of used to European cars and part prices and always get a smile on my face when I find out how cheap the parts to repair the stuff on our Explorers are. When I wrote my answer I was honestly assuming it would cost around twice the price you quoted for one new assembled head. And on old cars an investment like that can easily be very questionable especially, when having to live on a limited budget, like plenty people driving around 20 year old cars doing repairs themselves more or less do.


P.S.: I just looked out of curiosity and the Rockauto website quoted me for my 1999 4.0L OHV $258 or so for one assembled head.

Dang... I might just end up driving mine another 100 years with these prices....
 






There was a guy on ebay selling a set of new complete heads for like $380 (around there). I think I posted the link in the other thread, I can't find it on ebay. I don't know the quality but his feedback looked very good. If you are this far down the rabbit hole you should replace both, since you will be keeping it for a few years.

You should also probably replace the EGR valve. The tube will likely break too and it is $50. It is a tough decision for a truck this old BUT if it is rust free I would do it. I'm not sure I would invest the money in mine because of rust.

BTW some Victor Reinz gaskets are OEM. I saw it stamped on the Ford Parts. It is afterall a German Engine. They also supply to BMW.
 






I guess after replacing the radiator a few years ago, redoing the crank with new bearings three years ago, having to rebuild the transfer case, replacing the intake manifold gasket due to a leak... the car is not in bad shape. A few nicks, dings and a few rust spots on the roof... It was just a matter of time before I had to replace the heads. About the only thing not done yet is the rings, (knock on wood). I know deep down what should be done but because of lack of funds, upcoming bills and, of course, Fourth of July vacation, I was looking for an inexpensive temporary fix.
 






I agree with those who said they would no time reassemble a motor with a cracked head. The money you spend reassembling it ( and your time) would almost surely be thrown away.
 






RockAuto does have a head that is bare bones. I would have to transfer all valves and springs over...Not much of a problem. Do you think old valves would seat good in new head? They also have a gasket set that includes all upper gaskets, exhaust and intake and valve seals. And it says it is the same casting as mine...95TM $135 for new bare head.
I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and get a new head.
 






I would get the head complete or you are going to have to lap the valves back in or end up with sealing problems...
 






RockAuto does have a head that is bare bones. I would have to transfer all valves and springs over...Not much of a problem. Do you think old valves would seat good in new head? They also have a gasket set that includes all upper gaskets, exhaust and intake and valve seals. And it says it is the same casting as mine...95TM $135 for new bare head.
I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and get a new head.

Not without resurfacing the valves and lapping them in.
 






I have lapped valves before, not a big problem, just time consuming. I have the different grits and tools to do it. The old valves I have looked at seem straight and clean, except a little discoloration on the valves in the cracked area. No pitting I can see with a strong magnifying glass.
 






Unless your on a tight budget I would buy the head complete. Its not worth the headache of cleaning, refreshing and reassembly of old parts in a new head when there's a chance you'll find all exhaust valves pitted on the seats.
 






Not to mention are your current valve stems worn down to below specification?
 












Thanks for that article. It was very informative. I will probably go with the bare bones heads and lap the valves. I have not seen any pitting, warping or too much wear on valves. I will measure rods and valve length to be sure and go from there.
 






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