CDW6212R | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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CDW6212R
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  • Hello, I'm sorry to say I never got serious with it. It's not worth it given the high wattage required, for virtually no gain.
    Hi CDW, I was re reading aldive HHO post. What did you end up doing with HHO? worth the expense? Trouble? If you did do this what was your end result for mileage?
    Thanks
    Robert
    Have you/jcr24us04 checked the fuel pressure yet? Also have there been any CEL codes, like a 0171 which is a lean condition?
    hey there i have a 2000 ford explorer just change fuel pump and filter when it starts it rus but when i press gas it cuts off
    Hey Don. Do you have any idea how to remove the oil pan on the 97 mountaineer 5.0l V8 302? I can't find the room to drop it. Overhauling this truck is a pain.
    Hi Dane, you can post pictures with common URL addresses to hosting sites, like Photobucket. Copy the link and past it into your post.
    Thanks again Don. Mine is an '03 Sport Trac. Will see what the fuel pressure test reports. One guy said to do a compression test/leak down. You think that would be worth the time?
    Thanks for the reply Don. Put brand new coil on it and for a few days the miss was gone then it started to come back and has progressively gotten worse. Put it on a high dollar Snap On analyzer and during the cylinder contribution test the cylinders were all over the place with #4 being the most. Notice it most when under a load or at a stop sign. Put another brand new coil on it and no change. Mechanic gonna put a fuel pressure gage on it and see what he can see there. Maybe fuel pump? Thanks again Don, Don
    Saw your excellent posts to the timing chain rattle how-to a few years ago and wondered how long I should expect the dealer to charge me to time the chains if that is what's determined to be what's causing the miss in my new long block. I'm on my 4th long block and it has a miss in it when going up a slight incline and is under a load. Its back at the dealer now to make sure they put it all back together completely. Bought a coil in hopes that's what is causing it. It came off of the broke engine that had 265,000 miles on it. Any ides would be great. Thanks.
    Hi Don, hope your well and okay .We have excellent spring weather at the moment and we need some rain badly .Anyway ,Don what is the number of the CD changer cable for the Mach radio for the Changer I know it's not the P100 but there is another but I'm not sure what it is, just off the top of your head, can you remember ? I reckon I will need one for my set up as the one I had went with the truck sadly Cheers Mate Barry
    Hi Don ,Mate I tried to reply to our conversation but I'm having trouble with my E address .Mate if you could reply using barry.fox@bigpond.com .I'll go into to my avatar and change it .Mate With the CD changer when ever your ready .and yes the plug I'm after is the half moon plug 3 pin that fits into the back of the alternator Cheers Barry
    Hi Don, Mate it's been a while .It's Barry from Australia . How are you over there ? We are in Spring at the moment .Mate just to let you know I have changed my E Mail address it's now barry.fox@bigpond.com Don, Can direct me I need a Alternator plug with about 6" of wire .It's the 3 pin plug that connects the alternator to harness.
    Mate I remember what you said when Obama got elected as President you commented you are screwed mate seeing what has happened I tend to agree . Hope to hear from you sometime Cheers Barry
    My camshaft is a real custom billet. Jay designs cams for the application, and he set up the heads. Buying the heads and cam from him was about $2200 then, including the Crane rockers. That saved money because only one set of parts was installed. It is far better to let him do both the cam and heads. He designs the cam profile to get the most from the engine, and that requires specific springs. With his springs he can do more than if the design was for an existing OTS part. Typically engines with his cam etc, they idle better, with more vacuum, and faster rpm acceleration. The combination of the parts makes a big difference. Consult with the cam designer and pay them to do both the cam and heads complete. I think my cam was around 219/230 duration, and .580 or so lift, for about a 6000rpm shift. Each one is different, he has to know what the intake is along with the vehicle and rpms etc.
    Thanks for the info. I have read up on them from their website, they seem very knowledgeable and helpful. I am working with a local engine guy that my family/town knows and trusts very well. He has worked on my rig more than a few times so he's fairly familiar with it. He's really got all the tooling and knowledge when it comes to building engines, but he'll still let us (my younger brother and I) come in and turn wrenches so we can learn a thing or to. I've been able to put a pretty good shopping list together, my budget right now is $5,500 installed, hoping to come under that, but we'll see.

    Now I know everyone is different, and the end decision should be made be left to the professionals depending on your build, but out of curiosity size cam did you put in there?

    Thanks again for the response, I'm hoping a spot opens up in my guys engine shop and we get this thing started sometime soon, before folks on here start to think I'm just another big talker haha.
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City, State
Knoxville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Limited AWD 302
Gender
Male
Vehicle Specs
YES
Engine
228k with water pump going out, soon to be 55k 302 HO shortblock
Year
1998
Transmission
4R70W without 3rd or 4th, soon to be 6R80
Transfer Case
AWD-locked up, will rebuild
Front Axle
3.73, soon to be 3.08's with Torsen
Rear Axle
3.73 LS, soon to be 3.08's with True Trac
Tires
255/70/16
Wheels
99-01 Limited 16's, next to be 17x9's and 275/55's
Audio/Video and Navigation
Mach with RCA outputs

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Don
98 Limited"Black Coal", TW 170 heads TEA 205 ported for 337 engine.
99/93 Explorer Limited A4WD, 92 Lincoln LSC/SE/GTC, 98 AWD Mounty.
I support the Fair Tax Plan and the US Constitution.
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