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Used part, but good I have a drivers side power window motor & operating arm from a 96 3L, I believe all years are the same. Also have a window off same door, tinted.

po1443, No flow or low flow purge condition. Basically you have a restriction in the purge lines or purge control solenoid. The cannister under the air filter box has the purge flow pipe connected through a purge solenoid valve & then to a purge sensor which feeds to the intake or throttle...

The outer races that come with the rotor are left in place on my set-up. I've replaced several rotors & never yet had a problem with the new/old bearing matching, although to be technically correct bearings should be kept as matched sets. I don't really fancy my chances getting the new ones out...

Aero plugs Just for reference: Plugs on Drivers side you can get to all from the front, you'll need some extensions & a uni/joint. I take off the EGR pipe to get easier access to the rear plug #6. The Passenger side is a bit tougher, plugs 1 & 2 are really not bad at all, you can access...

Too much money! That flex pipe does break over time (about 2.5 - 3years on mine). I'd say it helps to conserve other parts of the system which might crack with the stress from the engine moving around & shaking. Would not be an expensive part, were it not for the rip off fitting charge.:(

I would try to find out why you are not getting any signals from the o2 & VSS, they are both essential for normal engine/transmission control. The catalyst monitor is performed by the PCM via the O2 sensors. What it does is monitor the waveforms of the front & rear o2 sensors during steady...

Here is the conditions for catalyst monitor entry conditions, from Ford 1996 OBD system operation summmary. Note the vehicle speed change condition only 1mph /2secs. Malfunction (CEL) takes 3 drive cycles, I hope you dont have a cat problem you say there is plenty of power! TYPICAL STEADY STATE...

Can your scantool read I/M monitors ? In a drive cycle the ECU goes through a set of tests to establish that all the engine component monitors are working normally, such as fuel system, EGR, Evap, o2 sensors etc. If one of these has failed then the p1000 code comes up as a warning. So you should...

Dont know the mountaineer, but on a A/star, problem more often than not it is the wiring harness where it exits the driver door & enters the body through the rubber boot. Pull the boot back & check for fractures in the wire harness.:cool:

You should soon get a code.,,, sounds like a multiple misfire problem. A crank sensor (CKP) could cause that problem if the magnet comes loose. To complete a drive cycle. all sensors for those particular tests must be good otherwise the cycle will not complete. Did none of the tests complete...

Probably not the cat converter. Make sure all your vehicle ground connections & battery terminal connections are good. A bad ground can cause all kinds of gremlins to surface! Also make sure you have no air or vacuum leaks on the intakes.

Sounds like you have the worst type of problem........... an intermittent like that can be very hard to catch. to me sounds like it could be fuel system related, have you checked fuel pressure? Like I mentioned previously sticky EGR valve can cause this type of problem. Might pay to replace it...

Mines in almost daily use, clocks up about 20-25,000 kms/ year at present time. Engine is 3L, 2wd, short frame, 96 XLT sport. The old girl has 310,000 kms on her & still uses no oil & only minor sensor replacements. Alternator , starter motor have been replaced. So far it's the most reliable...

Brake maintanance Nice pics & info. I lube the slide pins with synthetic brake grease . Wire brush the slide pin slots to remove any crud etc & spray with brake cleaner. Also a good idea to replace the brake fluid about every 4 years since it is hygroscopic & will pull water from the atmosphere...

To stop latch problems Another trick, drip a few drops of 3 in 1 oil or liquid wrench on the plastic pop up latch knob. It will drip down the linkage & lube the pivot joint which gets dry & stiff over time. Do this once a year before winter to ensure trouble free operation , also lube the...

The strained starting condition could be a sign of your starter motor getting weak. I had that problem about a year ago ( at 275,000 kms). Mine also was cranking at significantly lower speed, & finally would sometimes not crank at all, then a few seconds later it would crank normally, finally I...

Easy job next time. I know what you mean, however it can be overcome by cutting the hose & adding an inline hose connector or a quick disconnect, this can be done safely since the return line does not run at high pressure. I would favor an inline hose connector, since, this is a job done...

Flush the system Suck all of the old Mercon out of the PS reservoir. Remove the return hose, plug the hole in the reservoir with a rubber vacuum cap. An assistant is handy for the next step. Put a clear bottle under the return hose,start the engine & add Cheap Mercon fluid into the reservoir...