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RockAuto sells them for $23.

Do you think any fluid should smell burnt? A little common sense goes a long way. Replace it.

As I suspected. :thumbsup:

Put the truck up on ramps if you have them...otherwise improvise (safely) to get the front at an angle. This will allow the air to naturally rise to the highest point, which will then be the radiator cap. Just let it sit at idle with the heater on and the system should eventually burp...

Doing the maintenance will cost you a couple hundred bucks, tops. Put the rest into a savings account.

Check the return rad hose...does it get warm/hot? If not, then the t-stat is stuck...replace it.

Not saying it doesn't...but tell us, how low did your valance go on the hybrid prototype? Be honest, because in order to effect air flow, it would have to have gone nearly to the ground. That's the only way it's going to redirect air from under an Explorer. On my C6 Corvette, which has an air...

Wow..yeah, didn't realize shipping was so much! That's ridiculous..$75 to my zip code for a $23 piece of plastic! And it is called a valance...not a lot of use for an air dam on a vehicle so high up in the air. ;-)

Look on RockAuto for p/n 584A22

When you changed the thermostat are you sure you didn't put it back in backwards?

That was more than three years ago...the truck is probably in the junk yard by now.

Is there someplace you can get just that cap? It's one of two pieces missing on mine when I bought it and would like to get a replacement.

Seems too far forward to have access to the t/c. Have you eyeballed it to see if it's in the right spot? Seems it would be over the tranny still. I have a Sport though...so just eyeball it and see if it is over the t/c.

:rolleyes: Before you start chastising others about their education level and job choice you may want to do some spell checking and add a bit of punctuation and capitalization to your comments. Just saying. :salute: On an OHV, bank 1 sensor 1 will be the upstream sensor on the drivers side...

On my Sport you just pull off the metal grill from the top.

Yes, I do, and so do many many others. Look...don't take it personal, ok? I think Blose sucks and I would never, ever, intentionally put a Blose component (speaker/amp) in anything I ever owned. If it came in any vehicle I purchased it would be the first thing I would look at...

I've replaced the front speakers with 6.5" round Polk's and am awaiting another pair to go in the back ('98 Sport). Running off my Kenwood 6140 they sound really good up until about a volume of 28...getting distortion above that. But for $36/pair they beat the hell outta the stock 5x7's. Can't...

Correct...and my personal opinion is that Blose is probably the worst as far as sound is concerned but they have a really good marketing department. Like I said...your truck, do what you'd like.

They're referred to as "Blose" for a reason, but it's your truck, do whatever makes you happy. Just saying if I had to put Blose in, I'd rather listen to the rubber on the road. I had a Blose system in my C6 and it was the pits.

Just put 6.5" round Polk's in my Exploder...used some 3/8" plywood to make an adapter, pretty straight forward. I wouldn't waste my money on anything Bose.

Spring goes into the engine.

While 6x9's may perform exceedingly well, round speakers in the same properly dampened location will perform better.

Just ordered a pair myself for my front. I'm going to get a piece of MDF and cut it to fit in the opening the craptory speakers take up now.

Ever notice what shape every home speaker is? ;-)

So you removed a safety device from your vehicle (which, IIRC, is illegal to do) and now you want it to stop beeping at you because that's more annoying than not having an air bag to help protect you in a crash? Just trying to find the logic in doing this.