Search results

Cel on today. Code was P1445 evap surge canister..... Also thermostat is leaking.

I have a '97 with the 5 speed auto. No cel, when I downshift or accellerate hard the stumbling goes away. Did intake gaskets last year, O2 sensors, new exhaust manifold back, fuel pump+filter, water pump+rad+thermostat, it still stumbles intermittently. I've got 205/75/R15 tires on so it's at a...

For others with the same issue; the driver's door electronic lock button wouldn't work. The passenger one controlled everything without a problem, and the driver's unlock worked fine. I found the pink w/yellow stripe wire broken in the rubber sleeve between the door and the body. The lower front...

No, I didn't get any pictures. With the spindle out of the way and the upper control arm wedged up the space wasn't bad. The bushings I left alone. They are probably worn somewhat, but the toe in was perfect, the steering wheel is now centered, and the van tracks perfectly straight, so...

I just replaced these in my AWD '97. I bought a generic ball joint press kit for $120 and pickle fork 3 piece set for $30 or so. I found the inner tie rod removal easier when the steering wheel was turned toward the side being worked on. I pounded out the lower ball joint (after removing snap...

That's the same one I had. It turned out to be intake gaskets. I started a thread here about the job. It turned out to be not too bad; just time consuming. No issues since, except when you remove the hood, make sure after you put it back on to reconnect the ground wire and tighten on the stud on...

Test drive A-ok It idles properly and no cel. I doubled up with new hose clamps and now no coolant leak. One last thing tip; remove the battery for the job and the tray makes a perfect tool staging area.

Done The worst parts at the end were getting the dipstick back into the block and starting the bolts holding the egr valve to the tube. Oh, the new serpentine belt was a pain to put on too. The upper rad hose connection leaks pretty badly at the manifold end; but there was significant corrosion...

Fuel rail, injectors with new o-rings, lower intake w/new gasket, passenger side valve cover, alternator, and new t-stat in/on and torqued. It's not looking so bad now. I would do this again to save 5-8 hours of labour cost. Tools most used: 8/10/13 mm 1/4"+3/8" drive normal+deep sockets...

The gasket on the bottom of the fuel rail was "glued" on. Hopefully I didn't scratch the surfaces too badly with the scraper. According to Ford, there used to be a similar gasket used on top of the fuel rail; but now it's not used and the rubber o-rings that fit in the upper manifold grooves are...

It's all apart now; things sure are sticky after 13 years. The lower intake bolts were barely more than finger tight. Do I need 3 sets of injector o-rings (total 12), or is there a fuel rail o-ring set? Will carb clean melt the plastic upper intake?

The pictures help getting it straight in my head. Back at it today. I keep in mind the identical quote from the best 2 mechanics I've worked around; "God hates a coward, take it apart".

That's the ticket. You're the man Brooklyn.

Yep, 4 liter. The dipstick tube does pull out of the block, allowing the egr tube to be unbolted, allowing the upper intake to come out. The fuel rail is out now; one of the gaskets underneath it was torn and pulled into the opening. Is there a tool that allows one to release electrical...

Has anyone on here actually done these on an aerostar? I've taken alt. out, moved a/c over. Egr tube is being a *****; does the engine oil dipstick tube pull out of the block on the bottom, or attach another way? The mid bracket for the dipstick is over the egr tube bracket on the exhaust...

Started on the upper and lower intake gaskets today. No wonder these ****** things are cheap. What a miserable job. Anyone have any useful tidbits learned the hard way?

I run 205/70R15 tires on a 15x6 ranger wheel. Canadian tire sells steel wheels for $55cdn. Plenty of room; speedo reads 3 km/hr low at 100km/hr.

After running for 15 min or so my '97 4.0 throws this code. I have new plugs, wires, IAC valve, cleaned MAF, new cats and the O2 sensors in front and behind them. It seems to run well other than this code. Thanks.

Yes, I have to add it. Once the '97 is running right the '94 will sold.

No pictures. I'm in northern British Columbia, Canada, so it was getting dark and there was also a sleet shower that came through. I only had to put #5 cylinder plug wire underneath the intake, #4 and #6 were long enough to go over/around. That took care of the miss at higher rpm, but there is...

I did plugs today. I've got some ramps to drive up on that give enough space to get underneath and lie on some old plywood (gravel drive). Even with the tires on I got the front 2 on both sides from the wheel wells with a wobble extension and several more put together to reach. The driver's side...

I found a couple these brackets (they bolt to each other) at the wreckers today. The first one was broken and the second slightly cracked, but good enough to roll for now. Cost $40 together (I removed).

AWD front diff brace The bracket that bolts to the driver's side of my front diff is broken and ford doesn't carry such a thing anymore. Are there any aerostar cousins that have a similar set up? Anyone have this happen before?