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Thanks for the ideas, guys ... I will be looking closely at the balancer. Had one seperate on my last daily driver (non-Ford) and eat a bunch of stuff on it's way out the door. Stupid thing still ran really OK, even though it chewed up a plastic timing belt cover. "Gee, what's that...

the tensioner pulley makes sense ... I'll pop the belt off and check all the accessories without have the belt keeping everything tight. This noise is while the truck is sitting still idling and while you rev the engine without it moving, so that eliminates u-joints ... although those are on...

Hi all, I have a 98 Sport with 4.0 SOHC motor. It has 91K miles now and has just developed an odd random clattering noise. I feel like I should already know what this noise is ... seems old school, like I had a 70s-era car that did the same thing. It does not vary with engine speed, and does...

Once again, this thread and another saved the day. I fixed my driver side door a year ago ... now the passenger side lock was acting up on my 98 Sport. It was only working "halfway" ... firing each time, but not moving enough. Expecting to fix this door the same quick way, I dove into it...

Old post I know ... but thanks for posting! My 98 Sport ate two sets of standard bushings. Upgraded to Moog about a year ago. Had to pull a radical drifting manuever to avoid killing a few of us .... some oldster made a left turn in my path as I was going 60 mph ... had to pitch the Ex...

The pics were pretty worthless .... this is in such a tight area, it is unreasonable to expect to get a good shot of it. See my reply in #70 ... I think my description will get you there.

When mine was acting up, it would lock anytime you wanted it to, and it would only unlock right about 2/3rds of the time. It would be a problem to open it with the inside handle as well, but would only take a few gentle tugs to get it to move. Sometimes pulling the door in tighter or pushing it...

Three years after the post started ... wanted to say that this still has been a big help. Found the end of the spring in the bottom of the door, the rest of it inside the latch. It took two tries to finally see what this all meant. Had to take the window track out to finally see the...

found some interesting info here ... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2823293#post2823293 ... if you have not yet fixed the lock.

Cool info guys .... having problems with my 98 Sport ... you hit the button and the door lock only pops up about halfway ... looks like more of a mechanical problem than electrical. I'll have to see if I have a missing rivit. THANKS!

I am having a similar problem with my 98 Sport. Looking for answers here too.

I have a 98 explorer SOHC 4.0 and it has a very slow leak .... pretty sure it is where the water pump meets up with the block. The outside of the motor looks like it is spattered with milkshake, which is what antifreeze and motor oil look like when mixed together. At least it is on the...

That looks a lot like the hardware on my 98 Sport. The "F5..." part number translates to 1995, and the "F6..." would mean 1996.

So I am dealing with a code 430 .... cat convertor below threshold. To make sure it isn't something else, I change plugs, wires, clean the MAF, new fuel and air filters. It needed all these anyway. Plugs and wires were OEM from the assembly line. Resigning myself that I will probably need...

Dove into this past weekend and did a lot of tune-up items. The idle was getting a bit shaky. Changed the fuel filter ... took out some no-name China filter and put a Motorcraft in. Idle smoothed right out. Dumped a lot of black crud out of the old filter. Then proceeded to replace the...

New pics Here are pics after the spring swap and putting some new tires on it ... 255-70-15 Firestone Indys. And here it is with the wheels painted in graphite paint... It is finally starting to look a bit custom ... ;)

Hi all, Just wanted to follow up here ... finally got it all sorted out. My Sport did have the recall repair done prior to my getting it, so all good there. I did manage to get a clockspring out of a similar '98 at the boneyard here. Brought it home and tested all the circuits ... all...

Price drop to $50 plus $11 shipping. This is the stereo, dash insert kit, and already wired ... plug and play.

Yeah, close to $100 for shipping is what I pretty much thought. Once you get over a certain length, shipping through UPS and USPS double for the same weight. Greyhound bus shipping can be much better ... about half of UPS charges, but items have to be picked up at the terminal.

Panasonic CQ-DF2030U CD reciever. This will play a single CD, am-fm radio, 50 watt per 4 channel MOSFAT amp, removeable face, remote control, front and rear RCA jacks for external amps. This is installed into a Scosche dash kit for a 98 Explorer and has the appropriate wiring harness for...

Pair of leaf springs out of my 98 Sport with only 65,000 miles on them. $30 for the pair. I just swapped to multi-leaf rear springs to get a bit more height. These would be ideal for someone with a Sport, that has the infamous lean toward the driver side, and wants to maintain the stock...

Switched to 4 door leaf springs Just switched the monoleafs out for 4 door leaf springs. In the process, switched sides to even out the gas tank lean effect. Very nice improvement in ride and handling. Noticed right away, that stepping in, using the step bar, it was firmer ... almost didn't...

The subwoofer amp is attached to the black chambered box that the subwoofer installs into. It is hidden behind the plastic interior side panel close to the wheelwell. You have to pop the whole panel out to get a look at it. I would get away from the 1999 factory radio ... these had problems...

Rear wheel studs should be the same 4x2 or 4x4, unless someone knows something I don't (got a 4x2)... It is a tight squeeze but definitely better than popping the axle out. You need to take the caliper off and rotor and maybe back the parking brake off. When fitting the new stud in, I...

Nice write-up here ... needing to do upper ball joints, and Moog parts listing show that their ball joint won't go into the stock arm ... now I know about the one-piece arm and these upgraded adjusters. This board rocks!:thumbsup: