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this is on a 96 w/o premium audio but i think still has the factory amp

after all the installign i have done with a new head unit an amp sub and two other speakers I ran into the problem of the fact that the speakers are runnning through both the head unit's amp and the factory amp attached the the wiring harness. The aftermarket amp in back is run from the head...

honestly I am trying to heep the total project under 300$ so I am going with a jvc cd player with a built in ipod hookup that is like 160$ at best buy. 40$ for the intstall kit and free installation makes it 200. I had to buy a new rca cable and some speaker wire so as long as they dont have...

i think i figured it all out today. The stock head unit doesnt have rca outs, so basically you need to tap into the existing front and rear speaker lines and install an rca adapter thing. So I would have to do two of those for the two channels I want to run off the amp. One for the two other...

does the stock head unit even have any audio out connections? besides what connects right into what i guess would be called the wiring harness? if I can connect an rca line to the head unit I can run that right to the amp I have, but I dont want to pull the head unit without knowing this.

also how do you get to the head unit? without breaking anything...

for free, i got a sony explod 10" or so sub and two 7x9 (i think) pioneer speakers in boxes. I want to put this in my 96 because the stock speakers are weak. I wonder if its worth attaching all this to the stock head unit? Where is a good placement for the amp sub and speakers so that they...

I had to replace the fan in my explorer. I was running the engine WITHOUT reconnecting the tube that goes from the intake to the engine nor did I reconnect that other sensor (o2 sensor mabye?) so I could check out the fan as it spun. The engine sputtered and died and the check engine light...

yeh the latch was old and worn out...so i replaced it, but it is one of the hardest things i have ever done on my truck because finding, disconecting and reconnecting all the rods (door lock, inner handle, outer handle, knob) was unbelievably difficult. The guys at the ford dealership where I...

well i completely *bleeped* up my door taking out all the latching mechanisms...now im totally screwed

The drivers door on my navajo wont latch. It is from use I think. The two latches that "grab" the nader pin wont grab it. The bottom one does but the top one does not. If I push in on it when it is in the "latched" position it breaks away. So it is broken. Has anyone experienced this on an...

thanks, yeh i tackled it this weekend, just did the bottom one wasnt easy because i didnt have exactly the right tool and it took me a while to figure out which part of the pins to grind..

thanks for the help. I have to get to the junk yard for a new door panel part and have to check with the auto parts store if they have a hinge fix kit.

thanks for responding...your the only one i see...

Hey, havent posted on the site for a while...busy with school Anybody have a door that wont shut before? The drivers door on my 93 is loose, and the nader pin doesnt line up with the latching mechanism so the door wont latch. I have noticed that the door is off set and is "loose". Of course...

yeh 10 4 on that...oh well mabye their "special tools" will do the trick, i just hope it doesnt cost that much...i guess you gotta learn at some point......not to mention my brakes have always been spongy so mabye there is something they can really improve on

300!

299

well i have been bleeding the hell out of the fronts because i was told its in the front, also bled the master cylinder and the brake feel is a little better, but i figure i put all the work into it i might as wel take it to a ford dealership and let them test the whole brake system with their...

im just gonna bleeed the brakes again to make sure i got all the old stuff out...i dont think that bench bleeding is necessary because its more of a test for the master cylinder isnt it? it is logical to assume that if you bleed it dry and then put in new fluid, as long as that fluid comes from...

well because it didnt say anything about not draining it...i was told by a buddy who is a mechanic to go ahead and drain it. instead of asking me questionsa bout why i did this or that does anyone have anything constructive because i need it fixed in two days so i can drive some distance...

but if I put in new fluid then bleed the brakes, wouldnt that take the air out of the system? even though it was run dry?

damn, yeh that makes more sense than what i was told to do...ok so now what am i supposed to do...what is bench bleeding

nope not wrong, drained all the old fluid...what should that matter

yeh i do, i read in the haynes manual that if there is air in the abs sensor or the hvac part or whatever its called then you cant do it yourself because it requires some professional diagnostic tools...i dont know what to think any ideas anyone