Search results

It's a couple years old but still a good read..... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290039

The degree rating matters if you want to get it dead on...but you'll also need an alignment machine to get that accurate. A machine will tell you how many degrees out of adjustment the camber is from factory spec and then you replace the existing bushing with an appropriate one. You can get a...

You'll get a little more bottom end torque which is great for off road use, but you'll also be revving the engine a bit higher at "normal" speeds so that will drop your MPG a little.

I'd bet the newly replaced alternator is bad. You should be getting 13.5 - 14.5 volts at the battery terminal with the engine running, anything less and the alternator isn't charging the electrical system. I'd check the wiring that plugs into the alternator for continuity, but other than that I...

The D35 on the first gens uses a lot of the same components from the D44 and the ring and pinion is a reverse cut high pinion design to give it more strength. Our D35 is basically a D44 with a D35 differential section that's stronger than a "normal" D35. The 8.8 is also good for around 1300 lb...

I did a small lift like you're thinking about 2 years ago..... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290039&highlight=weezlift Check it out - should give you some ideas of how to accomplish what you're looking to do.

I'll take a crack at this one..... Let's talk about SOA and how to lift the front - suffice to say that the actual SOA is cheap....but lifting the front is anything but. I'm not going to go into detail about how to do a SOA it or parts required since you can find that from numerous sources...

Considering that you necro'ed a 4 year old thread and Totalled hasn't been on here since January....... Generally, to fit 31's you will need a small lift...usually around 1.5" - 2" to eliminate any rubbing issues. You can accomplish this in a variety of ways....do some research here. 3.73 gears...

Under the dash on the drivers side...follow the steering column down then look to the left (towards the door). It may still have the plastic cover on it though, so just pull it off.

If it's a 5-speed (M5OD) and you're somewhat mechanically inclined and can swap the transmission out with a good unit, then you may want to negotiate that price down a little bit....aim for the $450 - $600 range. If it's an automatic (A4LD) - run........very fast.......

You can usually get away with a small 1 - 2" lift that will allow you to run 31's. Body lifts are cheap, but they can cause other problems, especially with automatics. It's better to raise the suspension versus raising the body off the frame. Cheapest "suspension" lift you can do to a first gen...

Yes, the bleeder valve is above the actual line that goes to the slave cylinder. Should be able to use an 8mm socket or wrench on it.

One other thing you can try in the mean time. Bleed the brake system - your son should know how to do that. Brake fluid can accumulate water in the fluid over time and that can cause metal components to rust from the inside out if the fluid sits in the vehicle for a prolonged time. When you...

You need 3 things for a combustion engine to run. 1) Fuel 2) Spark 3) Air In your case, you're missing spark. As Arco pointed out, the ICM (Ignition Control Module) isn't a common failure - which is good because a new one is several hundred dollars. The quick and dirty spark check Arco also...

I didn't read the entire thread, so forgive me if this has already been asked: How's your catalytic convertor? Has it already been replaced in your quest to pass emissions?

It may have low miles but it's also 22 years old and rubber brake hoses and rubber seals inside brake calipers can break down over time. Without being able to see the truck, it's hard to make a 100% accurate diagnosis, but I can give some general advice. What's probably happening is that the...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Speedogear.html

The gear on the end of the cable was worn the same way as the drive gear. I wish I had saved the piece just for posterity, but I didn't. It had the same wear pattern in the center of each tooth just like what the drive gear shows in the picture. The cable itself wasn't too bad, but unless you...

Speedometer is rock solid now. Replaced it with a new gear from PATC (Part: #FRE) http://www.transmissioncenter.org/Ford_Speedometer_Gears.htm The drive gear was visibly worn. All 7 of the nylon teeth were nothing but bare nubs just barely protruding from the rest of the gear...

Just wanted to pass along a little tip I learned the hard way earlier today. My wife and I have a 94 with a 5-speed and the BW1354 electric shift case that had a wobbly speedometer ever since we bought it about 3 1/2 years ago. About 3 months ago it finally just stopped working altogether so...

Something else to consider is that 1993 was EEC-IV and the 2000 is going to be OBD-II.

There really isn't a lot that you can do to a brick to make it more aerodynamic. You've done pretty much everything you can reasonably do. Your driving habits have a bigger effect on fuel economy than anything, but if you're looking to squeeze every 1/10th of a mile out of each gallon, the next...

http://www.koat.com/news/28362925/detail.html Local link for the Texas guys to check it out.

Check the fuses and relays first. If your dad switched the polarity, the fuses may have all blown in unison to protect their respective circuits. If all the fuses are OK, check (or possibly replace) the relays and see if they're OK.

SOA with the stock Explorer spring pack can range from 4" - 6" depending on how worn out the stock pack is. Around 5" is the most common for a SOA. Add in another 1.5" - 2.5" from the F150 springs and you'd probably net a total of roughly 7" of lift on the rear. To get the front up that high to...