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Can anyone help a guy out?

Bump anyone?

Are the bolts for the flexplate on the 4.6L torque to yield or are they reusable? Also, what is the proper torque spec for them? Truck is an 03, AWD. Long story short, I've been having issues lately with the starter grinding when I try to start it. Pulled the inspection cover and there is a...

What about the steel part imp?

Just thought I'd add also, I wanted to get a new piston, but time was not on my side. I had to get it fixed by Saturday since I needed my mountaineer back and the woman was borrowing it since it was her truck with the broken part.

I figured I'd update. The local trans shop I use sold me a good used piston, cover and snap ring for $15. Couldn't go wrong with that. Installed it all and it's working great. Let's hope it lasts for a while. Thanks for the help! Much appreciated.

I haven't tried to get the end out yet. I'm gonna leave it in there to help keep contaminates out until I get the new part and time to fix it. I'll be in and out of town for the next few weeks for work so I won't have time to fix it. I will take your advice and buy a new one. As much of a PITA...

FINALLY!!! I just had to keep carefully using a hammer and punch to spin what was left in the bore back and forth to loosen it. Thanks for the advice transman. If you are ever near NW ohio I'll buy you a case of your favorite barley soda.

One other thing that's been bothering me since my last post is what caused it to break? Is my replacement (from a used trans that's taking up space in my garage) gonna break soon after?

After over 4 hours of just trying to get the damn snap ring out, I have discovered that not only does the servo look like the one in the picture, but the shaft of it is broken off. So once I get what's left of the cover out of the trans (had to break it apart to even get the last 1/3 of the snap...

Checking the pressure seems easier, but I don't have a gauge that reads high enough. The only gauge I have goes up to 100 psi, and since idle pressure goes up to 110, that seems like a bad idea haha. Looks like I'll be popping the cover off.

Is that the servo? If so, besides removing it for inspection, is there a way to point it as the problem?

Truck is an 05 explorer, v6, 4x4. Shifted perfect until the other day it randomly stopped going into 2nd and 5th gear. Rather than go into 2nd, it just keeps revving up until it goes straight to 3rd, then shifts to 4th and locks the converter. By this point the o/d light is blinking and it says...

Figured I'd post an update. I went ahead and replaced the coils when they came in, and it has been running fine ever since. We'll see when it starts getting colder if it still has a rough idle when starting it.

They were dry other than the residual water left over from hosing down the engine bay the day before. I've replaced about every external gasket on the block so leakage isn't really an issue.

Just to update from my situation, you're better off taking the whole thing out of the truck. It's bit of a PITA but less so than trying to do it still in there. I used an air hammer to get the old ones out, though careful cutting with a sawzaw or hack saw to cut a slit in the whole metal outer...

UPDATE! This will make you say "WTF?" My truck is for sure a female that is about to start menstruating based on the moodiness its been having. So saturday I had to use it to pick up a pair of jet skis I bought. About an hour drive one way. On the way there it starts its misfiring crap...

Hm, $5 for all 8 at rock auto. Is there a way I can Ohm out the coils to test them?

The springs were kinda crappy looking on most of em. Looked rusty. For the cost of new boots and springs I might as well just replace the coils too really.

I would have thought it'd be better to take out the inside of the schrader valve and use a male fitting?

What fitting do I need to temporarily hook a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail? Is there any reason while doing this I couldn't use an oil pressure gauge since that's what I have laying in the shop? I mean it just shows pressure right? The only difference would be that...

Well today I swapped the coils from one side to the other to see if the rich code followed. No luck. I also cleared the computer and capacitors using the jumper wire from the positive and negative cables. Still got the same code. I'm gonna order those same coils linked above and see if that...

Mine isn't even showing a code to point to a specific cylinder. On the 7.3 power stroke you can hook a scanner up and look at what they call a "PERDEL," which stands for percent of deceleration of the crank. You can monitor that and pinpoint a weak cylinder by seeing which one has the higher...

It does help if for nothing more than an idea, which I am open to any. I'm fairly sure that's not my problem but I will for sure look. I just replaced the plugs when I did the engine swap. Did all new gaskets (besides heads) on the engine while it was out. I'll inspect the wires to the O2...

I'll give you guys my symptoms and we'll see if you all think I'm right. For a few months now my 2003 4.6L Mountaineer has been having a hesitation at certain RPM and throttle input. It first started a few months ago, shortly after I got it back on the road after an engine swap. I know little...