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Fuel pump going bad is most common problem though it could be a lot of things. I would check fuel header pressure as well a how quickly it bleeds down.

Yes, that looks like the timing cover gasket. Looks like you cleaned it up a bit?

Timing cover (gasket) is extremely common, at the top ears. The ones I have done were leaking mostly from the passenger side ear, though both sides are prone to leaking. It is hard to see where they are leaking from but usually you can trace (by looking from underneath) the leak back up to one...

Maybe my maker was satisfied with me being mentally prepared and spared me the trouble. I do not know but I am glad it was just the heater control valve. Pulling the whole dash (and putting it back in) is just not a lot of fun. No worries though, there will be another interesting job to...

I had an engine coolant leak coming down underneath the blower / evaporator core housing and dripping on the passenger side inside the wheel well cover. I looked from underneath and all I could see was the bottom the blower / evaporator core housing had coolant dripping from it so I thought it...

Switch from 5w30 to 5w20 in the Explorer - Tech Service Bulletin At least Ford thinks it is okay to run 5w20 in this engine (though I run 5w30 in mine as well)

I know the feeling. I have a 2000 that I am thinking about getting rid of as well. The problem is, when I look for a used replacement vehicle that has the same capabilities, they just don't seem worth the price so I keep going back and repairing the 2000. What are you thinking about for a...

8 mm closed end wrench and or 8 mm socket with extension and ratchet to remove the 6 bolts connect the drive shaft to the transfer case, t30 torx bit and ratchet and extension that connect the drive shaft to the front differential. I would take a small hammer as well to tap the driveshaft loose...

From what I see, the heat came from the exhaust. I would think it could be high exhaust temperature which could be a number of things like exhaust valves not sealing or incomplete combustion and combustion in the exhaust. I guess it could be excessive back pressure as well but there should not...

get a working junkyard driver's side rack with motors and replace. They have been on ebay as well for about $100. Get the driver's side, they are not interchangeable.

www.amazon.com/Drain-Thread-Repair-Screws-Rethread/dp/B01MEFKNX4/ref=asc_df_B01MEFKNX4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312455765168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8843772068231429844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013305&hvtargid=pla-569387221862&psc=1

I spent about 4 hours on my hands and knees cleaning and vacuuming every tiny piece of glass I could find. Sorry, no bbs, no pellets, and no neighbors that would do this. Weak glass and subwoofer.

Very glad you overcame the difficulties you had as "bad kid". Not everyone is able to turn things around like you did. As far as theft being a possibility, well.,.. maybe, but, it was a $60.76 Crutcfield scratch and dent single subwoofer mounted on/in the OEM box tucked away inside the rear...

Yes, something must have been weak in the glass. I just thought it was funny. I mean I was so excited that my mountaineer now had blue tooth, apple car play and a working subwoofer, took maybe 4 or 5 hours on the receiver install, then another 3 or 4 hours in the subwoofer. I am thinking wow...

I replaced the radio/receiver with an up to date receiver that had blue tooth and apple car play. I was using a non mach radio prior (display out of course) and when I installed the new receiver, the subwoofer was cracking and gurgling so I replaced with a subwoofer and able to get it...

check the hose that runs from the front of the intake manifold to the evap cannister, under the battery. These are prone to rot and get leaks.

mmm... just curious, the 5.0 AWD you have does not have selectable 4WD. Are you planning on converting it to 4WD with a new transfer case mod?

I had two 2000 5.0s and they both had the gaskets give way causing a loud ticking noise. You should see carbon tracks (black marks) where the gasket has given way. At least in my case, I think part of the cause was some of the exhaust manifold bolts backing out, I had one that was missing...

I do not know what it is but if the transfer case is making noise that is not a good thing. Swap is not that bad, finding a good one for cheap is a little harder. I think @410Fortune had some at one time. You can do some troubleshooting like removing the front drive shaft and see how it...

I just replaced three exterior door handles and the lock and the locking / latch mechanisms (part that latches door closed) Two of the three latch mechanisms failed with the door closed and it is much easier while you have the door panel off to go ahead and replace these while you are replacing...

Yes, you will have to rig something on the side where the strap is attached with a bolt, the other side there is a gap in the frame you may could hook up the hook end of the ratchet strap directly. Junk yard is another option.

What about a simple ratchet strap? I guess there might be a question of longevity but they are cheap and it should be pretty simple to monitor over time.

good day for a test, pouring rain. I replaced the fittings on the front two and replaced the connecting soft tubing on all four, pulled it outside and letting it rain on it and will hose test as well before I put the headliner back in.

Headliner shows signs of water in leakage as there are water stains in front both sides and some in back on passenger side along the side edge all the way back. I have removed the headliner and one of the drain hoses on the front of the moon roof assembly was disconnected on the passenger side...

If it is leaking in enough air, you will get lean codes.