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I've got tire chains for every wheel, but even with that there's a limit I think. I worry about all that snow/ice tearing into the transmission cooler lines. Probably not an issue with your generation though.

Glad to see you got the main issue fixed! The wiring bundle which runs up the steering column is commonly a source of short circuits and odd problems. When you move the steering wheel up and down it bends the wires back and forth. Over time this can lead to the insulation around them wearing...

What number fuse did you pull from the interior fuse panel? You need to check for a parasitic drain on the battery. Here is a helpful link: Click

Cool! What type of leak and where was it?

Hi Jim, While I appreciate that you used the search function this is a thread from 2004 on a first generation explorer. Your vehicle is a third generation "explorer" and you will likely get better information in the sub forum for that: Link 1 Look for a thread like this perhaps: Link 2

It sounds like you had this work done by a shop right? If the brakes were working fine prior to the job and now their not then they screwed up somewhere. Take it back to the shop and have them fix it. They can't just randomly break stuff while performing jobs and not take responsibility.

That sounds good. The one I took out was 192 *F and I replaced it with a 195 *F since that was the closest I could get. It's amazing how much of a difference working heat makes. Whoa there buddy! You were never rude to us, and I'm pretty sure no one thought you were. This forum exists so...

You can become an Elite Explorer by donating $20 to the site and upload directly on the forum. Or you can join a site like Flikr and upload through it. Post #20 of this thread will help you: Link.

It should be relatively warm. You should have put in a stock temperature thermostat. Lower than stock will take forever to warm up, higher than stock will overheat the engine.

That rip is on the center console lid in the usual spot where your right elbow rests. The lid is flipped up in pic 4 & 5 to hide it. Also, the center console rear cup holders are missing. The right headlight is newer than the left. Combined with the hood tilt, right bumper scrapes, and folded...

If you haven't already, take off the passenger side splash guard and then the rigid plastic fender liner. It will give you much better access to the top bolt. The fender liner is held on by about around six to eight small fasteners.

1. Definately the thermostat as others have said. If it stays open the coolant will take forever to reach operating temperature. 2. Check your fuses. If all good its probably the instrument cluster illumination bulbs. Here's a link on getting to them: Link It's six style 194 bulbs if you...

Use the search feature and all your answers will be questioned.

You rarely hear about problems with the major components of the 5.0L V8 because it is the 302 Windsor engine that's been around since the 1960's. There is a ton of knowledge available on it from when they were used in the mustangs (pre 1995). All the major kinks were worked out along the way...

It does sound like your "mechanic" was trying to swindle you. Which is why I asked for clarification. The catalytic converters are the most expensive exhaust component there is, and generally they last the life of the vehicle. Which is why I'm suspicious when somebody nonchalantly says, "Oh gee...

I would recommend having the alternator bench tested. If it truly is new and in good condition, but tests bad while in the vehicle, then you are looking at wiring problems.

One of the vacuum lines leading to that switch is likely leaking. If you read through this thread you'll will discover how to troubleshoot it: Link

From: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306317 Please do not start duplicate threads on the same problem. The same people who read that sub forum read this sub forum. Duplicate threads dilute useful information and won't change the answer you're getting.

Visual inspection of the wires is not very reliable. Measuring the voltage drop across them while current is running through them is a better way. The higher the current the greater a chance for you to detect a voltage drop from resistance in the wire. Here's a decent link on that: Link You...

Those codes are not meant to be absolute. There are several reasons that an O2 sensor code can be set. Replacing catalytic converters on a whim will probably be a waste. I would get all of the code numbers written down first. Then research them thoroughly before buying parts.

A few more links related to your problem. You can never have too many pictures of an upcoming job I think: Link 1 Link 2 The connectors to the buttons have a lip on them which holds them in place. A small flat object will help in overcoming the lip as you slide them out. I couldn't find...

The thermostat housing gasket in that area occasionally goes bad as well. Picture of the area I'm talking about:

Welcome str8desifer, Out of curiosity, why did you decide the catalytic converter needs to be replaced?

Well done! How bad of a shape were the bearings?

The daytime running lights work by running low level voltage through the high beams I believe. If your DRL is defective you can have all kinds of other headlight issues. Fix that first and see if it stops blowing fuses. If not then you have a short circuit to track down.