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Its your transfer case. Try low range. I bet it doesn't make the noise.

Your shift rail bores are worn. Its a very common problem with these transfer cases.

I'm not convinced cleaning the rust under the coil pack does anything. I'd be more likely to believe there was a bad connection on one of the spark plug wires and moving the coil pack helped. Its a waste spark ignition system. Notice how there are only three coils on the bottom of the coil...

It sounds like you have the worn shift rail bore problem.

So my explorer was running a little rough. I maybe drive it 3K miles a year so I thought the injectors or something got dirty and tried some cleaners. Decided to pull all the spark plugs and found this. I don't remember exactly when I put these plugs in but it can't have been more than 10k...

Just something to think about if you are doing a rebuild- gears aren't cheap. Figure close to $100 per gear. Might be possible to find a junk M5R1 with the gearing you want and pull the gears if they are ok.

I'm thinking it won't work. Its not an issue of 2 vs 4 door but OHV vs SOHC. I think the bellhousings changed.

I read your post perfectly. I'm just trying to figure out what is different between first and second gen. On a second gen you don't have to pivot the engine at all to reach the top bolts with an extension. Maybe the firewalls are different between bodies. I did. In my first post.

The top two transmission bolts? I just use a couple long extensions and get them from around the back of the transmission.

No, it doesn't have to come out. At least not a second gen explorer. I'd imagine its much easier if you do take it off though.

If you look at my rebuild thread the needle bearings caused my tranny to fail. There's no way I wouldn't replace them.

My bell housing wasn't sealed to the engine either time I've pulled it? If it is indeed the rear diff cover you should follow the RTV instructions. I've had one leak when I just RTV'd it and bolted it right up. If you read the instructions it says something like get all the bolts finger...

The link that was posted to my old post was a 2001 Explorer/Mountaineer. Those are going to be exactly the same as a 99....

You won't damage it as long as you only hammer on the inner race and keep it as straight as you can. I would use a piece of pipe with a 2x4 block on top. I don't remember how I got the output shaft bearing off, its been so long. I do have one of these but that won't give you enough reach...

Yes, you'll get nothing but grinding.

I just had a moment fitting for this thread. My job recently transferred me. I had to get my F250 and my Corolla back to NC. I haven't bought a car hauler yet so I rented a tow dolly since it doesn't really matter vs a trailer on a FWD car. I get to my destination at midnight and say screw it...

You're always using the transfer case, even if you're in 2WD. The worn shift rail bores can happen to a t-case that has never been in 4WD. The wear comes from decelerating. The design of the case doesn't hold the rear output shaft all that well and over time it will push up on deceleration...

The output/main shaft are one and the same. You might as well rebuild the tranny if you swap the main shaft. Mmerlinn is incorrect also as to the output shaft being the only difference. The back half of the cases is different. You could probably swap them but you are also into rebuild...

That shaft is one piece. Nothing should spin independent of the shaft.

As I amtodd said they are very easy to rebuild. I'm just trying to think of how you could lose fourth. It is one shift fork for 3/4 and also one slider for 3/4. I'm doubting the slider would work for third and not fourth. Those "nubs" for for lack of a better word touching my thumb...

If you read through glacier's thread you will see what happened to my t-case and will happen to all 4405's. But we can tell you didn't or you wouldn't have had the questions you did in this thread. ;) Bet you a beer that shift motor does nothing for your problem.

Not the route I would have taken but ok. I have 172K miles on my original transfer case shift motor... Never done anything to it. T-case itself is a different story though.

You have to rebuild the t-case if it is indeed the shift rail bores. Look through Glacier's 4405 rebuild diary up in the stickies. I would still find the thread on cleaning the shift motor contacts and try that first. Typically you get a grinding noise when coasting if your shift rail bores...

No, that's not correct. 2 high requires the t-case to be in high. 4 high requires the transfer case to be in high. If the t-case is in neutral you get no power to the back or front wheels. You can do a brown wire mod and get 4 low and 2 low with this t-case. I actually use 2 low most of...

No, you are assuming incorrectly. Four wheel drive and hi/low are completely unrelated in this t-case. Again, there is NO "selector" for four wheel drive. The shift motor has nothing to do with four wheel drive. If you take it off, you will see the case is marked H N L. I would guess...