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I have an all aluminum radiator as I was on my 3rd plastic one. You will need custom trans lines as previously stated. Here is what I did with mine.

Remember if you pull the head that would be the best time to out in new studs for the exhaust manifold as they are prone to breaking.

I took my headlights apart and put in projectors and run a morimoto xeon bulb and ballast, I picked everything up from the retrofit source and they have been working awesome for the last year. I know they have some LED options that go into a projector housing so you wont blind oncoming traffic...

Here is how I did it. Not a hard job just time consuming.

Thats what fixed mine! The car was possessed. here is my video of the replacement.

Here is a 1995 Ranger that I picked up with a blown timing belt. Here is a playlist of all the things I did to it to get it back on the road.

Here is my self plug for my youtube channel. This is a playlist of Explorer videos that I have done, I have had a 2006 with the 4.0 v6 and Currently have a 2007 with the 4.6 v8. I am not a professional just trying to do my best to save a dollar or two in the process and share some of the...

That is good to hear, just installed mine tonight. Had to trim the rubber on the bottom and used the same fittings from the radiator but instead i did a 8an to 1/2 hard line compression fitting. Looks goood so far, i will take it on an extended test drive tomorrow.

How has the radiator held up this last year? I ordered what looks to be the same one from radiator express, just waiting on my fittings for the cooler line. I was on my third mishimoto plastic tank replacement in a year, hopefully this will fix that issue.

I have had a few little issues come up with my 06 v6 xlt but with 118000 miles the only major thing in my book is I had to have the transfer case rebuilt at the toon of $1200.00

Have you checked the rear bearings? I would say its either them or you have mud and dirt somewhere that mud and dirt shouldn't be causing the intermediate issue.

you need to replace the entire thermostat housing, they are known to leak and leave coolant in the valley of your engine. They are really easy to replace, I used a genuine motorcraft part on mine but you can find them almost anywhere.

The dealership has contacted Ford for a recommended repair, so hopefully I will hear back no later than tomorrow afternoon.

Remove the axle nut and once you separate the upper ball joint you have enough room to pull the half shaft out. No special tools needed. Sorry I don't have any pictures, once you get in there it's really straight forward.

U joints where replaced at the same time so it could be out of balance I'll have them check when it goes in today

I had to have my transfer case rebuilt last April and since then it has been back three times for leaks, first was the front input shaft seal second was the rear input shaft seal and third was the front again. On the third time I was told that they split the case again and resealed everything...

you just need to remove the top control arm at the ball joint and that will give you enough room to get the half shaft out. I had to remove mine for a bad seal, it is a really easy and straight forward process.

I couldn't find anything, I guess its going to be an always on USB charging port.

Looking for a switched hot lead in the center console area, I am wiring up a USB charging plug next to the power point but I would like it switched. if there is a wire to tap into great otherwise it will become an always on thing just like all the other power points in the car. Thanks for the...

The 06 does have tpms it is a band on the wheels and not in the valve stem.

I had one go out at 10,000 miles, I believe it was a defect and Amazon sent me a new one to replace the one that failed. going good now at 1000 miles on the new hub.

Don't do it, I did, went bad in 3 months and then they wanted me to pay return shipping and a $60.00 inspection charge to have them check them and send new ones out. I ended up replacing them with Motorcraft ones from Amazon.com at a fair price.

the frustrating part about this whole thing is yes we did catch the transfer case before it self destructed and that was good but didn't fix the initial vibration issue. The thing that fixed the issue was putting in the new universal joint (a $15 dollar part) on the front drive shaft (like Tech...

it is most likely the universal joint on the front, I just did mine to fix the same problem. Real easy to change out just takes a torx 30 for the front and 8mm for the bolts on the rear and the drive line comes right out with a little persuasion.

Uhaul has lifted the ban on the 2011 and newer explorers so you should be OK.