Search results

The original cadillac big blocks were 425, 472, and 500. They are torque monsters and are only slightly larger than a chevy 350, and I mean very slightly. These motors are known for there monster torque and hp capabilities. For the cost of a normal high performance rebuild on most engines...

You are correct, it will still produce at just about any RPM, however with it attached to a belt under the hood the RPM can be controlled using the throttle. You will not have that luxury with an electric motor. And, yes, there are other motors with higher RPM's, I was just throwing this out...

Without the flange being keyed to the York shaft, I doubt it would work. The flange would just spin on the bolt it is attached to the shaft with. I think the easiest and most cost effective is to just get a blank flange or one that is the size of the smaller diameter of the taper and have it...

Here is the link for Dodge

I am almost positive that you can buy those couplers as blanks( no center holes drilled and keyed). If so, buy a blank and have a local machine shop do the 1/4" taper for you and broach it for a keyway. It may also be possible to turn the compressor shaft to remove the taper if you already...

Look in a Graingers or McMaster Carr catalog or website and look for standard "LoveJoy" style flexible couplers. They can be had for just about any shaft diameter and allow for any slight mis-alignment between items. Or, you could just make one from solid steel stock and have he shaft...

If you have a receiver hitch, it would be easy for someone to fab a carrier that would just slip right in there. You would have the luxury of being able to remove it when not needed. Besides, we all know that the receiver hitch is useless according to u-haul :confused:

forums are here http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3

There is a material called "UHMW" that we use at work all the time. It is cheap and comes in various thicknesses. We use it a lot for areas where object have to slide over surfaces without marring the object. This stuff works great. It can be cut with just about any saw (table saw works...

tooth paste works great, also :D

I have a Jasper 4.0 in my 93 XLT, that was installed when my brother owned it. It has been approx 45,000 miles and I have had no problems with it. I do make sure to change my oil and filter every 3K. Mine has a 75K warranty on it. There are cheaper engines out there but I think Jasper is a...

LOL, Must have been at Davidsons Ford!!!! I think they probably just wanted to see what they could get out of you. I can't imagine a seat problem causing trouble with a PA inspection. I take my Ex to a guy just south of Littlestown named Dave Cook. he has always treated me great and his...

Hey Mike, I'll sure as hell give you $800 for that whole truck!!! :D Don't see you too often anymore, since I changed jobs.

I have dealt with them in the past on big ticket orders, and they may give you a discount if you ask for one. Think I got 10% last time I had an order of about $1100

I always park my Ex in reverse, and use no parking break. Been doing this with manual trannies for about 30 years with no problems.

Soooooo........ when they go bankrupt or sell out in a year or 2, what then?? :eek: :eek: j/k :thumbsup:

I have a 93 XLT and I changed mine in about 15 minutes. As he stated above it is pretty easy It's an easy job. Remove the glove box, take the 4 screws out that hold the housing, disconnect hoses at firewall, and it drops in your hand. It helps to have a 2nd person when installing the new...

I have used the rug doctor and it works great. Get the upholstery attachment with it also and do your seats. I was amazed at all the dirt that had settled on the seats over the years. Hell, they looked like new seats when I was done :bounce:

6mm is approx .240 inches, so I doubt there would be much of a difference.

I just drove the turnpike this past weekend from Gettysburg(30 miles west of York) to Belle Vernon(30 miles south of P-burgh). I made it in about 4 hours and that was considering the construction on the turnpike.

No problem..Glad to help:D

from battery or "hot" (fused) to switch then one wire from switch to #85 then #86 to ground then from battery(larger gauge for higher amps) to #30 then #87 to hot side of lamps then second wire form lights to ground(if no 2nd wire from lamps then the case of the lamp must be grounded to the...

Pin number 85 is the hot wire from your switch, #86 would be the ground. #30 would be the main hot wire from the battery and #87 would feed the lights. The lights may have 2 wires in which case the other goes to ground(or back to the battery). This will allow you to use your existing switch...

Found this pic...hope it helps

You will not use all 5 pins. Pins 85 and 86 will be the positive and negative to your coil. Pin 85 will receive power from your switch and 86 will go to ground. Pin 30(bigger amps means bigger wire) will be the main power for the driving lights from the battery( fused 0f course) and pin 87...