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Under the air filter box is a relay panel. Check the two thin relays located at the rear side. Clean the terminals of both. One controls the washers and the other has something to do with the transfer case clutch.

U-joints Have you taken the rear drive shaft out? I would be willing to bet if you pull it loose from the rear differential you will find the rear joint is dry or binding.

Use a squirt bottle and spray the plug wires during idle at night and you will see/hear the leaking spark.

It sounds to me like u-joints. As you drive it forward, or backward, slowly you will hear a rhythmic squeak, squeak, squeak,.....

I recently installed a system from Roadmaster on my Sport. It solved the sagging monospring issue the ride is very smooth. Roadmaster.com

I would be willing to bet it is a week pump. The sensors will work or not.

It sounds like the fuel is bleeding back out of the fuel lines. Hook up a pressure gauge and see what you have for fuel pressure.

When it does start, does it run normal or do you have to give it some gas to clear it like it is flooded? If it runs normal the fuel pressure regulator is good. You will have to hook a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to test the fuel pump. The fitting is on the driver's side of the intake. Off...

Spray the arm where it hinges with WD-40. It is very common for them to get sticky. You will need to move it back and forth to work it in.

It is possible the pump is weak or the fuel pressure regulator is leaking. What engine do you have?

Ok. Now that it is running, clean your battery connections and check the connections at the alternater. You will need to actually unplug the valtage regulater connecter and look at it. If all is good hook up your volt meter and start the truck. You should have about 1 volt over static voltage...

The regulator is vacuum controlled and this is why you smell it around the air box.

Most likely it is the fuel pressure regulator.

It could be weather related. The corrosion on a connection will get worse when the temp starts to drop. I would make sure the cam and crank sensor connections are clean.

Won't start or won't crank?

If it ran before it will run after. Try cycling the key on and off a few times to build up the fuel pressure in the injector rail.

You need a starter. Tapping on it with a hammer jars the brushes enough to create current flow allowing the armature to rotate. If I remember correctly your brushes are worn down.

I would run some cleaner through the fuel system and intake. Sometimes carbon build up on the valves will create a ticking noise. On older vehicles I used to poor cold water down the carb. which is tricky as you need to keep the engine running.