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Hey guys. I have a chance to grab a 01 sport trac with high km and was wondering if my 00 sport explorer engine would fit. Has anyone successfully completed such a swap before. I'm sure it will fit but I'm wondering about the pcm and the electrical.

It is a SOHC. I'll let you guys know, I'm about to do it now.

Before I start breaking bolts does anyone know if there are issues with removing the pan on a 2000 explorer sport 4wd. I got under and it looks like a piece of cake but in some posts people are taking about removing the engine and stuff.

Ex is running great recently but I got a new problem that is not critical so I thought I would investigate before it turns into a big problem. Every time I start up and pop it into reverse without warming up I will stall out. It is always corrected by starting up again and reving up a few...

I had noise issues as well on my sport, nothing like that though. I ended up repacking the CV joints in the axles shafts and got a minor home alignment and much of the noise is gone.

My Torx were super easy to take out, I was suprised I thought I was taking apart a Compaq. The problem for me was the thing was seized and needed a couple of hammers and a pry. Certainly doable for anyone. 15 minutes if everything goes as planned or a couple of hours if you run into problems.

What was your original problem with the tranny to begin with ?

Just a tip to all of you doing this. You don't have to cut the bolts, for the back just bend those lines out of the way. A large ratchet and 21mm socket fits over it fine. It needs one hard break with a leverage bar and then it goes around 1/16th each ratchet because there is no room to move...

I had this same problem, It was the ground. I think I had to file and grind all contacts for a long time. I did the same thing and hooked it to a battery to make sure it tooted. Eventually grounded it and it worked and has worked since. I make sure to pop a toot when I lock up.

geez I never seen this post before. I was going to say it looked aggressive from the first few pics until I saw the last page and now it looks like a monster.

Welcome one common problem is the OD band is broken or one of the other bands. it will give a bad code, such as slow solenoid switch or similar but the actual problem is a band if you drop the tranny cover there might be a part floating around in the pan The band is cheap $20 and maybe...

just looking at the range of motion in a U joint, it sounds right about the same as my squeak.. about 0.5 second every few seconds.. Now I'm just confused with all the shafts and joints. There are 2 shafts that move the front wheels, is this is or is it the 2 shafts under the truck. One of them...

Just one thing I have to comment on, lose that mechanic. What mech gives a generic fuel system error and doesn't tell you what's wrong. When I failed the etest in canada we got a piece of paper with the NOX , CO and HC readings .. My fail was the NOX and changing the DPFE fixed that problem by...

my drive shaft is off right as I'm waiting for the boot.. but yes I did look there already, made the sound with the drive shaft on and still makes it with the shaft off. I also did the rear end in the winter/spring, rear bearings, diff lube change so the noise should be from the front end

Remind where the U joint is again ? Is it joint on the CV shaft behind the rubber boot ?

It looks like I will have to take apart to get to the problem. Does anyone know what to look for in a bad CV shaft ? Is there any way to diagnose these with a visual ?

One thing you can do if you have wires and a battery is feed power directly to the pump harness for a second or two. It should power up right away and with a hollow tank you can hear a nice whirl. If the thing sounds slow or has no whirl or it takes a bit to wind up then you can bet the pump is...

Looking for a CD for a 2000.

I should mentioned I tried to re create squeaking when parked and it doesn't happen, so it shouldn't be the shocks or the swing arm squeaking, it is more like something that is moving

Hey guys, I got a new noise that came up this past summer. It sounds like brief little 1 second squeaks when I'm driving, almost like wet rubber on metal. First guess was shocks, but I rocked it all over and it didn't make a squeak, it only happens when I'm driving. Any thoughts on what it...

don't bother replacing the sending, you take it apart and fit the cheap $25 pump in there. been doing it for years and they work fine and its cost effective. takes 10 minutes to rebuild. actually when you buy the aftermarket you are buying a chinese piece of junk sending unit so better to keep...

Transfer case ?

This seems excessive to me. It isn't that hard to drop the tank. On my 2dr I managed to lower it enough to pull them pump out.

unless you live in the desert it is more than likely rusted. I found it too be a weak design that lets water in. It works with 2 levers that rust together and become one.. good luck, it took me a while just to chisel it apart

easy but time consuming and since you have to drain the diff you might as well do both sides. pretty much impossible without the slider hammer with the bearing pulled attachment.