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I have searched for a couple of days and can't seem to fine any info on correcting the pcm for tire size except buy a $300-400 programer. What is the most cost effective way to do this? I am getting ready to go to a 265/70-17 from the stock 16s and want to have everything in order for the switch.

Did you ever figure this out? I am getting ready to go from the stock 235/70r16 to a 265/70r17 on my 04 xlt 4wd and would like to fix the speedo.

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I have been looking at one on eBay for around $90-100 that supposedly works with the factory key fob. I just don't know if it is going to be reliable and actually work with the factory fob. Ironically enough, I have an 04 as well, lol!

So my 04 ex has the message center but does not use these buttons. It has the 4x4 buttons on one side and blank insert on the other. I was thinking of trying to get these and use them as the switches for my led bars. Has anyone ever tried this or know if it would work?

That's the problem with our ex's...there is no option to "do it the right way!" Spacers are by no means the right way and flipping the strut mount is a spacer, so if I am going to do a spacer, why not save the money if possible. It would certainly be no less "safe" if it worked.

So I ran across a forum on Suzuki's where they flip the strut mount upside down to get around a 1.5" lift for the cost of new longer bolts. Basically you press out the strut mount bolts and drill 3 new holes and run 1.5" longer bolts to remount it. I haven't had a chance to look at the way the...

Someone in this thread did 2". I don't remember who, but if you read through the thread you will find it.

One on the roof and one in the front. I want to keep everything in one place though so if/when something goes wrong, its all in one place.

That was my plan if I can't find a main switched wire, I was just trying to get away from adding more relays to keep it more compact. I haven't figured out exactly where I'm mounting it yet, so I don't know how much room I'm going to have and I will need two relays for the led bars already. It...

I am adding a mini fuse block under the dash. Half of the fuses will always have power and the other half will only have power when the switch is on. I ran the wire for the full time power, but I am having trouble finding a large switched wire. I am trying to find a good one that isn't fused so...

Here's mine I did the other day. I used krylon fusion gloss black.

My buddy and I just did the 1.5" BL on my 04 XLT yesterday! It only took us 3.5 hours from start to finish! We didn't have to remove either of the bumpers. Everything went pretty smooth, but we did have a couple small glitches. The locking oil filter wrench from Harbor Freight is a must...

I figured I would give everyone the update on this. It was the orifice tube that had clogged up. Thanks for telling me about that cloaked_chaos, I would have never figured that out! It still doesn't blow as cold as it should but at least its cool air now and I can drive it with the windows up...

Thanks for the diagram! It will be a few days before I can try this. I am going to go look at a 1998 and 2004 explorer on Mon. or Tues. and I may buy one of those! Either way, I will still be trying to fix this one, it may just be longer before I try it if I buy one of the others. I will try to...

I think I am going to try that! Do you happen to know of a good write up on replacing it?

Yeah, I had the dye in it, but when it blows out the back, it covers everything! I just happened to be watching when it blew out!

No, no wires are jumped, but the clutch seems to stay engaged.

It holds pressure, but only around 15 psi. I just replaced the evap. due to it leaking there. As far as I can tell, it is holding steady at 15 psi so there shouldn't be any leaks.

Yes, every thing was done correctly. Also, I don't know if it makes a difference, but when it blew out, it was like a greyish color almost like grease mixed in.

I had a leak and just replaced the A/C line on my 94 Explorer Sport. The A/C was blowing hot air and I assumed it was just due to no R134 in the system. I charged the system and could only get it to 25psi. When I let it run for a second, the pressure release valve on the back of the compressor...