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Hi Bill, I misspoke from memory; I did use ATF. But I think re-doing this is a good place to start, though. I'll let you know how it goes. :) Thanks again!

Thanks for your help, Bill. I had read that I shouldn't put much grease in at all, so after soaking the hubs overnight with brake cleaner and rinsing (and installing new bearings), I applied a small amount of grease to them (much less than was present before I cleaned it out). However, the hubs...

Moving. It's hard to tell if the sound is coming from the pumpkin or off to one side when I'm sitting in the cab. Is the right side outer axle the same? Just slides in to the other axle segment and zip tie the rubber boot? If so, maybe I messed up something in the auto hub.

When reassembling the front drivers side axle, is there any reason that the pumpkin needs to be opened on a Dana 35 front end? Are there clips, springs, etc that need to be locked in from the inside? Still looking for a starting point for troubleshooting the problem I listed above.

Hi all, I'd love some help diagnosing a heavy clunk sound that I get when going into or out of 4wd. This sound appeared after I did work on the front end. A bit back I did a bunch of work to the front of my 96 xlt 4.0 4wd. I replaced all the seals, u-joints, brakes, etc that I could get...

I'd bench bleed the hydraulic lines. It is largely impossible to bleed once it is installed in the truck. Super easy before installation.

Ultimately, it turned out that the alternator wasn't going to wait for me to mail order one. Pulled into a parts store and dropped in a straight replacement. Oh well. When I get the second battery wired, I'll reconsider alternators then.

So, from more reading, the higher amp alternators only state the max capability of the alternator, so a bigger alternator would only be an advantage when drawing higher current loads and would never be a disadvantage under normal use. Thinking maybe the 170 would be fine, even with the addition...

Hi all, I'm suspecting that my 130 amp alternator is failing - voltage meter drops to about 1/3 for long periods of time, occasionally bumps up, and my battery light comes on (my battery is less than 6 mos old). I saw a page at The Ranger Station that says: "1992-2005 Ford Ranger owners now...

Never mind. Found the part number (n807362s) and ordered from Ford. Thanks for looking!

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a set of the plastic pegs that are used to mount the front end of a shorty console in a Ranger. They look like shown in the picture. Thanks for looking!

That definitely seems sub-optimal. I'd pop the door panel off and see if you can get a look at what it's doing from the inside. Good luck!

The quickest, cheapest way to do this is to remove the stock lifting blocks from the back. With this method, you won't have to pay for an alignment. Then you can simply replace everything with stock shocks, etc. You'll likely want to replace the u-bolts. You can see the stock lift block...

Update on this... I had replaced this part with what was available at the auto parts store I was at - not the motorcraft one. After 3 months, it's leaking. Motorcraft part on the way.

Did some maintenance on the Ranger to include plugs and wires. Two things of note: 1. The plug wires were a pain. Seriously, I'd like to slap the engineer who decided to crowd the plug wires in there the way they did. I know the passenger side is notoriously difficult (unless removing the inner...

Thanks again for the info. I contacted a local line-x to get a quote, but never heard back. I'll try again in a bit.

Sounds like the mechanic's adjustment of the steering gear box was a bit aggressive. That adjustment isn't the best for these Rangers. Rather than "adjusting the play" I'd recommend just replacing the gear box with a rebuilt one (~$200 DIY or $400 for a shop to do it). Or maybe it got thrown...

Any indication where the smoke came from? Any loose tools around the battery? Did one of the pins bend when installing the MAF that could have caused a short?

That's the type I've been looking at and one that I've been considering. As much as I like that bumper, though, I don't think I can justify that expense. I expect that I can have a stronger, custom bumper made for that price or less and will probably go that route. Thanks for the info, guys!

Hi Scott, Thanks for the reply. I figured they must be close, but everywhere I've found says that compatibility is only from '93-'10. Perhaps this is just saying that the newer bumpers won't fit the older trucks? Thanks again.

How easy would it be to adapt a rear bumper from a first gen ranger to fit a 96? Is it just a difference in mounting brackets that makes the bumpers incompatible or was there a difference in frame width, etc? Seems the tubular style that I like was only made in the 80's. Here I thought that I...

Thanks, Scott. How is the line-x applied that it wouldn't be at risk for chipping off? Does it just spray on like paint or is there something special about it? I do like how that looks on your 93. I keep going back and forth on doing this. Guess that gives me the time to mull over all the...

Thanks, guys! I feel that I'm making progress with it. There are many things I'd like to do, but a couple of the major things are done - notably storage and suspension - and I'm pretty happy with the truck's function. I can be content for a bit and chip away at some of the small things before...

My short list now includes probably painting the fender flares and bumper moulding. I'm also strongly considering trimming my front bumper ala Tbars rig as evidenced by this piece of blue tape that my truck has been sporting for the past two weeks. :) I am also keeping an eye out for a...

Got the tire problem fixed. Set of 5 BFG 31's on steel rims. Gotta love craigslist. :)