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So i noticed some debris around the top of the cam synchronizer so i blew it out with air and then sprayed a touch of wd 40 on the top. Wiped it out. Reinstalled the sensor and started it......noise is gone..

Appreciate the fast reply. I took the cam sensor off to check it and it looks fine. The magnet is still attached etc. So i dunno. I do have a parts explorer i can take one off of to make sure

Anyone every had this? I originally thought it was a waterpump and idler pulley issue as the bearings were noisy and had play but after replacing them and the tensioner/belt i still have a squeak that goes away once I've run it for 10 min or so. I thought maybe i had an issue with the grooves on...

i used a gear puller but i put a socket on the steering column center and then butted the thread part of the puller against the socket, just be careful and try to use a socket that fits in there right. I can't remember what size socket i used for sure, i believe it might have been a 7/16, can't...

I've never done this with my vehicles but I've heard of others doing it, they glue a couple pennies on the top of the battery and the corrosion goes to the pennies before the battery posts. might be something to try, I haven't had a big issue with corrosion on my vehicles. i generally use some...

yeah plugs and wires on my to do list for the 97, I already changed the fuel filter right after i bought it because i had drain all the gas out from it sitting in a shed for 5 years and i changed the filter after pumping all the old stuff out. it runs fine but I dont' know what plugs it has in...

I dont' know for sure what the ride height on a 2wd is compared to a 4wd but I would think a 30 to 31 inch would fit. if the 31 rubbed it would only probably be on the very inner part of the wheel well by the frame. thats assuming with a 7 inch wide wheel with factory backspacing. I've never...

because of the way the frame was raised outwards and i had cut that portion out and put in a flat piece i had to weld on another plate to get it out to the end of the bushing and even then i added those 4 small plates to bring it flush to the edges of the ring. i will keep an eye on it and...

the 2nd plate that was sitting on there just wasn't welded on yet. I called it a night and i finished it earlier this afternoon. after welding the second plate on the bushing ring wasn't really tight so I welded the 4 smaller pieces on to hold the bushing in place because i didn't want to weld...

2 more.

some pics

after having it parked for months I finally got it into the garage and started working on it, I took pictures and will post them later. I ended up removing the shackle completely and cutting out the outside of the frame around the bushing etc. I put a piece of steel along the bottom of the...

if it ends up not being repairable i'll just keep it for parts for the 97 i recently picked up. or i can always find another 5.0 to swap parts from it. like i said, such a shame, runs and drives great yet, but the body is rough as hell

yes i realize its not safe to drive on the road and as of yesterday it will be parked until i figure out what to do with it, the frame forward and rear still seems to be solid and the back side of the frame where the bushing mount is still solid and welded to the channel, its just the outside of...

As the title says when i was underneath my 98 because i was changing the rear bumper to one in better shape i noticed the frame was a little thin by the shackle on the driverside and i pushed on it a little and it was soft and small chunks off leaving actual holes in the frame. Now i'm torn on...

did the duelers looks like these? might be an option. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Antares-SMT-A7-All-Terrain-Tire-LT235-75R15-C-6/50035817

I'm a big fan of cooper tires and I hear the hankooks are pretty good as well. I've run some goodyears here and there, not a bad tire if you are on a budget i bought the cheap goodyears for my 98 and for what I paid for them they handle alright and hook up pretty well in the snow, the...

i was able to find a good used adapter without the cooler, it doesn't look at all like the one piece adapter like the posted off a later model like a 99 and up this one is a 2 piece design and i lucked out and was able to just remove the stud and remove the cooler and leave the angled piece on...

yeah its strange, my 1998 has the steel pan with the oil cooler my 1997 has an aluminum pan and also the cooler. i guess they just put the coolers on until they ran out of them :D

any reason why some came with the cooler and some not? is it part of the towing package?

1998-2001 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 302 Oil Filter Adapter F87B-6884-AB F87E-6884-AB so far this is the only thing i can find. I imagine the one you posted is an updated one, but i can't find it anywhere

ok thanks. the only problem now is I'm having a hard time trying to find the mount that looks like that. I may end up having to go to the dealer.

i saw on this thread from awhile back that you posted a photo but its no longer there. 5.0L Oil cooler delete, how is it done? wondering if you still had a photo showing exactly what it looks like. thanks.

hey thanks for the reply. I would like to just eliminate the cooler all together and put on the other hose. wheres what i found using the part number for the non-cooler FORD SMALL BLOCK 90 DEGREE OIL FILTER RELOCATER. FACTORY FORD 289 302 351 5.0l For Sale - DVAutoParts and then this one...

I've been searching and searching for the seal gasket etc for the cooler and the only thing i can find is a discontinued ford part number. is there an aftermarket seal available?