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I was the first owner of this 2004 4.0L V6 AWD, and gave it to my son when he turned 16. He's still driving it, and it has served us both well. We both do our own service, and have replaced the fuel filter every 30k miles meaning that this last time is the 5th filter. The discharge side of the...

185k is a lot of miles. Since auto transmissions are a complete mystery to me I'd take it in to a tranny shop and have them make some adjustments. You should be budgeting for wheel bearing services as well, about $190 per wheel, parts only. The expected life of them is 150k.

I've been using ceramic pads. I'm sure that's the case with some, but I'm pretty good at applying correct torque, and in three stages. I went to a driving school one time and mine was the only car out of about 50 that had the correct lug nut torque. In any event, I decided to go with the...

Good video!

Yes, I believe its all one unit. The window on my drivers side door wouldn't go up (during a snow storm of course). The dealer replaced the regulator assembly for about $150- no sweat.

You'll have to track down your serpentine belt diagram. Look for a sticker under your hood somewhere. Here a bunch here. Idlers typically act on the un-ribbed side of the belt and have a smooth surface. There may be moree than one. The tensioner is usually ribbed and attached to a lever with...

I'm not positive, but its usually on the passenger side of the case, about 1/3 to 1/2 way up.

You'll need to use a fluid pump (about $10) to fill it. Fill through the inspection plug. The correct level is as much as it can hold until it drips out. Don't drive it until its full.

Very true. But the 150k mark is where I plan on replacing the wheel bearings regardless of life left on them. I've had one disintegrate on me, and it was a bit more excitement then I needed that day. I was doing 60 on a two lane, slowing down from passing a car when my rear axle shaft, wheel and...

My driving style is about saving gas, and the way to do that is to maintain momentum. Every time that you touch the brakes you have just lost momentum by turning it into heat (and brake wear). Take your foot off the gas as soon as you see the traffic light turn red, then coast to it. Same...

Wow, you got hit just right to do that at 10mph. It sheared off the aluminum upper control arm. If you got a lot of miles on it get all the moving parts replaced on both sides: control arms, wheel bearings, CV joints...

I did some research on this today and lots of this stuff is designed to last 150k miles.

The diagram says that the battery saver module is part of the GEM, pin 8. Replace the module.

Thanks, but I'm looking for even better performance. I drove 82k in my Expedition on these same roads with the original rotors and pads. The Exploder is now my son's vehicle, and he has a feather foot like I do (since we both hate buying gas), but he still warped the slotted and drilled rotors...

Interesting article. The author hasn't seen a warped disk? He attributes the pulsations to "pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces". I suppose if you are dealing with precision castings for expensive race cars, that may be the case. But I have definitely seen rotors on my...

Yeah the pads are wearing fine. Both times I have replaced rotors the pads had plenty of life left, but I changed them because I put in new rotors. I drive with a light foot and use the brakes as little as possible to save fuel, so I can normally make pads last in excess of 100k miles...

Do you have a wiring diagram? Haynes usually has pretty good ones. Check the fuse that supplies the relays, as well as continuity of the wire between. Power at the fuse? And again, check your grounds.

Education is expensive, but cheaper than ignorance. I maintained my own vehicles for years then gave it up gradually as my income increased and I no longer drove old cars. I took up the hobby again since my kids have my old cars and the economy tanked. I had idle problems on my son's 04...

I frequently travel US 421 east from the Blue Ride Parkway, which is a 8% downgrade for a good six miles or more. That and other long, fast descents from the NC High Country, and I use engine braking always. Over the years I've done it in my wife's Ford 500, my 05 V6 Mustang, my 07 Expedition...

Well its obviously not a control arm problem. I use Goodyear Assurance blades for three years now on six different vehicles, available at Costco for 8 bucks, and I've never had a problem.

They charge so much because the mechanics are trained to read the OBD then replace whatever is causing the code. I call them "remove and replace specialists". Many times something can be adjusted or cleaned and you'll get the same result.

No idea what app he has. He's loathe to spend money on apps so it probably came with a purchase code with the reader module.

Not a typo but a brain-o. ;)

The same control arm did the same thing? Is the spring gone? The blade mount should audibly click when inserted into the arm loop properly.

Check your owners manual for which relay(s) serve those motors. If its the same relay, remove it, clean the contacts, check the contacts on the board for burning and test or replace the relay. If its two or more relays then check the board ground, then all the circuit grounds.