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It's a '95. The EGR doesn't operate correctly and is thus disconnected from the vacuum system at the moment. (Drives like #$%^ with it connected.) Anyway I plugged it back in for a little bit today to see if the sound would go away, and it didn't. I'm thinkin' maybe a ruptured vacuum...

No, it turns freely. And you can't hold it still when you crank it either.

XD I can't afford something like that at the moment. Maybe sometime in the future. I know for a fact something is screwy with the EGR though. Been having problems with it since we bought the thing. Even with help off here we couldn't figure it out. XD

Recently my Explorer has started sounding like it's got a turbo on it when it's under load. She usually only does it under heavy acceleration or going up hills. The driving characteristics haven't changed, but I just wanna know what could be causing that spooling sound? Could it be related to my...

Alright, Hi again guys. I'm still having EGR issues and it's just now getting bad enough for me to be nervous driving far from home. The entire EGR system is new, replaced the EGR, EVR, and PFE. They all have vacuum, and function correctly when manually tested. However, most of the time...

I'll definitely give that a shot before I go tearing her down. Thanks! :D

It's still the 335 code so it's electrical at this point. I think there is a connector loose somewhere either in the dashboard (I think it might be in the dashboard because the rear windshield switch only works sometimes) or under the intake. As soon as I've got our other vehicle running Imma...

Replaced it. Had more power until I hit a bump, then the power was gone and the CEL came back on... Something ain't right here...

Oh, my bad. I misunderstood you. I was checking for voltage reference, not for the vacuum. Somehow I missed this when I tested everything else with a vacuum; (thanks for clarifying, I'dve kept looking elsewhere.) the EVR solenoid does not hold any amount of vacuum is has a small crack in the...

Yeah, it came out right at 5V's like it was supposed to.

Vref checked out okay, put the old DPFE back in and it ran like crap and started giving me the old 332 code again. Swapped to the new DPFE code went away and drives okay again. Still got that darned 335 code though.

A little clarification. I didn't test the DPFE manually with vacuum, I used a voltmeter of course :D. I'm testing the EGR via a manual vacuum, and I tested the EVR electrically.

I've already replaced the dpfe sensor. The one in there is less than a month old. Like I said, when I test them manually through the vacuum lines, they work, but if I try to test via the electricals it doesn't do anything. I'm thinking it may be a busted vacuum line somewhere or a bad...

Just checked it. It seems fine. :/ Alright! I think I am actually getting somewhere now. I did check the EVR itself before, but I didn't check the connectors. So I checked them and I get voltage off of them like I'm supposed to, but when I ground the return line with the engine running it...

I've been messing around with it, keep cleaning off the connectors I find, no luck so far, I've still got a CEL with the 335 code. If it's any help the CEL only comes on about two or three miles down the road and it's usually after a hard brake.

Okay, I posted a thread a while back on a rough idling problem. Thought I had it fixed, but apparently the car thinks otherwise. I keep pulling codes every few times I do something to it and the codes have gone from a consistent 332 to a consistent 335. These codes will not quit, they keep...

Thank you for this MrShorty! Much better explained than Haynes ever did!

I suppose I need to start a new thread. The good news is that it hasn't given me a rough idle in a while now. I cleaned the MAF, and IAC and it hasn't given me any problems regarding the rough-idling. Thanks for your help, I'dve never checked the IAC without your suggestion.

I'm going to check all the vacuum lines going to it again in case I missed something the first time. Isn't there a solenoid or sensor the EGR is directly controlled by?

Alrighty, I'll try something like that. Are you speaking of the Charcoal canister for the EVAP system? Mine is behind the fuel tank, it doesn't look bad, but looks can sometimes be deceiving. Okay, I checked the EGR like you said. It works fine, brings the rpm's way down when you pull the air...

S'all right by me. I did check the vacuum lines, but not the canister... At the risk of sounding like a moron Imma have to ask though. What canister? As for the IAC, I left it out in the sun to dry for about thirty minutes after spraying it down with contact cleaner. I think that was enough...

There's no 'PO' in front of it. (I believe you have a OBD-II Correct?) I just have a 332 from an EEC-IV system. (I don't have any readers just a light and a piece of wire.) And yes I'm sure the 332 is the correct code as I've pulled it multiple times. What I was looking at said the 332 was an...

Ah! Thank you for that Jremington59, it just started making a loud humming noise after I cleaned the MAF. (No problems idling thus far.) I'dve never thought to clean the IAC valve for that. (I googled it and found that a dirty IAC valve makes a vacuum cleaner sound.) Pulled it (really easy) and...

I've one upped 'em by cleaning every twenty or so. We got some dirty air around here. Nah, not really it's more of a habit, when the oil gets changed the filter gets cleaned just so I don't have to keep up with when everything needs to be done. Also as a random note I think it was the MAF...

Also thanks for all your input guys, I'm running down the list one by one to see what works!