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I'm sure it's original. I have put 75k of the 180k miles on it myself.

With my new catalytic converter, the HC numbers are close to zero. However the long term fuel trim is 14 on both banks. I checked the fuel pressure today and it was 1.7 bar (25 psi), both at moderate rpm and at idle. That's consistent with being short of fuel until the computer adds more. Do...

I may not get to this for a few weeks but I degreased the pan area today. I noticed a heat shield facing the catalytic converter. It looks like it clips to the transmission somehow but I can’t see exactly how it’s attached. It might interfere with dropping the pan. Does anyone know whether that...

My 1996 XLT has a drip from around the front of the transmission pan. I bought a Motorcraft trans filter and gasket and O-ring kit to install soon. I will check the pan against a glass table to confirm that it's flat, I will use a 1/4 inch socket driver to avoid overtightening. What are the...

I'm embarrassed to report that my problem was not the alternator. I had pulled fuses in an unsuccessful attempt to locate a small current drain. When I re-inserted the "generator" fuse I missed the socket slightly. The fuse was slightly askew and not making contact. All's well that ends well.

Thanks, @swshawaii. I just finished installing a junkyard actuator. It works perfectly.

This is my next project. If anyone has photos to post, please do so.

I bought a rebuilt motorcraft $90 on eBay. I’ll be back on the road next weekend.

The battery is discharging 9 amps while running, indicating an alternator failure. I tried grounding the pin with no change. So I removed the regulator and the brushes look a bit short. Is it possible they are so worn out that they aren't making contact anymore? Edit: I'm pretty sure these are...

My brake light switch has an internal plunger: https://img.go-parts.com/catalog/brand/standard-ignition/full/414E1F1.jpg So I'm pretty sure the problem was friction inside the master cylinder.

This problem disappeared on its own. It must have been surface rust due to heavy rain last winter.

I ended up replacing the catalytic converter and the emissions are now incredibly low. 7 ppm HC. The long term fuel trim is unchanged, so I suppose the fuel pump is weak but good enough for now. Life is good. As I posted on the Overdrive thread, the direct fit California compliant direct fit...

Success finally! I found a direct fit CARB compliant converter for less than $500 at rockauto. $555 to my doorstep. AP Eastern 916060. I paid a local muffler shop $300 for removal and installation. Removal was hampered by rust, including an unusable rear flange, and it took them 3 hours. Smog...

I bought an IR thermometer and measured temps for the cats. Upstream tube was 436, after first cat was 456, entering second cat was about 430 and exiting was about 430. I'm not 100% sure the cats were fully warmed up. I'm reluctant to change the fuel pump given the time needed, but it's not...

I need a cat that's listed for test group TFM4.028G2FK at Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Database There are several, but nothing with the Part Manufacturer listed as Magnaflow. The Pre-1996 vehicles have a lot more choices for cats. The Magnaflow website says 80708 is not compatible and...

Update: The smog test failed again with almost exactly the same numbers. Any vacuum leak from the EGR diaphragm must have made no difference. EGR operation reduces NOx, not HC. I will need a CARB-compliant catalytic converter or I will have to sell the car to an out of state buyer. Unless...

Success! I loosed one of the 8 mm bolts then I heard a pop as that side of the assembly moved downward. I checked and the hood was free. After opening the hood I released the latch from inside the car. I remounted the latch assembly in its original position with 1 mm, and all was back to normal.

The cable release pulls the hook exactly like the screwdriver trick does. So that's not the problem. The release mechanism is working. I think the hood is jammed onto the latch assembly and NOT actually latched. If I detach the latch assembly from the vehicle I will have no way to apply force...

With the hood stuck open a little, I have access to the two 8 mm bolt heads. Should I remove them in order to lift the hood and diagnose the problem?

Today I recharged the AC, which required setting my big tank on top of the front crossmember. The tank must have depressed the hood latch, rotating it downward from its normal open position. When I closed the hood it didn't close all the way. It's open about 3/4 inch and stuck there. Can't...

I had to replace both the EGR valve and the EGR to Intake Manifold O-ring to eliminate the intake leaks. LT fuel trim is down to 10 or so from 15. Idle is still a little rough. Update: LT Fuel trim is back to 15 on both banks. So weird. But the new EGR valve works and does not leak, so there's...

I already paid the renewal fee on time. Does that have any effect? I will be 7 weeks past expiration when I am ready to redo the smog test. I won’t be driving it anywhere except to a smog test.

In a youtube on EGR valve replacement I got a good view of the underside of the valve. It has several holes around the circumference. That's where smoke was coming from, all around. Clearly my EGR diaphragm is broken and is letting unmetered air into the system. I will replace the EGR valve in a...

The tire shop succeeded so quickly I could hardly believe it. I tipped them generously. Some jobs are just not DIY. Tomorrow I will install a new IAC valve and run another smoke test. Edit: My small wheels were installed on top of aluminum spacers, so the thin inner rim of the spacer gave way...

I think I’d have a chance with a liquid nitrogen squirter. Today I will see if a tire shop can put the Ford on a lift and pound the wheels off.