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Are you sure it's a fuse box? On my 1999 Explorer, the fuse box under the hood is on the driver's side, up near the fire-wall. On mine there is a small tab on the back (as you face it standing on the driver's side of the vehicle) that I depress, and then the lid flips towards you. PS. My...

Very true! Might be at the junkyard too. This project comes after fixing the door lock though. Thank you for that info. Eric

Thank you. I am familiar with those claws, and do need to pry and lube them periodically. I may get back inside this door today, but it's been on hold do to other things. Eric

@swshawaii, Interesting point about the window. Does the window need to come out when the "glass run channel" is removed? It is such a tricky/tight place to work, that maybe getting as much stuff out of the way as possible is a good idea. Thank you for those links too. Looking now. Thank...

Good tips, thank you. This did fail over time. So your 80% rings true with me. I dread going back behind that door panel. Eric

Thank you for those tips. It's cooler in Texas now, so the idea of prying on the plastic does not appeal to me, since the plastic may be more brittle. Hard to believe a new piece is only $10, so that's encouraging. . I will try jetting/pinning it from the outside first. Maybe a long piece of...

Wow, I enjoyed reading this. I was getting ready to give up my '99 Explorer, but your trials and tribulations make me think I may be throwing in the towel too early. Great work, and great support from this forum. Eric

Very keen observation. Coupled with a recent new battery meant thinks got jostled. Just a weird coincidence that it was the first cold day in Fort Worth. I am breathing such a heavy sigh of relief and words cannot express my gratitude to you all. Eric

Such a brilliant question. The key turns freely and does not seem to be moving anything (I was not looking inside the door). The latch does not seem to move freely, in the sense it goes nowhere. It moves up and down about 1/4 of an inch. Other doors and locks are working. Makes me think two...

Passenger side is working. So not the pump. But I cannot figure out how to access the hose leading to driver side nozzle. Is it done from outside, or under the hood? I can't tell. Thank you, Eric

Winner! I was about to say yes to both, as I thought, "What difference does it make?", but I've been bit doing that before, and the negative cable under my hood is a bit weird. There is a lug on the end of the wire. And the lug bolts to the clamp. As I touched my probe to the negative wire, in...

Yes, I cleaned terminal posts and clamps. Everything is tight. Eric

Should I recheck that last voltage (15.1), or is normal to be higher since the battery is drawing some current? The meter starts out at about 3 amps, but will drop to between 1 & 2 after 30 mins or so (these last numbers from memory).

To answer your questions: I do have a multi-meter, and already checked a few things. My charger is a very old, very dumb, Sears 4 amp, model. It has served me faithfully, though manually, for many years. It is putting out 13.62 VDC. Battery measures 12.65 VDC. It's less than a month old...

Door will not lock with ether the door lock switch or the knob (?) on the door. I have the panel off, and am looking around inside, but can't make heads or tails of the mechanics. Is there something I should try? Thank you in advance for your help, Eric

So a couple weeks ago I replaced the old battery. No problems at all until this AM. It was a cool one in Texas, but not that cold. Engine cranked a few times, then nothing. I put the charger on, and noticed it's not drawing amps like a dead battery. Then I open the door and notice the interior...

More great advice! Thank you all.

Well no CEL light. Only ran it a few minutes, but at least computer is reset. Only changed the wire on #2, but thanks to the info here I feel confident I can now finish the job. Thank you all! Eric

Thank you for that. I'll pick some up. Eric

Thank you. Disconnected now, just waiting a bit before I see if that worked. Fingers crossed.

Thank you everybody. I did not think to approach from below. Going to give that a look, if my plea on NextDoor (neighborhood website) doesn't have any success (finding someone to help). I will try removing power too. Any chance there is a fuse I can pull (for the computer), rather than messing...

CEL is on. Code is P0302 Cylinder 2 had too many misfires within a predetermined time. Bought new wires. Bought new plugs. Getting to spark #2 is a major pain. I do notice the boot seems to flop around a bit more than the boot on #1. Manage to get it off and it just does look good so decide...

Yeah, calling those things "wires" is a real stretch. I'm sure I'll have to do something similar soon. Oh, and while I still don't know the pin-out (Actually now I just don't know the pin numbering. I was hoping the board was marked, but it's not) for just the display unit, I did find this...

Just thought I would update (yeah, it's been awhile). Never did self-solve this. Had it towed to a local garage (I've used them twice now) and it was determined that it was my computer. Perhaps that's why no codes? Anyway, it's fixed and running great.

First I would like to say, what a great thread and resource. Wish I had found this a few days ago. (Prior to finding this thread) I visually inspected my circuit board and saw no visible solder breaks, so I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that my board was fried. I bought one, used, off eBay...