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I agree with Explorer_PL, the lowers can be done on the vehicle (without much removal) with the right tool since there is enough room to get in there to them. However, the uppers don't have enough room with my tools to do them on the vehicle, but I have been to shops that can do the uppers on...

Why bother with purchasing a set of trim pieces in black? Just pull your existing trim off and paint it the color and finish that you want it to be.

Factory or aftermarket thermostats, and did you ever test one of them to see if they really were opening up too early? Also, you should be able to tell what temperature the sensor says the vehicle is running at with the same code scanner that you used to get the code from the PCM and that...

Look over in the modified section, but it seems to me that the consensus is to get the Ranchero quick struts and the overall suspension characteristics of the vehicle will be improved.

What weight oil do you run and what are the outside temps at when this happens?

I would check your front suspension components and your motor mounts to rule them out. When I have gravel/mud/ice stuck in my sway bar end link bushings I get the same clunking sound when slowing down just before I come to a stop and sometimes when taking off.

I have heard that the most common misdiagnosis is saying that the phasers need to be replaced when it is leaking exhaust manifolds. This is definitely a possibility since you have an 07 and the mileage that you have on the engine. May not be related to your issues, but when was the last time...

According to the owners manual for your year it calls for Motorcraft transfer case fluid part #XL-12 and it takes 1.5L. That is what I would put back into it.

Yes, that is correct. All the information you need is posted in older threads in the non modified section. Just search over there and you will find several posts regarding that code and the repair process.

A lot of posts on this particular issue. I would view the FordTechMakuloco video linked to in this particular one. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=437401&highlight=manifold The individual also has a good video on how to remove the broken manifold studs.

I would go to your local pick a part (parts recycler) and get a wiring harness off of another vehicle to use on yours. It honestly sounds like it would be a lot easier for you to just run a new used complete harness.

Sounds like throttle body issues, but it could be fuel pressure issues too since you indicate that it only does it when starting with the motor already hot. I would get a code reader and check the fuel pressure readings on it and see if its throwing any codes upon startup.

Off of the top of my head, anything bigger than a 31" and you have to do a lift. Search around here, lots of posts with the answers to your question.

Sorry, early in the AM and I wasn't typing clearly yet. Does your system have a dual mode? If not then it looks to be and end cap for some plumbing that your vehicle didn't need installed. If you turn the blower on do you feel air coming from areas that you shouldn't? Also, yes I am sure...

Call your local ford dealership parts counter and have them find it and order the dip stick for a 6r80 transmission for you.

Makes me think that the OP didn't have the dual mode option on his HVAC system.

On the V6 you need the torque to get it up and moving and a dual exhaust would not be a beneficial modification. Also, there is no easy way to run the 2nd exhaust line with the gas tank taking up pretty much all of the passenger side underbody area.

Thanks Rcflyer, I had forgotten that when the HVAC system is on you can hear something in the system hissing in the cabin on the passenger side when the check valve under the hood is acting up.

I doubt that he would be able to hear the check valve from inside the vehicle on the passenger side. There are several vacuum lines that activate doors on the HVAC system, it is possible that a line on the vacuum reservoir came off (behind the glove compartment) and that is what he is hearing...

I suspect that the OP is thinking of manual transfer cases and manual locking hubs where you can get away with the drivelines spinning at different rates like say on an older f150.

Just remember that the price you see a lot of the time is for just the unit and does not include a custom tune from someone, that is why you see a price of $350 for the unit and much higher prices for the ones that include a custom tune from that seller. You asked for best bang for the buck and...

Correct, there is no cabin air filter. Drop the blower motor and squirrel cage assembly out and make sure that there isn't anything in the housing blocking the airflow and then put back in. Also, switch between the different modes (take it out of auto) and see if the airflow changes between...

A little more horsepower and torque on 87 octane, better shifting, and better throttle response with little or no change in fuel economy out of the performance tune. If you switch to the towing tune (for towing loads over 2000 lbs.) you definitely notice that it is tuned more for torque and has...

+1 to what Explorer75 said. I have been using a Superchips 1865 for at least 4 years now (I lost track when I purchased it) and it is night and day compared to the factory tune on the 4.0. Definitely makes it handle much better, but it doesn't get rid of all the transmission response lag...

Yes, if the gearing on the rear differential is changed then the front must be changed to match on the AWD or 4x4 models. The issue has to do with how the RSC system works and is why just having mismatched tires on the AWD or 4x4 vehicles can sometimes cause the RSC/TC system to act erratically.