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explorerguy- Thanks for the interest. Bumpin' it up.

Bumpin' it up. Make me an offer on anything on the list. I really just want this stuff out of my garage, its cramping up the place. Thanks for looking!

Hey Guys- So, I sold my '97 Ford Explorer Nearly 2 1/2 years ago. I still have a few random parts kickin' around my garage for it that I want to get rid of. Let me know if you are interested in any of it: BW4406 Manual Shift Transfer Case - $125.00: Setup for a '98 on up Explorer. It...

I was not ever able to get the O2 function to work. The thing to keep in mind is that a lot of the software is generic, so while the software might support reading the O2, the hardware interface may not. When I was looking at packages, I noticed that there were different levels of hardware...

Ummm... ya there is. A dual in has 2 inlet pipes. I don't know about the '96, on my '97, it has 2 exhaust pipes on it, so if you had a single inlet, then that means one of 3 things: 1. One of your pipes is not hooked up to any muffler, or is still hooked up to the stock muffler. 2. They...

Well, I'm certainly not trying to say you can get ANY muffler and pipe combo for under $200. Obviously, with anything, there is a range of prices for the parts. As you point out, the flowmaster 70 series is more expensive. Most of the mufflers that are polished seem to come at a $20 - $40...

$150 for the muffler? I guess if its polished, etc. In some cursory searching on Summit alone, most could be found for under $100 ($70 for single in/out, $90 - $100 for dual in out). Same with Magnaflow as well. Maybe the more specialty mufflers with Delta Flow, etc. I can honestly say, I've...

What do you mean by "without breaking the bank"? Most mufflers can be had and installed for under $200 if you're not doing full chromed tips, etc. The muffler is only part of the cost, the labor is typically more expensive.

Well, one last follow up on this thread. It turns out that I had missed something in the tear down, or rather, I didn't think anything of it at the time. The race/support that surrounded the rear output bearing had cracked and was floating between the back of the case and the clutch. This piece...

So, with the help of the Ford Rebuild document (the same one that GiJoe provided), I tore the 1st half of the 4406 apart. Overall, this case looks very clean inside. Looks more or less brand new. I did find 2 possible reasons it was not coming out of 4wd: 1. It looks like the salvage yard...

Not "Conversion", "Conversation" (IE: the tool we are using right now).

Nope, not using the TOD diagram for anything other than reference. Haven't ordered any parts either, but did ensure that all part prices were for manual T-Case (I am aware of the difference). Also, even though the diagram doesn't make it obvious, it does have an electromagnetic clutch. If you...

Negatory, linky no worky. Looks like the path might be referencing a file local on your system (based on the "My Documents" reference).

gijoecam- Sadly, I can't see the images you posted... can anyone else? I wonder if this is a sign-in only site where you can't see the image unless your logged in... Also, for those of you looking for parts for your 4406, I highly suggest contacting TBTrans (www.tbtrans.com). This is the...

Ok, so further follow up. I'm guessing Glacier was looking at the docs wrong, because it does indeed have an electromagnet, brown wire, etc. Using a 12v battery, I went ahead and cycled the clutch on and off a couple of times to see if it did anything to loosen up the front output... nada. I'm...

Didn't think about shift points and such. Looks like Glacier has the magic manual that shows full tear down/rebuild of this T-Case, so I'm going to invest in his help in tearing it down. Looks like I'll be doing my first diary now, haha. Also, from what he said, no clutches in the manual...

When you start talking GEM doing things, this sounds like the Electric version of the Transfer Case. I have the manual version which, as far as I Know, doesn't interface the any GEM. The problem I have had is every drawing I find is strictly related to the Electric version (Torque on Demand)...

JT- Ok, that's what I was afraid of. So in "2wd" mode, its not unlocking the front. I can not hold the front output shaft while spinning the input. I'm guessing this means either something is broke, or something is sticking. I will say, when it is in this 2wd position, I hear a slight...

Hey IZ- Saw you on my post, and saw this fancy "Conversation" tool, so I thought I'd drop you a note... and thanks for helping me try and figure out my 4406 issues.

Ok, well, figured I would try it another way. I took some pictures of me shifting through the gears (well, you know what I mean). In working with a friend, it seems like we MAY have found a 4th detent, but it was very hard to get into. This was between the end point I have been finding and...

Only if the junkyard can tell that you tore it apart. Plus, its not really a "warranty" so much as a return because something was wrong with it. And if I tear it apart and find that, say, the forks are broken... well, good reason to return it. Ultimately, my hope here is that I can confirm...

Well, the pattern I know. From what I can tell though, the direction is reversed from how you do it in the vehicle. IE: In vehicle, you push forward to go into 2 hi, on the transfer case, you pull backwards to go into 2 hi. Also, when you say wire spring, are you talking about the dealy that...

Hey Guys- Well, I finally picked myself up a Manual Shift 4406. Its supposedly out of a '97 that had 81k on it. Total price was $450... but this is Cali' (and not the sticks). I could have found it cheaper, but I hesitate to buy things site unseen (ya, I guess I'm not very trusting)...

My understanding was that the 3" exhaust gave large pressure somewhere to go and equalize, but didn't let too much out. Think of it kind of like a holding chamber: Under normal circumstances, you aren't using the full exhaust. Under high pressure, the 3" area acts as a buffer that allows more...

Well, I ended up using the bolt on the strap which holds the starter positive cable to hook the ground to. After hooking up the ground to that strap, my charging/power issues appear to have disappeared. I'll keep my fingers crossed that things stay that way, haha.