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1996Limited...I agree about the message centers. Just took my lampout module, found the bad connection and resoldered. All is working great now. Just wanted to share a thought of what worked for me just in case someone else was pondering the same problem. This is one of the best forums I...

Okay, that was the ticket...my headlight problem is fixed! The low beam passenger AND both the fogs were not working. Was not the bulb nor the fuse. I pulled off the two center console pieces and located the "lamp out module" on the passenger side of the console. Two small screws and unplug...

Okay, that was the ticket...it is fixed! The low beam passenger AND both the fogs were not working. Was not the bulb nor the fuse. I pulled off the two center console pieces and located the "lamp out module" on the passenger side of the console. Two small screws and unplug and it was out...

Hey, I think I found it.... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=84456 I simple amaze myself sometimes....now, lets see if I can fix it! Casey

Just a side note...I have had this problem on my 96 Eddie Bauer before and fixed it by repairing a loose wire in a little electronic box buried in the center console. The low was out on one side but the high was fine. Not the bulb. Same problem again today. Just posted asking if anyone recalled...

Just a side note...I have had this problem on my 96 before and fixed it by repairing a loose wire in a little electronic box buried in the center console. The low was out on one side but the high was fine. Not the bulb. Same problem again today. Just posted asking if anyone recalled having...

Oops! I have a 1996 Explorer V8...if that helps. Casey

This is the second time I had this problem. I replaced the bulb thinking it was out and realized this was not the issue. Awhile back I researched this condition and found out it was a little black electronic box buried inside the front center console. Inside the little box a wire connection...

The 15mm socket is attached to the center bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley. To release the tension you turn in a "clockwise" direction....not counter-clockwise....counter-clockwise will undo the bolt to remove the pulley. To make access easier remove the apron that runs along...

...to loosen the tension on my 5.0 v8 I used a 15mm socket. Seems that everything on the engine is metric. Did not know anything about the manufacturer of the serpentine belt until after I picked it up...it was in fact a Goodyear Gatorback. Got it from Action Auto for $33.99. I have not been...

Wow, sure is nice to be able to work on an engine out of the vehicle! ...and that is one heck of a serpentine belt. I do appreciate the info on the bolts for removing the tensioner. I just replaced the pulley on the tensioner and not the whole set up...along with the upper idler pulley. I...

I am now in the process of swapping out the serpentine belt, idler pulley and tensioner on my 96 Explorer 5.0...I have to agree that as of now it is not looking like an easy job. Appears at this time that the best way to the tensioner is from below...does not look like I can get access by...

Supports the theory that in a collision the vehicle with the most lug nuts WINS.

...I have a 1996 Explorer 5.0 v8. I have been looking at Helm Inc and Ebay for a service manual or cd/dvd. I have been wondering the same thing. Any suggestions out there on who you would order from on Ebay? Thanks Casey

Robb...I have a 1996 Explorer 5.0 v8. I have been looking at Helm Inc and Ebay for a service manual or cd. Any suggestions on who you would order from on Ebay? Thanks Casey

Thanks Jefe....I was wondering about that since some places sell short racks without the inner tie rods. I just could not find anything that explained how to do this and the diagram I had breaking down a rack was not clear. I removed the tie rod ends...but the rods themselves just...

Needing to slide power steering rack through passenger side frame for removal. The lower control arm attachment at the chassis is preventing the rack from sliding far enough to remove. Would like to disconnect the lower control arm but note that there is pressure from the torsion bar. The front...

Okay, engine moved up about 1 1/2 inches so seem to have the room...except for the oil filter that is attached to an oil cooler on the left side of the engine is preventing the valve housing of the rack to rotate forward. A large hose from the bottom of the radiator attaches to the oil cooler...

...just learned that All-Data said that the four engine mount bolts need to be removed so that the engine can be lifted up one and half inches for clearance. Apparently the lower shock bolts need to be removed leaving the shocks to hang. Don't know why since the shocks are rearward of the rack...

Jefe...the thought crossed my mind that the unit was installed as a short rack with the inner tie rods installed into their sockets. I do believe that the unit will slide in as JDraper stated as a complete unit. I am curious about the removal of the inner tie rod ends... Thanks Casey

Thanks JDraper...this is what I thought also since the control valve housing sits tucked up to the left side of the engine and oil filter. The control valve housing would need to be rotated till it is pointing nearly straight forward...problem is the clearance between the lateral crossmember...

Done that... Appreciate the Autozone website...this is one of the instructions that I used from the internet. Not bad, except for does not address getting the rack in and out of the chassis. Autozone makes it sound like the rack just unbolts and drops out...not so. The rack is kinda trapped...

...bit stumped at this time. I have a 1996 Ford Explorer, AWD, 5.0 V8. In the process of swapping out the power steering rack due to a case of "morning sickness". The instructions I have are from the Chilton's Manual and off the internet. Bottom line, the instructions are generic and I am...