Search results

I always say do the cheap thing first, try a new fuel cap and filter. If thats not it then it might be the pump even though the car runs well the pump could have weak pressure test the fuel line to see if the pump is weak.

Getting the rotors turned is cheaper, but you have to take them somewhere to have it done. Your better off to just replace them cause it's not much more to do it and it's easier and you know you have a new set of rotors on the car.

I went to a oil change shop and they said mine is starting to go bad, it's cause the threads are aluminum. You can tap and die the pan it's steel and replace the drain plug with a oversize one, they told me at the shop that this is common on all fords.

Rancho makes a quick lift for the explorers fully loaded fairly expensive though.

You can try some lucas p/s conditioner.

Usually it's the axle shaft bearing in the diff that go bad. The options to fix it are a diff from a recycle yard, a reman, or get yours rebuilt. It's allot of labor to r and r the diff cause of the ind. rear suspension. A temp fix can be a full synthetic fluid change.

Did you pull the plug to see if it was fouled in any way?, but replace both to be safe, todays cars are like that now where one plug or coil can be bad and that's all you need to fix.

The OE is single platinum, I did mine and used the autolite double platinum no need to go crazy for iridiums you can get 100k out of the double plats.

It does sound like the rear wheel bearing, just replace it with a cheap one cause even a top line one you'll only going to get about a year to year and a half out of it before it starts to go again.

You can also check out some Rancho's there made for off road trucks, but they do carry a level ride shock for Explorers.

I have the same issue I had my p/s fluid flushed and it's still there. I could suggest some Lucas p/s additive as a temp fix, but I would say that it's probably the rack.

It's the torsion bar or link, I had mine replaced last year on my 02, they where on a national back order cause of the problem was starting to happen. I'm sure by now there in good supply.

More than likely the wheel bearing broke loose, but if that's not the problem there is a rear suspension link they've been going bad lately from rust and wear. When I got mine replaced last year there was a national back order on them from the dealer, but I'm sure now they have them in stock.

I wouldn't bother doing anything with the cv boots it's more economical to go with a new cv shaft they only cost around $70 or so.

Some of the shops around here use Jasper, there out of IN they come with a 3yr/100k warranty. http://www.jasperengines.com/transmissions.php

Sounds like a weak fuel pump check the fuel pressure to know for sure.

I had the same issue turn the key to the accessory position and shake the wiring a little in the door jam it will probably work intermittingly and you may hear a popping sound all you can do is go through the wires and splice and solder at that point.

you can also put some lucas in.

where do you feel the vibration?, in the steering, or seat. if it's the seat it's more than likely u-joints.

No, it's not that it's cause there's different gear ratio options to find out which it is look at the tag on the door here's a link to find the one that's on yours. http://www.explorerforum.com/ntrprize/Axle.htm

Shouldn't be a problem as long as the gear ratio is the same.

265k on mine, had a flush done at about 140k and one done at 250k the front seal started leaking put some lucas in it and replaced the lost fluid still running right, but I know it's just a band aid.

Usually a rebuild is just new bearings and seals, I agree with 99 try a thicker fluid or a pure synthetic or add some lucas in it.

Did you get a new hub with the bearing, or just the bearing itself?

Dealership or the recycle/junkyard.