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If the new plugs come with “silver” colored threads (which they should) do not add anti seize. The silver coating is an anti seize coating. The torque value is only 13 lbs or so.

It would be a pain if it’s 4wd.

My ‘04 4.6 4wd Ex is at 285k. Original engine and trans. The last 40k, I’ve been bad about oil changes. I have a rear main seal leak, so I’m adding oil monthly. Been going 20-25k miles before doing actual oil changes…. Did timing at 150k, I get rattle on load, so it’s time again. Wheel...

You can run it with the cover off. First feel the rollers to see if any play.

What makes you think they are bad? If you jack up the front and grab the top bottom of the wheel, does it have play? (Note, not all bad bearings will.) The primary sign, is road noise. That sound of off road lugged tires on turns.

These vehicles have low frames. You’d need more than a body lift or you risk getting high centered.

Update: the noise is from the engine bay. If I press down on the master cylinder the sound can’t be made. (I can make the sound by hitting the tire.) If I lift up on the master cylinder, the sound just changes. Pressing on the metal brake lines changes but doesn’t prevent the sound. The...

Ford had told me these doors break because the actuator fails. What I’ve done is peg the door in defrost position during the winter and not during summer. Using a piece of plastic to wedge it.

Wrecking yard would be your best bet.

This is also a symtom of a bad alternator or alternator wire to PCM connector.

It’s a heater hose and the plastic restrictor is known to break. A new one at Ford used to be under $20. Just reuse your spring hose clamps.

The whinny Ford pumps aren’t on this gen. I believe most aftermarket’s now are new. Historically the reman’d ones were problematic. You should be fine with whatever brand your get.

The gauges are impacted by a bad alternator, or, a bad connection to the PCM. The plugs at the alternator may be loose.

The rear guide appears to be completely gone.

You need to pull the engine, remove the passenger side head and put in new valves. If you have a borescope (camera that can go in spark plug holes) you can look at the drivers side piston tops for valve contact marks. But you probably have a similar issue there too. You have to remove the...

Metal, wire, plastic etc all cost money. Lower priced items have lower quality versions and less of these materials in them. Brands that consistently are more expensive, tend to have better materials in them, which is why they cost more. A mechanics input doesn’t really mean much. They...

I used to work for a major parts store. The “Teflon” or whatever joint that was used, was not advertised. The manufacturer actually added zerk fittings back as old school mechanics just couldn’t grasp the technology. Moog is the same quality as NAPAs value line, in most cases (historical, as...

I don’t know that quality exists anymore. I’ve had Timkin and SKF fail early, Monroe went to crap. Moog is crap. At any rate, comes with a 10 year warranty, I guess I’ll be the Guinea pig.

Most modern ball joints, tie rods etc aren’t greased. They have a Teflon joint or something.

Pretty sure you have 4 bad cylinders. 1-3, 5

Compression test.

A misfire on 1-3 would indicate you’ve jumped time. The guides and tensioner for this are in the back. Meaning you have to pull the engine to fix. If it jumped time, you’ll also need to remove the pass. head and install new valve stems. Before doing this, look into the coil. But it’d be odd...

4.0? Worst case scenario, is you jumped time. Timing on these can go with no warning. I’ve done motor swaps, and checked the timing on the hood motors, just to find every guide broken. The good engines were not making any sounds.

I’ve always used Moroes. And I tow a 12’ dual axle trailer at times.

Can’t answer your question, but most transmission shops (Aamco does) will diagnose for free. Just don’t say you are doing the repairs yourself.