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im holding my own runs new head job after a sucked valve a crossed wire ... i got it together again new rods lifters rockers but i got a bad rough tick one of the boys is clacking ive taken out the rocker assembly and inspected the rods and surfaces of the rockers no signs of dents or...

that again :/ not sure? ... i painstakingly adjusted that forgot about that little @#$%! ... i was thinking that when i got my heads done the guys gave some of my springs a lift with some washers/shims .... out of experience .....im still questioning the valve job ...

they talk about replacing cams all the time i cant wait to get my lower manifold off to check to see if one of my cam lobes is worn or scored i know it sounds bad but i bought into cheap after market lifters and wondering if one of them was bad to start with like missing a internal oil flow...

have tick at idle its not prevalent goes away but .when i hit the Excell its definitely prevalent and doesnt go away after warm up .....I had heads originally magna fluxed and a new valve and seat put in at a local machine shop after a sucked valve currently there are new rockers new...

i have had problems with crank sensor it sits low / could take a rock and can give the issue ive replaced it and started right up ...also have had the prob when not plugging it back in before :hammer:

your more complicated than my ohv ex: ....necessary to use rtv were lower manifold joins heads things like newer engines coolant hose to carb torque wrench at least 1/2 inch performing 90 deg last torque is like the bolt stops

bolt bosses same ? chamers a lil different

just need the heads off any to fit a 94 ohv 4.0 vinx will 99 heads from exp work or are there block differences like are the bolts the same im not partial to bore shapes what is the best set of heads i could put on it aftermarket casting or later years should be better 4.-0 still and...

so your saying that the syncro's are compatible and the wiring is just reversed off the pig tail ? splice wires from 94 ... ive done the one with the site glass window a little involved and you have to basically do the same thing with the install anyway without one .... i cut a wrench in...

new rods lifters rockers and heads re worked on a sucked valve ..... put it together now there is a clack under load and lighter at idle till warm then less noticeable thinking i need to give up on the heads or that i have a slop somewhere else like cam or bad replacement lifter ?? rods are...

thanks i was contemplating that and the electronics.... i did mine by removing the air intake and putting a plank of wood across the engine bay i had a cut stubby 10mm and a brass sledge to knock it loose and tighten still never got it running right now i have to swap engines or rebuild i...

adjusting the cam sensor was a big deal im assuming the sensors are just different and i got to step through a similar without the window that would be fine they have a guide tool but i assume they run off the oil pump gear the same way ..... so you dont think that the unit will cause any...

so my local salvage guy has a 95 block hell sell me but i have a 94 im not so much worried about displacement as i am about the cam sensor differences ... i dont want to change my pcm and everything to get the 95 block up and running in my truck i know how to set the cam sensor up on the 94...

yea i was thinking negative terminal were on the same ... the say plugs and wires there getting skinny these days give us a standard din or two will change em all duh ...... electrical diagrams i? i got a few backed up also and was trading differences with the 94 from 93 and earlier...

i have the wrench and have been at that sensor before i dont have surging but i have no power like im stuck in batch mode or am not getting the right timing and fuel mix i know the routine i was going to go for the vacuum modulator

if i hit the blower all my gages move fwd a notch if i turn it off they move back a notch i started having problems with my alternator gage it would get stuck beyond zero and id have to tap the glass / plastic to un pin it im wondering if i truley have a runtime drain on electricals...

me and a mechanic friend of mine replaced the shaft joints quite a few years ago but didn't do the pumpkin/diff one on the upper passenger side …. i havnt experienced a problem yet but i dont 4x too much but originally those shaft joints were causing a lot of rubbing and snapping of my auto...

going to try it again with a newer wratcheting wrench

supposedly there is access through the front cabin hump got to take seats out and carpet to find the panal on the hump i think you still have to remove the exhaust shield im trying to find out if there is loss of vac rather than shift problems

been having issues cleaned all front grounds some time ago looking for wasted spark he ha was looking in the back but now im wondering what is bridging ive had a few fords i replaced everthing electrical practically in my t bird to find a hair line crack in the battery any problem in...

well long story short after snapping auto hubs and darting and dashing (rubbing hubs wrong way ) I bought lockers and a drive shaft or two after finding find frozen universal joints on the shafts little bit of work replacing the ujoints on the front axels but dooable take your shafts out buy...

what about when your meter on the dash swings and gets stuck past the off mark

check line to fuel regulator if not pulling a vac right it will surge the idle much higher

junk yard pulls my recent problem was the door switch that isn't compatible with 2nd gen I pulled 3 and a 2nd gen the pcb gets beat up in the switch and looses ground the flakey material I just used a hot flat based grill paint on the exterior but I advise a better automotive flat...

strange often when I get in after a foggy morning or low cloud :) my 4x4 partially lights I havnt found the issue but the last time it happened I didn't have any illumination for turn signals and the brights switch didn't work like I had turn signals but the dash lights didn't display the...