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The F-body pumps are a lot harder, because the tank is a lot harder to get out (My first pump job at 16 years old was an 89 Camaro, what a nightmare). I've never had the tank down on an Ex, but I'm pretty sure you just take off the straps, disconnect the filler neck and it's down.

I would advise against taking that truck out of town. If it's starting to go out (the pump) it wont be long until it gives up completely. I could be mistaken on the diagnosis of course, but you're really tempting fate.

I think all the Windsor blocks are designed this way. Those vics have a different generation engine. I wouldn't worry about the timing cover getting twisted up, it's pretty well bolted down. I had it off the last time I did a pump. It does make sense though that a bad fan bearing will...

I'd gladly trade. I'm in the northern US.

I don't think the pressure should be low during priming. It needs just as much pressure on starting as it does running, if not more. Good chance the pump is going bad. When you initially turn the key on, it primes the pump on a time duration. If it's not getting it up to running pressure on...

That's a nice thought, but it's too late. Just wrapped up a while ago. So dang cold today it's hard to know if it's working or not. Truck hardly heats up in this weather. God bless the midwest. I'll know in the spring I suppose. Even a cruise at 80mph wont use the fan cause the air is so...

Unless it's a really crummy or defective gauge, it should respond immediately. Could be that the pump is slow to prime and it's giving you a death rattle. I'd throw a fuel filter in it anyhow and see if you get an improvement.

I'm not familiar with the 4.0 set up. The vac system on the 5.0 is well exposed.

Long story short, I'm forking out the hundred bucks for a new clutch.

They're good trucks at 80 Mph too.....

The water pump is shot. It's leaking and the belt walked off of it last night. I put thee belt back on and I can clearly see the pulley is not aligned with the rest of the belt assembly. I found a pretty good article on fan clutches. I was mistaken as some of them are thermal. But it sounds...

Sounds like you may have flooded it while trying to start it. When you depress the throttle to the floor during cranking this indicates to the computer "clear flood mode". This will stop the injectors from firing. Off the top of my head, I dont think 38 psi is high enough, but I could be...

I don't think the clutch responds to temperate. Not from other things I've read. The point of the clutch is that it keeps the fan from doing as many rpms as the engine. They're supposed to max out around 2200rpms. Naturally I changed the coolant when I last changed the pump, that is to say...

I like finding vacuum leaks with a propane torch. Don't light it, but with the engine running, spray the propane from the torch around the hoses. When you hit the leak, the engine will surge. You can do the same with ether, but it's messier and more dangerous.

Should spray it right into the throttle body (with all the duct work removed) while someone is cranking the key.

He said he's got spark, must be fuel. If neither, well houston, we have a problem.

Its on top of the engine somewhere. No exactly sure off the top of my head. Underneath the upper air intake is where you'll find the rail and injectors. The shrader should be accessible because it's a service port for testing and cleaning an operable engine. It's where you'll tap in to do a...

The inertia switch is by the kick panel on the passenger side. Should be a hole with a red colored plunger button. Do you know what a fuel rail shrader valve is? It's on the steel tubing that supplies fuel to the injectors. Turn the key to "run" and push in the pin on that valve (wear...

Theft light would be on the dash cluster. Do I understand this correctly, the truck started before the battery went bad, battery was replaced and now it won't start? It either hasn't got fuel or it hasn't got spark in any case. Any service engine codes perhaps? Some of these were equipped...

96 AWD XLT with a 5.0. I did a water pump on this thing back in June of this year. Had all the classic problems of broken bolts, removing the timing cover and so on. Today my water pump just went out again. Something isn't adding up here. There's no way in my mind a water pump bearing...

This is true. You don't have to drain it either. Be VERY careful not to drop too much old gasket into the oil pan though. I covered the timing gears and the opening into the oil pan with a plastic shopping bag while I was scraping off the old gasket.

You could try also using a left handed drill bit. I bought a set of them from Menards for like 8 bucks. They start drilling into the bolt and eventually catch and extract the bolt. You will need to remove the radiator and ac assembly to get a drill in there though. I actually had this...

Mod, please delete.

I actually found a guy on CL parting out a 99 Ex driveline. He wanted $300 for the engine (150k on it I think). For that price I can buy one and do something with the cam and valve train and get it ready to install while still driving the current engine. Gotta save a little scratch for a...

LOl, I dream on forced induction for it, but it will NEVER happen. If I'm throwing that kind of money at a vehicle it'll be my 4th Generation LT1 Firebird. If I happen to find a magic charm in my posterior, and find a complete bottom end of a 351C I'd do a 302 stroker but I'm not crossing my...