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Cool thanks for the info. I bought my lenses from the original group buy back in 2005. Luckily they didn't have the glare cap thing for the bulb so I won't have to worry about that. I know the adapters are for either the H4 or H7 but I saw 9007 adapter rings mentioned in this thread. I know...

Old thread but I'm just about to attempt this. I bought the kit and I got the lenses separated just fine. Those that have done this, did you have to trim the rear of the lens that sticks out, to tighten the projector nut? What's the 9007 adapter ring that was mentioned in here? Celly mentioned...

Well you were correct! I put the cluster back in today and everything worked fine. Maybe the needles are different on 95-96's but the how-to videos I saw of people reattaching their speedo needles in 97-01's all showed the needle falling back fast, which worried me. Guess I didn't have...

I do still have the gauges apart. I haven't tried it in the car yet. Maybe that would help sync everything up again? The only other thing I can think of is the screw driver I was using was magnetic. I don't remember touching anything other than the screws themselves but if I did touch the...

Yeah I went through the steps trying to figure out if I remember anything but it all went smoothly and I don't recall a moment where I would have messed anything up. Is there a way to remedy the issue if it is in fact the hair spring?

Reason I ask is because I was doing this fix: LINK I got to the part where you connect the battery back to the gator clips and set the speedo needle back in. I did that step but when I disconnected the battery, the needle either drops slowly and never makes it to the stop or it just says...

I know LED's generally last longer but just like CFL's, which also generally last longer than incandescents, there are certain applications where CFL's won't, ie. in places where they're turned off/on frequently. I wasn't sure if there was anything specifically with the application of these...

I look on Ebay UK every once in a while and I don't think I've ever seen anything other than the 4.0's over there, no diesels or V8's. I wonder with LPG conversions over there that maybe water in the tank would be an issue? Yeah, and why they wouldn't spell gauge correctly :D

Interesting, never knew it existed. Thanks for the info. I noticed on my '95 there's a socket right above the Check Engine that didn't have a bulb in it. It's labeled "HAZ" on the back side of the cluster. I wonder if that's another indicator that was for export. All kinds of stuff I never...

Yeah this Fuel Cap light is where the Check Engine is, on my '98. The Check Engine on my '95 is where this mysterious gas pump indicator is on my '98.

Well I know 95-97's had different indicator lights and in different locations versus the later years. Out of curiosity I looked in my '98 and there's no "fuel cap" or "check fuel cap" light. Just this gas pump looking indicator on the lower left of the right side gauges, by the battery...

Thanks for the write up, I'm thinking about doing this mod. Are these particular LED's supposed to have a longer life than the stock 194 bulbs? I prefer the stock look of the gauges so my only goal in this is to find a bulb that lasts longer.

I noticed this light yesterday when I took apart my 95's gauge cluster. I've never seen it lit. I had no gas cap for a few months and it didn't go on then either. There was a bulb for it in the cluster. Anyone with a 95-97 ever see it light up?

Just for future reference, a different PCM fixed all the issues I had. It's rare that a PCM goes bad but in my case it did. Ford doesn't sell them anymore so I had to get one at a junk yard with the same calibration code and needed Ford to do the reprogramming of PCM and the PATS keys.

Bueller?

Like the title says, I'm wondering if no CEL on startup (bulb is new), a constant p0118 code even after new ECT sensor, and no a/c clutch engagement could be symptoms of a bad PCM. I get no cold air after a full recharge and leak-down test. This is on my XP8 with 175k miles. Everything else...

Good to know. I kept reading that ABS codes are stored elsewhere and I assumed that meant a different port to access them like in the 1st gens but apparently not. Hopefully my 95's OBD1 port will provide ABS codes also. The local parts store here said they could read ABS codes and OBD1 DTC's but...

Did you get the ABS codes through the OBD port or was there another port to connect the scanner to?

Are you talking about the EEC-IV port? That's where that is. Sounds like that's what you're describing. Really what I want to know is if ABS codes can be read by an OBD1 scanner using the EEC-IV port. If not, where is the port to read ABS codes?

I know it's an old thread but where did they connect the scan tool to read the ABS codes? Through the OBD2 port like a check engine code or is there another port to connect to? I didn't think ABS codes came from the OBD port which is why I ask but I have no clue where else they can connect the...

Wow, what a small world! What part of Farmington?

Good to see another MN guy :thumbsup: Thats quite the mileage for a '97! You should post some pics

Thats good to hear, too bad you had to spend an arm and leg but at least its fixed. I know how that is sometimes.

I feel the same way, great experience and Justin is very helpful :thumbsup:

Rebuilt at 145k. After 60k miles now, going strong