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2WD...I've already done a disc-brake mod, as I already did put Mustang rear brakes on (I can upgrade to bigger brakes to go with bigger wheels, if needed). As for what I want to do, I want to be able to get through snow in the winter, as well as haul different things from time to time, maybe...

Hey TBars... First off, nice rig, man--always like to see another 2.3L, 5-speed Ranger in such good shape! However, I do have some questions. I'm running a '92 Ranger, same motor/transmission as you. What I want to know is, what combo of tire and rim size, and rear gearing, would be...

Have you disconnected the battery to reset the codes? If you don't do that, the computer will won't take into account the fact that the problem(s) have been fixed. As such, your truck won't adapt to them, and will still feel like the issue still exists. As for the coil, check the...

Scott, from what I can tell, you should have three wires coming off of the slip rings: 1. YEL/LT GRN: This wire is for the horn system. 2. BLK: This is the cruise control switch ground. 3. LT BLU/BLK: This is the wire for sending the cruise control signal to the Cruise Control Amplifier...

*bump* Just wanted to know how things are going? Basically, your project is the same kind of project that I'm going to be doing to my Ranger when I can get the facilities to do so. About the only thing that would be easier is that I have six bolts that attach the bed to the frame, lol...

Also, with the older ABS-systems: Look at the color of the fluid. A clear, slightly yellow fluid is considered "clean." Any kind of rubber particles, or a fluid that is black, contaminates the system and impairs braking performance. Now, if you have a mulitmeter, you can check for too...

Well, re-hooked up the cruise control. Would not turn on, electrically-speaking; so have to chase gremlins and replace bad wiring/components, I guess. On the plus-side, the truck didn't rev up like it did when I put everything together last August. :) So, yes, I can honestly say that I...

Have you checked the inertia switch and see if it's being tripped somehow? Also, check to see if the wiring and the high-current fuse (located at the Power Distribution Center, underhood) is working correctly. Specifically, check to see if you have continuity (no continuity/voltage would...

To my knowledge, the 2010 and up Rangers--until the last one built for private buyers (the ones in 2012 were fleet vehicles)--had switched from the 28-spline axle to the 31-spline axle, as Ford had previously done this for the Explorer, Sport-Trac and Edge. The difference for the Rangers is how...

Hey all... Sorry if this thread is a couple of years old, but I have information I wanted to share, that might make it easier for those contemplating this swap: I've been a JY and seen the difference in the '95-97 Rangers and the '98+ Rangers. The reason why the dual-piston calipers can...

Hey, Scott, just wanted to say, nice job, especially on a truck that was once a stocker, that you turned into a true expedition rig (lol...the tail-lights you installed make me think your rig is a mini-Expedition, haha! Get it? ;) :D lol) I thought that when your truck turned 20, that you...

What I'm thinking is that most people have issues with a stuck-open thermostat. I say this because when it comes to coolant flow, if it's constantly flowing, then it will never heat up. The coolant has to stay in the engine for a time until the thermostat opens to cycle warm coolant to the...

Out of Range: Sensors are not malfunctioning, but are out of specification Reason why this happens: Age, or another component within the system is broken or malfunctioning, such as wiring or vacuum hoses Sensors that need to be replaced: MAF: Located on the passenger side of the engine...

I would say that it's probably only happening when the rear axle is fully compressed. When that happens, it hits "bump stops" that keep the shocks from compressing any more. I have this issue with my Ranger, especially when I pull into a parking lot or driveway. Unless you know that the...

Actually, I found the dump valve on the brake pedal; I went out and examined the system the other day. So yes, it is located on the brake pedal. And yes, I did see the actuator cable pulled tight. What I did was I hooked everything up, including the vacuum portion, and started the truck...

After doing A LOT of research, and taking into account one repair I made, there are only 2 components that could be bad; one is the switch itself, and the other being the amplifier control module. I do recall, before I replaced the motor in my truck, that I turned the system on, to see if it...

Replacing sway bar links and bushings isn't hard. The important thing to remember is to have two jack stands on hand to lift the truck off the ground. As for bushings, I'd go with a polyurethane bushing, as the original rubber ones don't hold up as well. Also remember to either rent or buy a...

Okay...thanks for the info, and the reloaded pic. I noticed, underneath my dash, that I have what I believe to be a dump valve attached to the clutch pedal, not the brake pedal (there is a vacuum line with a plastic, spring-loaded valve). I have the Mazda 4-speed w/OD as a transmission...

It might be corroded contacts in your ignition switch. As there are no problems when the truck starts, but you have no problem when you try and turn the truck over when it doesn't work, it could be that the "start" contacts in the ignition switch are corroded. Also, the neutral/start safety...

Hey Jonathon. With the old motor, I'm thinking that you have bad compression rings, as well as a probable bad CKP (Crank Position Sensor). What I would do, if you're replacing the engine, is actually pretty simple--just change the lower end (meaning block, crank, pistons, rods, main bearings...

Thanks for the info. However, I have a couple of questions: 1. On motorcraft.com, I see the option of dealer-installed vs. factory-installed speed control. How do I tell the difference? 2. On the troubleshooting charts, I keep seeing this term: the vacuum dump valve. What is it, and...

Does the truck at least crank, when you try and start it? I'd check your air filter, in that it might be clogged. Next, check your intake components, like your EGR system, throttle body, and PCV valve. Next, check your ignition module (you've said you replaced the coils, and it didn't do...

Go to LMCTruck.com. They should have the parts you need. As for the differences between the Mountaineer and Explorer, there isn't much, other than in the way of perhaps a softer suspension in the Mountaineer, and more bells and whistles.

What the battery dummy light does is tell you when the charging system isn't putting enough charge back into the battery. I would check and/or replace the alternator (you can check that with a multimeter; should have 13-15 V running). With the battery, check the terminals for corrosion, and...

Okay, got a question for you. Would a Volvo 940 2.3L be possible to mount in a Ranger? I want to use forged internals for a turbo build, as well as the DOHC Volvo head. However, I've been told different things on whether or not a Volvo head would fit, exactly, on a Ranger 2.3L Lima block...