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you have a 2015 explorer and this is the 2006 to 2010 explorer sub forum. you may get better results over in the 2011 to 2019 sub forum since you have a completely different engine and drivetrain. I think your vehicle has auto stop start and that could be why it shuts off. the bogging issue...

i don't think its timing chain related that would be more of a knocking sound or ticking sound that would be worse upon acceleration. now comes the bad news because you say its rear of the engine the only thing i can think of is it's transmission related. start by checking the fluid level and...

Couple things you can check are power steering fluid if its low (it may be slightly from what i can see from the video) or it could be the alternator making the noise. if its the alternator making the noise it could be caused by a bad battery. one test is you can do is remove the drive belt...

The blue drawn in line is both lines together. red is the front where it splits off at and the yellow is the rear line and where it connects. i will see if i can get a better picture of the connection point. here is that picture

ok i edited the first post. give me a couple of minutes and i will get some pictures.

I dont know exactly what you are asking but both hoses come up from the tank above the passenger wheel wheel liner and under the engine air filter box. then they split and the rear goes through the firewall behind the ac accumulator dryer. the front come up and attaches to the hood.

if you look my post i specificly put the negitive sign when i was talking about negitive temperatures so yes it was positive 40°f. no, i am not saying its is a stuck open thermostat but don't rule it out just because its "new". i have replaced 4 thermostats in my truck and the one that was...

i hope it is just from low coolant but i dont think it is. the symptoms are exactly what i had happen with my 2010 4.0l it was fine in the summer and as soon as it got to 40°f outside same code. a stuck open thermostat was the issue. i have also had zero issues with my vehicle warming up...

180 is too cold for engine that's why the code is getting set. how the code gets set is when you start the engine a timer starts and if the computer doesnt see a set coolant temp before the timer runs out it will set the p0128 code. are you sure you put in the same temp thermostat as stock? i...

is it still giving codes? if you still have the o2 sensors stuck lean codes then check connectors and wiring for the front o2 sensors. if you dont find anything try unplugging the MAF sensor and run the engine this should put the vehicle into a default fuel ratio mode see if it runs better for a...

yes the the bolted lines are the refrigerant lines.

well you are left with only a few things. check for any cracked insulation mainly around the fuel injectors. how's the compression? lastly could be a faulty pcm. what pids where you monitoring?

well now i am going to have to go check mine. I only have seen the 4 neer the rear heater core and they are the only ones i have replaced. i think they fail quicker mainly it because they are always getting hit with water spray comming off the tire.

okay, for cruise you have to press the ON button first then press set when at the speed you want you should get a green light showing cruise in on. if that is how you are trying then you need to get a obd2 scanner (it needs to be able to read all the modules) to see if there are any codes that...

very common and if you didn't replace all 4 clamps you might want to.

are you sure you had a good connection? testing across the connector will give you 12v or -12v depending on lock or unlock button and you dont need to have the door shut to test just make sure the door panel switches are hooked up. if you still have the old actuator plug the electrical connector...

1.what have you tried and checked? 2.how are you engaging cruise control explain the process? 3. is there anything else not working? First reply to questions above as it may be something really simple. Here are some simple things to check. check the fuses in both in the engine bay fuse box...

ok that is a bummer was hoping it was one of thoes fuses. I think you are going to need a obd2 scanner that can read all the modules in the vehicle to check for codes. I highly recommend a obdlink mx+ and either the app the comes with it and/or forscan (forscan.org) with forscan you can buy a...

fuse 8 in the inside the footwell and fuse 24 in the engine bay.

ok the click is not he starter then. This is the light I was talking about. you checked both fuse boxes right? figuring why the dash is dead is what you need to focus on and why I am making sure both fuse boxes were checked.

when was the battery replaced? that click you hear sure sounds like the starter solinoid clicking and that is a classic sign of a dead battery or corosion in the battery connections. as you tried jumping it i would lean on corosion. start by turning on your headlights and trying to start the...

oh that's a bummer I was hoping it wasnt going to need a transmission but the 5r55 series transmission is not known to be the best transmission ford ever made.

yeah the cable ends mainly at the transmission. on mine the shifter feels a little sloppy I guess but this could be due to me not being used to driving it I have been driving a '22 f150 for the past year and the shifter detents on it are much firmer. i have not seen anything reported on the...

Have you checked the linkages? it is possible they are worn. The shifting issue is interesting what have you tried so far to diag or fix? how is the fluid level and condition? fluid level is a pain to check because there is no dipstick. what you have to do is remove a screw from a bolt in the...

With both sensors reading lean its unlikely the o2 sensors are bad or its a pcm issue. It still could be but unlikely. things it could be; wiring, a vacuum leak, fuel pressure, egr valve, pcv valve, or anything fuel or air related. on your scan tool watch the live data for fuel pressure, b1s1 &...