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http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=216&SEName=02255

Sorry to be doy ... Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) - is this a separate box and if so where is it, or is it the big dash gauges-lights-dials that I would call the ‘instrument cluster’ - the thing you look at?

1994 Aerostar. Had ABS light and speedometer went crazy above 60 MPH, onset kinda near the same time. Researched on web. Some say speed sensor on transmission tail for speedo, some say ABS sensor on rear axle runs ABS and speedo. I have NO part where manuals and YouTube videos show speed...

It may be a loosing proposition no matter what one does. When I bought the Dora, the (Dodge) dealer had replaced the radiator to prep for sale. I though Whoo-hoo, I got the (known) radiator problem fixed by the dealer! Well, 2 years later, I got seepage. Tracked down the numbers on the dealer...

That’s good, but in my case, I had rusted-out gaps around the cowl punch-out that the hose attached to, so I was getting drips through the cowl area not having anything to do with the hose that does attempt to drain water away. Looked into sealing the area and it was way complicated, so I just...

Tomato works best, just sayin.

I can echo that. PS cap right below cowl point where there is a plastic drain hose attached. That area rusted on mine, and unbeknownst to me, was dripping rain water onto the PS cap. The PS cap has vent holes, so water was entering through PS cap. Turned my fluid brown. Ran fine for years...

My only comment is I’d recommend searching Amazon for ‘other sellers’ and get OEM Ford radiator from a Ford dealer. Many for dealers are selling ‘older stock’ on Amazon. Mine was Ford OEM correct part number for $228. To me not worth the risk of aftermarket. BTW, also bought OEM Ford COP...

Busted!

It is a way to lower return refunds. If you sell a part for $280 + $300 shipping, you get $580. If it really costs, lets say, $100 for shipping, you’ve made $480. If buyer returns, or invokes eBay protection, seller demands you return item at your cost shipping, and you only get listed...

FYI? Experience? Recommendation? I am very interested.

I admit, I toyed with buying a vacuum tool, or one of the cheaper versions just for home driveway use. My mechanic, who does my big jobs I don’t want to get in to, did the unheard of and lent me his. Mechanics, in general, don’t lend tools. Check the auto stores free tool rentals too. Can’t...

I vacuum filled with something like: https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488292471&sr=8-5&keywords=Radiator+Cooling+System+Vacuum+Refill I admit I borrowed this from a mechanic friend. Best way to refill. Some vehicles absolutely...

I’d say all clamps are rusted and on their last leg - one has really loosened. Both hoses are probably degraded as well, although yours is two years newer. I’d remove the clamp, leave the hose alone, reclamp with worm gear clamp using the open-clamp slip over hose re-clamp method and get a...

What I use. Plug and Play. I have '06 V8 AWD with tow package. Yes, the adapter plugged right into the awaiting brake controller plug you referenced. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P17NXQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1...

I can barely tell by your photo, mostly because the angle, but it appears that it’s leaking at the spring clamp at the junction to the under-chassis metal line. Your clamps look as bad as mine did. When I tried to squeeze the clamps with pliers, they just broke away in a rusty mess. So, no...

There are two rubber hoses with squeeze clamps. They go from the end of the under-chassis metal tube to the metal end of the crimped hose going into the body (eventually to the heater core). Like this: ---metal---clamp-rubber-------rubber-clamp---metal The rubber hose is in basic shape of U...

Coolant feed to the rear heater core, metal lines to curved rubber to metal/rubber crimped feed up into rear the compartment heater core. If you’re lucky, it’s just the rubber ‘U’ hoses. Very hard to find Ford pieces or $$$ if you do. I went to auto stores, asked to go back to heater hose...

I bought a pair of Dorman 02255 1/2” vacuum caps. Immediately after I pulled the trans lines, I capped the line and put on a hose clamp. When I went to re-install into new radiator, I pulled caps and quickly inserted the lines. Lost very little fluid that way. BTW, BIG pain to pull the lines...

I don’t if I posted this or not, don't know if it is common knowledge, forgive me if I am redundant. I referenced this in a recent thread (Successful Radiator Change and COP coils). Just wanted to reference the Aluminum Y for those who may not find the link in my radiator thread...

Don’t get me started on the rear heat. Oops, too late, you got me started. I never had great heat. Finally felt the rear outputs and they blew cold. First Explorer so did not know ‘the plumbing’. Have ’94 Aerostar with rear heat as example; Explorer plumbed similar. Started at the rear...

V8? I don’t know if the V6 is different. I followed the video, and in the V8, the condenser fits into the side brackets of the radiator. The condenser and hoses have to stay in, and the radiator w/side brackets needs to come out, so separate out the condenser and leave in. I don’t know if...

Yes, as stated, $38. Today, however, 2-23-17, Sold-By-Amazon is now $40.50, but a third party vendor is $33.44. I avoid third party vendors as most of my problems come from third party vendors, and Amazon has no power over third party vendors, but can ‘make it right’ on ‘sold-by shipped-by...

No big deal, just wanted to add my experience of a successful radiator change in an ’07 V8. The FordTechMakuloco video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HmbuV4yCWo) was invaluable! I did it this last 60-degree-in-Febuary weekend. My advice is if you do reasonable auto work, it can be done. Take your...