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Thanks, yeah you probably had a low battery voltage issue (like many others here including myself) while cold cranking in the winter. But I wonder if the SRS system would reset itself (warning lamp off) after the repair of a "hard fault" ? My battery was four years old last winter and did that...

Good morning folks, Can someone refresh my memory on this topic ? It's been a while since I worked on an SRS system. Question: After making a successful repair to the SRS system (whether it be replacing a component or repairing an open circuit in the harness) does the SRS warning lamp...

Correct....SRS system control modules have a low voltage threshold that will light the warning lamp if voltage dips below that threshold. Once the engine is running and warmed up, the voltage comes back up and on the next ignition/start cycle, the warning lamp extinguishes. A slowly weakening...

Just did this repair yesterday on my '07...took 15 minutes. The original bulb from the Ford factory is a "37" (as printed on the OE bulb), but the 2721 works just the same. Turns out, the dimensions are the same but one of the bulbs is 1.2 watts and the other is 1.3 watts. My local Advance Auto...

I have never gotten involved with that repair on my 2007 XLT, but I am pretty sure that the source of air flow (dash vents, windshield, foot-well, etc) is controlled by engine vacuum...not an electrical switch and electric motor set-up like the temperature blend door is. There is this link on...

Rock Auto sells it for $48 these days (plus shipping). OEM Motorcraft part.

Oh wow.....it's come down in price. I guess there may be more companies producing it these days ? Thanks. I wonder what a Ford dealer would sell it for (the OE Motorcraft part).

I agree....that's why I made my comments about the video that was recently posted here.

Yup, that's the part number for the manual climate system. Just curious....I bought the Dorman part a few years ago and it cost me $38 including shipping. What did you pay ?

No, that's not true Sir. In my original comment regarding the video you referenced and re-posted here, I pointed out that contrary to what the guy said in the video, this part is NOT a VIN-specific part. The guy in the video said that it is. So that's an error I'm pointing out, not an opinion...

My 07 (with manual climate control) has the same level of heat since installing the Dorman motor as it did with the OE part from the factory...it's never been great since day 1 of driving it off the dealer's lot new. However. there was a Ford Technical Bulletin (TSB 08-5-9, originally issued in...

I'm not mad at all.....just passing on my personal experience with that particular job. Just because I did not make a video for this job does not absolve the person, so to speak, or validate the info in a video from someone that chose to make one. More info is always better and pointing out...

I don't what this guy in the you-tube video is talking about when he says you need to go to a dealer "because the blend door actuator is VIN specific". Perhaps he should have explained why he personally needed to do that in his particular case. He is working on a 2007 model year (as is my...

Interesting.....the other videos I saw on You-Tube only referenced the first 4 resistors he pointed to initially. I did not know that the other resistors he pointed to could be the cause also. Which ones repaired the problem for you ?

No, never heard anything concrete. So what I did at the time was replace my perfectly operating one with a new one before it failed. But that doesn't help you....sorry.

So would a resistor that had 181 on it be 180 ohms ?

Yup, that's correct...the radio is tied into the CAN Bus (aka Controller Area Network). When I picked up my '07 truck new (with the brand new '06 radio installed) I checked those two functions before I left the dealer and they weren't working. So I explained to the salesman that it needed to...

Thanks for the explanation on the resistors

Hi everyone. Question on the 2006-10 Explorer radio LED display going dim or not working at all. I took the radio out and attempted the solder repair. It did not change the condition...and I'm pretty good with a soldering iron. On my display, my problem is the farthest left digit of the...

You'd do the same for me...I'm sure. You're very welcome.

Hey....the pleasure is all mine. The way I look at things is "you get what you give". I've been helped here before, so there's no reason not to pass along information on a diag and fix if it saves someone some time down the road. It's just an addition to our database. I appreciate your kind...

Well, I just solved mine this morning by replacing the outside ambient air temp sensor purchased from Rock Auto online for $18. . Allow me to explain. I had no specs for what the range of resistance (ohms) should be for a normally operating sensor. Note: an outside air temperature sensor is...

Further info. I located the temp sensor...it is mounted on a the radiator/AC condenser upright (driver side). You do it standing in front of the vehicle, no parts need be removed to pry it off...it's up top. All one has to do is pry it from the mount with a screwdriver (it's attached by those...

Thanks for the help....no luck with mine this morning. I went for a short drive to the convenience store and it stuck at 140F. It would be a complete guess on my part, but perhaps it the sensor fails or there is an open circuit to the sensor, it defaults to 140F ? Perhaps 140F is the upper...

I've started it, but not driven it. I will be driving it tomorrow morning so I guess I will see if it corrects itself....it will be about 30F tomorrow when I drive it. Any idea where it's located ? I'd imagine it must be in front of the AC condenser somewhere in the air stream ? .