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Running the Mountaineer 5.0 - anyone find a reason why these would not fit? Other better options? Just trying to get rid of the sagging butt on my Mounty and give me some room for the weight to carry another 300lbs in rear. Link is here

Well...couldn't find any amp anywhere. There is a little aqua colored box on the wall by the passengers feet, but that didn't have any of the wires from the stereo going there. I just rewired the whole thing - couple things to note if you are going to rewire your stereo: 1 - you cannot use...

Where is the amp at? I have a 97' with the 6 disc CD changer in it - not sure if that one has the amp. How do I get new wire to the speakers in the doors - is there any kind of homemade tool to fight through the rest of the wire?

I'm having problems running an new amp through the wiring harness that interfaces with the Ford harness. Every time I hook up a single speaker to the harness it freaking shakes the speakers to pieces. I can run direct to the speaker and it works fine from the amp so it's something in the...

The spring is broken in the door handle. Causes the door not to unlock and I have to open the rear driver door and reach through between the front seat and the door and open the door. Getting old after 3 years of this. I couldn't bring myself to replace it from the dealer because it is...

I had a similar issue and it ended up being that the axel nut wasn't on all the way and it was causing the caliper cage to rub against the brake rotor. Don't know if that is the issue, but you might check to make sure that you seated the rotor back all the way and the axel thread that is...

Thanks for the response dude - I got it figured out. I sprayed some PB blaster on the shaft and let it sit for a couple hours. Came back and had my son grab the motor housing and pull. It slid a little, then I turned it over and pressed it back down...pulled again. Sprayed more PB on it and...

Everything is torn apart...if anyone can post some help that would be great. I got the blower motor out no problem but I can't get the squirrel cage off to put on the new motor...NO IDEA how to get it off. It just had a little washer that slid over the top of the shaft and it crumbled...no...

*bump* Bumping again for refresh - someone has to have replaced this thing before and knows what part to order. Anyone? Bueller?

*bump* Anyone know what the part number is on this with dealer or rockauto?

They are hard lines though - and I can't find a part to replace them. Any help?

I have no idea - but it leaks...as you can see. It's been fixed with JB Weld multiple times. It runs all the way to back of the block and plugs into the top side of the block toward the front. Let the games begin...

Thanks guys for the response and encouragement :) I need to order the timing kit, but I think all things being equal...I'll go ahead and do it. I'll prep with some PB blaster throughout and it should be ok. Am I going to need a gear puller for the two gears in there?

*bump* Anyone with any ideas on this?

I've been through the forums and found plenty of info. I just wanted to get your take on doing the timing chain with the water pump. I have 160k on my 97 5.0. I had to replace the thermostat housing because it was all rusted and falling apart. I decided to replace the water pump since I know...

Can anyone give me any ideas on how to get my EGR tube off? I order the replacement, along with a new EGR valve and gasket, but I the space is too small to get any wrench in there to loosen the nut to remove the tube from the exhaust header.

Fixed it. Here is the long and short of my story: I had the front drive shaft rebuilt - noise didn't go away, minus $300 Took to a guy to run diagnosis, he says that TC is bad and wanted 2100 to replace I took it to an axle/diff guy and he had to rebuilt the tc and put in new u-joints on...

How do they do the adjustment where there is no adjustment on the UCA?

No it has to have an adjustment on it, that is the driver UCA...like I've said, I've never seen the 1 piece replacement for the 2 piece factory design on the pass side. I've just heard that it is available.

The top link is for the Driver side, the bottom link is for the passenger side (two piece replacement) There is a one piece replacement for the pass side but I've never seen it.

I posted, but didn't hear anything yet.

Hey, check this out. Will this work? Would probably be a good idea to rebuild the U joint on the front as well, but isn't this what I need? http://www.driveshaftparts.com/cv-joints-shafts/ford-explorer-front-driveshaft-cv-j/prod_935.html

Poop. How do I go through a vendor here? Not sure how to look that up...

300 bucks. Ouch. Was hoping for the 70-100 from the first part of the thread. Is that really the only option?

I can't find anything cheaper than 250 bucks. Is this what you are talking about? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPV0/659450.oap?keyword=drive+shaft!s!prop+shaft I've got the exact same problem...