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Ditto, the auction ended and gladly at a more respectable level than how it started. I hope the new owner enjoys it a lot, and it has a long life. You too, enjoy retiring to Japan with your family, and thanks for your time here.

Those first rotors I got in 2004 with the EE suspension kit. Those were EBC, spot faced, not drilled, and slotted, a little over $150 back then for the pair. I got 40-45k miles from those first stock brakes, with EBC pads. Later on about ten years before now, I discovered the Ford severe duty...

I respect your thoughts as you went through the process of selecting wheels and tires, ride height etc. I began with two 1st gen Explorers, then my 98 Mountaineer. I bought the Explorer Express X-spec kit for the suspension, it was aimed at a 2 38" lowering. It worked great with that, though I...

I wish the truck well, you did a great job building it. I hope I can do my 98 project justice when I get on it seriously. I appreciate those headers also, the pictures give me hope I can make the versions I'm hoping to, in my AWD truck. I posted a link to the auction on the Corral, in a thread...

I'd love any Cleveland with a proper high rpm valvetrain and intake etc. Those were made for 7000+ rpm, but you have to upgrade the valvetrain to really enjoy the huge power possible. The LS engines were based on that huge intake port concept, GM developed it fully, 30+ years later. Bob Glidden...

Those 90-110in/lbs tightness bolts are about wrist tight. I have such a small torque wrench, but from doing several valve bodies, and valve cover bolts, trans pan bolts, and the camshaft two cover bolts of old Fords, it only takes your wrist on a short ratchet to get them tight enough. Use the...

That's a 95-98 Limited front bumper, my two 98's have that. I have a Saleen bumper to go on my project Explorer, and a mangled rear bumper if I can get it untwisted. Those are urethane, and like plastic easy to warp.

Is the space for the oil filter the normal amount? Have you taken apart one of the old oil cooler assemblies and removed the cooler yet? I thought you would like that conversion, change the adapter bolt and use an FL1A or larger filter, in the stock location. I hate the tiny FL820S filter, it's...

I had to replace a windshield in my 99 Explorer less than two years ago, my insurance paid for it. The guy that did it said that they still cost a little over $200 to get it done at your site. That's a good price to get new glass, and the perimeter trim which looks better and keeps most debris...

The windshield seal looks very old, if the glass is that old and you might be replacing it soon, I'd cut all of the seal away that blocks your access. I'd rework that window channel to kill and treat all of the rust, and then do the glass(which comes with a new seal). If there is no rust right...

That's what I meant, the engines changed over those years, and I figured you were doing the trans rebuild. I've wondered why so many people have been okay with the expensive adapter kits, and the extensions to the torque converter studs. That's weak, and all of that is just because of the block...

What engine are those 89-97 Thunderbird/Cougars using to want the 6R80? I ask because my plan is to use one behind my 302, in my 98 limited. I discovered last year the slight differences of the blocks and trans bell housing. Look at this picture carefully, this shows the interference of bolting...

Question, what do you do to rebuild the pump? I've had them apart before but never did anything, every unit I've rebuilt has had under 100k miles. Also, what's the current rule of thumb for clutch clearances, .010" per clutch? That's where I've set them on the 5-6 I've put together. I wonder...

That noise is strong and loud. What lifters are in that, the mileage and storage, and do you have stock rockers on it? If it's got roller rockers, that's what I would be worried to check very soon. Roller rockers on studs are more tricky to get to be somewhat quiet, and reliable. I prefer stock...

Here's a link to one of those type of clamps, a picture at least. Summit doesn't carry this one now, but they are around in various sizes and a couple of brands. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-16868

The AC drier is the main part that needs to be replaced when the system is open, moisture gets into that and too much reduces its effectiveness. The rest you can clean or flush out, and reuse depending on what debris gets into the system. So a system kept closed, but old, can be reused if the...

You should go through your car insurance to get a new windshield. I had mine done two years ago for no cost. Most shops used to do it for $250 total, coming to you with the new glass. They use special urethane sealant, you want that very much. The glass itself used to cost just $100 alone. I'd...

Those both sound fine to use, the 180k is not great but that they had no known issues, that's the biggest plus. The 4R70W is very reliable, even with some common neglect. My last two 98 trucks have had the same typical mild shifting, that's normal. If you upgrade the shift quality by making it...

Yes, that Sonnax item 4R70W-LB1 is the one I meant is the newest upgrade and very desirable. That isn't in the Zip kit unfortunately, I'm not thrilled with the price of the LB1 kit either. That means that one thing in the Zip kit is not used if you buy that, they are for the same valve in the...

The J'Mod is the main way to go for a 4R70W, given how long it's been around, and created by a Ford trans engineer. I haven't done the J'Mod, but I have done several other VB kits for the AOD, A4LD, and the 4R70W. I was doing those before the J'Mod came out, which was in the mid 90's I think...

That is the IAT location for all SBF EFI intakes before the mid 90's V8's. The later models have it in the inlet pipe leading to the throttle body, which is a little cooler but mainly less damaging to the sensor. The old IAT sensors are reliable, but they do degrade over 15-20 years. The type...

Yes, that is the key code module and it's separate from everything else. You can add one code of your choice, and it won't be lost when the power is cut. I'm using the same code for six of my Fords.

That would be great. Is it mounted just like the early 2nd gen's, on the left with the same single strap? I'd like to find that then if it's plastic, what's special is that the plastic tank is shorter than the steel version. The 4dr steel tank is very long, and it's easier to starve the pump of...

Hmm, did they go back to plastic fuel tanks? I haven't seen any past about 1999, the few in JYd's were steel from 95-99ish. I got a 99 dented Sport tank for the skid plate and the pump assembly ages ago; that I noticed was the same length as my old 94's 4dr tank. I'd love to have a plastic 22...

Not unless the pump sock is really full of material. My Mountaineer has rust in the tank, it fouled a new filter in a few months after I replaced it all(sock of course). I have to have a new tank for mine next time I get it running.