Search results

I would assume the pinout would be the same except where the pins would be for fog and auto lights, would just be empty, not sure if that's the case, you would have to compare them

Pull yours out and take a snap of the connection, if it's the same on ones at the yard, try it out. If the switch has options for fog lamps but the connectors the same, it shouldn't affect anything by logic, it's worth a shot, otherwise try ebay/rockauto/etc

Are they turning full off and on or is it more of a flickering?

Ok so it definitely sounds like a short issue caused by water, so really it's just about finding out where the water is getting in and stopping it, and also repairing the wiring in the affected area if it was fried

What is the probability in your mind that it was caused by the rain?

Best thing to do would be to wait for heavy rain, pop the hood and also possibly pull the cluster and look for signs or evidence of rainwater getting in somewhere. Normally these have issues with the driver side boot wires, but none of the cluster wires are in there, I will dig around and see...

From what I understand, it seems you may need to replace whatever parts are damaged, and then have a dealership reprogram the PATS to function correctly. There may be a way using forscan to do it yourself, but I never tried it. All PATS components need to be from the same vehicle or programmed...

Are you sure everything is hooked up properly? It definitely sounds like the brake light switch. Have you tried pumping the brake pedal a few times? I sometimes have to do that to get it to 'grab' and catch that the pedal is depressed

Since it seems to have responded to rain it leads me to believe it's more of a wiring/grounding issue over the cluster failing. Do you still have your odometer readout or no?

That style dome light should unhook on the windshield side and will swing down and toward the inside of the car on hinges. Definitely a good idea as those spiders can get pretty scary! If you can't get it by hand I recommend a plastic trim tool (harbor freight) to pry that side free, or if...

If you haven't yet tried, I'd look for that part at a junkyard. Chances are they'll have one in good shape

By 'shaking' do you mean pushing say on the fender to compress the springs? It could be the struts, When you push down on the corner of the car there should be no more than I believe 2 bounces down up down. If there's excessive bounciness chances are the struts should be changed. Since the...

Well just got back from the car lot and turns out there's no way I can afford a newer suv. So brings me back to having to fix this thing again. Something I never understood about the timing issue with these is this: I've heard horror stories of how after replacing tensioners the chains would...

I am possibly buying a newer car today, that will grant me the ability to tear into the explorer in my spare time without worry. This way if it is a simple fix, I'll have two reliable vehicles, and if not, it'll have to sit until I have the time and money to put a new engine into it since I...

Not to sound stupid but how would one test that? As long as I owned the vehicle the filter hasn't been replaced, and I know there's an issue with the fuel level sending unit but not sure about the actual pump itself. Also note tonight: The ticking noise I hear at idle is pretty loud and goes...

I honestly believed it was the timing issue. Only time I experience that rattle over 2500 rpms is under hard acceleration, which doesn't happen often. I haven't testing that rattle with the stethoscope yet since it's hard to hold the throttle open steady at that range while poking around with...

Take the wheel (jacked in air), at the 3 and 9 positions and wiggle for play, if there is any likely a tie rod/steering rack issue, or a worn bearning/hub, then take the wheel at the 6 and 12 positions (only if you have jack stands supporting the area, and check for play there, that could...

I'm not too sure how to post that, only problem is that I don't hear that sound ANYWHERE else, I spent the better part of an hour sticking the stethescope on literally anything I could reach- bolts, covers, the heads, especially areas close to where the secondary chains are, and nothing, but as...

Okay so update: I used a stethoscope to finally figure out the point where the clicking is at its loudest, I hear nothin on the intake, exhausts, valve covers and bolts, belt drive area, alternator, etc. but as soon as I put the tip anywhere on the fuel rail the clicking is extremely loud and...

I've been pretty good about successfully fixing this car when need be, I have most of the tools I'd need except the timing tool and an engine stand and crane. The part that worries me the most is actually taking the engine apart and getting it all back together without accidentally moving or...

Hey all, I have a 2003 ford explorer 4.0 SOHC with the dreaded timing chain issue. Rattling is now getting louder at idle, there is also a rough idle condition. It goes away when revving the engine even very lightly but will return at rpm's of about 2500. In all of your experience would it...

One of the compressors functions is to take air from the 'low' side and compress it into the 'high' side, with the system off both sides should balance out. When reading the gauges you should see the low side depressurize and the high side jump up when the compressor kicks. If this doesn't...

190xxx

It also appears the rear passenger tire on the same side has outer tire wear as well, so both tires in passenger side have outer wear now.

There is slight play in both front wheels after checking the driver side again. Again it is extremely minimal. Something you really have to feel for to even notice it. It occurs with the opposite wheel on or off the ground (both wheels raised)