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Yup. Going to the shop soon.

Update.... Used the block tester last night. Blue fluid turned yellow. This is the bad sort of "positive".

^ If that's working for you fairly consistently then yeah, faulty pump is very likely.

Cycle the key from Off to On without cranking the engine, do this 2 or 3 times (leave in On position 1 to 2 seconds each time) and then attempt to start. Did it fire right up? If so, suspect fuel pressure leakdown. It happens due to a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. You wouldn't be the...

As far as your tuning questions regarding the parameters HP can modify and to what extent, it is probably best directed toward them.

The issues with the 5R55 series transmissions aren't quite as epidemic as forum people make them out to be. I have two vehicles with 5R55 transmissions, both high mileage (172K and almost 190K) and both run flawlessly. And in all honesty, yeah I have done the odd fluid and filter change on both...

Going to get a block tester and check for combustion (carbon) in the coolant. Hopefully it comes back "negative", but I think it'it's time to definitively rule a potential head gasket issue in or out. It's gotta be either a failing head gasket or some restriction (foreign object somehow) that's...

^ Absolutely not. I don't do snake oil or any other "liquid mechanic" stuff in any of my vehicles.

Used an AutoZone (Dorman... yeah, I know) t-stat housing assy. This is the second one, first one lasted about 3 years. Other possibility I have considered is head gasket. Although there is no fluid comingling one way or the other, no smoke from exhaust, no misfiring. So at a loss there, but if...

2008 w/ 4.0, 172K miles.... Had this truck since 2012 when it had just a hair over 50K. Have done all maintenance myself, and other than replacing the factory radiator that was leaking right about the 100K mark this truck has never had any problems. What's been done so far: Another new radiator...

P0304 as you're probably already aware is misfire at cylinder #4. The P0316 is a little trickier, and there are at least a few likely causes. Read through the following link for diagnosing the P0316 dtc, I generally like to start with diagnosis/replacement of the easiest and least expensive...

Stupid easy to replace on the 4.0 in these trucks. Cylinders 2 and 3 (especially #3) are a little awkward to get to but that's it.

Inspect ball joints, they are likely to have gone bad.

Doublecheck all connections at the battery (incl. chassis grounds to radiator support) and alternator that they are clean and secure, but other than that I'm with the above post that it's probably new alternator time. I had a similar issue with a flickering battery light on my Mustang a couple...

The 3rd chain if my understanding is correct, is only on 4WD models and is for a balance shaft, wtf ever that is. Rear shocks, they do suck a little. I had read here about ratchet wrenches and figured I'd be fine with regular wrenches. And I was, but it sucked balls - one nut in particular I...

Unfortunately the same story is true for Fords and every other manufacturer. Everybody has a model with a bad year, or sometimes just a bad model altogether. That said, I have owned/driven nothing but Ford cars and trucks for over 20 years and although I have cut my knuckles on a variety of...

How much longer? The way I usually do this is one at a time, and lay them out on the floor as to match the old one up to the new one (which should be more or less identical in length). If the difference is that the new ones turn out to be an inch or two longer then I wouldn't worry about it...

These are good trucks, I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Be religious in your oil change regiment and regarding the transmission, the 5R55 is a decent unit but I would be damn sure to change fluid/filter every 30K. Routine maintenance is key to longevity with any vehicle, but it is especially...

SoCal2V Does your 2008 have the module per your statement? Thank in advance. No I do not believe it does. If you are trying to figure out the actual location of the CC module for that truck let me know and I can go take a look for you; as much time as I have spent under the hood of that...

Would think at a minimum you would also need the Cruise Control module/motor (the thing that actually controls throttle when CC is activated) and the cable that runs between it and the throttle body; it is located under the hood near the washer fluid and coolant reservoirs.

Just keep it switched to Naked Lady mode, you'll be fine. For pics, believe you need to upload them to a Photobucket or similar acct and then just post the link.

This. If a wheel bearing is worn and allowing some slop or play in the spindle/hub, the ABS wheel speed sensor will get a funky reading or none at all from the trigger wheel.

That's because there is a light behind it. Was kinda wondering the same. The way it's phrased, it sounds to me that instrument cluster illumination is working as it should. OP, help us help you. Descriptiveness goes a long way in situations such as this.

The loss in backpressure theoretically will cost you a little bit of torque at lower rpms (with the trade off being slight hp gains at higher rpms), but I highly doubt anything significant or more than barely noticeable if at all - both for the tq loss and the hp gains. The catalytic converters...

Possible the truck has some hidden collision damage somewhere?