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I remove the front passenger tire and reach in w a 27mm wrench removing the egr tube at the exhaust manifold. You can lift off the intake manifold w the throttle body remaining attached to the intake manifold. The two heater hoses behind the valve cover can be disconnected and moved to the...

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My MAF cause a ton of drivability issues. Once I replaced it all seemed back to normal. Edit: what’s going on with those green wires near the MAF?? Lol… (Go Rams!)

Dealer should not charge too much to get this done right the first time with success vs buying and trying to utilize aftermarket scanners that really do not have the capabilities of what the dealer techs have access and training with to solve your problem. The PATS does a good job of making sure...

In my experience my issue or main focus of the rebuild was the quality of the machine work on the case addressing the servo bores. The parts used to create the “new” bore sleeve may also have some impact. For me the issue has been shifting into Reverse. I also paid for a new/rebuilt TCU along...

The connector used on my four blade sensor attached to my throttle body was WPT1293. Under an 08 Ford Explorer on Rockauto you can see the connector and also see the throttle body pictured under Throttle Body tab.

For the work and time involved adding my vote for buying and pressing in better bearings. I bought them cheap and the pair lasted 12 months. Too much work to not buy better bearings.

I had not been able to verify if my tensioner was a Ford part. Based on the unsealed bag containing that part I would say it’s Ford part. Thank you for the update. Manual tensioner looks very interesting.

That's right... perfect.

Its a M10 x 1.0 thread. Sorry for the delay.

I did. It was easy. My trans was out on the bench. There's a heat shield that will give you trouble. Mine works great. I have GlowShift guage. I installed it simply to know what the actual temp of the trans fluid is at any give moment. I had to add an extender to give me more room.

Pulled the bottom end apart. This is what most bearings look like.

Safer at Home in Los Angeles is not the best of times. I had time to remove the trans on my 2003 RWD base XLS for a front pump rebuild. It wasn't too difficult to remove and reinstall. What's with the run on Toilet Paper? I just don't understand. Liquor sales are up 55% for the month...

Thank you!!! Best news of the day for me. Cheers.

I looked and I cannot find a straight answer. I have a 2003 2wd v6 explorer that I just had freshened up due to a nagging external head gasket leak. The 2003 Torque Converter is failing. It sounds like a rattling can. Will my torque converter from my old 2008 Automatic Trans v6 explorer...

Or Vin# K. I use the flex fuel for cost reasons. It's almost a buck cheaper. I haven't done the real world mpg to see if I'm really saving a buck per gallon vs appeasing my other half with reduced expenses. When I mix the tank with regular gas I seem to get the best performance. This...

Looks like a beast on wheels.

Back on the road. The cheap non motorcraft tensioners need to be replaced with oem or Cloyes ASAP due to Slight rattle on first start up. After 200k I changed the original fuel filter. What a huge difference in pedal response. I am going to cut open the original filter tomorrow is in it.

Or you can remove the starter and unbolt the torque converter then shift the motor forward with a support bar or hoist. That’s what I did vs removing the trans. I didn’t have access to a hoist the last time I had to change the rear guide and chain.

Update: Front cassette and chain replaced. Timing cover and water pump installed. Hope to have it running tomorrow. I plan on spinning the motor in the morning to listen for any interference. I had difficulty getting the front cassette down through the head. The snap ring was removed...

I think 90 degrees is a 1/4 turn. 90,90,90,90 = 360 (thinking out loud) My socket size for the front is an E-18, if my memory serves.

The rear is a female Torx and the front is a male torx. If I recall correctly. I haven't compared them visually together at the same time either. This info came straight from my Haynes manual.

My manual says jackshaft sprocket bolts: Front 33 lbs plus 90 degrees Rear 15 lbs plus 90 degrees

Update: Took most of the motor apart last night. Right head rear guide is fine. Front of the motor looks fine. Going to drop lower oil pan when I'm done with the repair. It's a shame I had to dump the coolant and soon the oil as both were just flushed/replaced. There is a mystery piece...