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I'm surprised you even got Uhaul to rent you a trailer... company policy doesn't allow that.

Here is another article on CNN.com. http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/06/16/ford.vehicles/index.html Sounds a little sketchy, but nothing I would lose sleep over.

When you terminate the exhaust before the axle are there any problems with fumes getting into the cab? This is something I have been wondering about for a while now.

I am also a mtn. biking nut and I decided on the hatch mounted rack. It just hold on to your rear hatch with some little fingers. It goes on and off in minutes and doesn't cost as much as roof or hitch mounted solutions. (Though there are major advantages to roof and hitch...) It all depends on...

I totally agree. Go with KKM. Or you could modify your airbox for even cheaper. (Saw intake hole on box bigger and put in a drop in K&N for about $40.00) It all depends on what you want to do.

Is it bad to terminate the exhaust right after the muffler? Just weld a downspout to a muffler and leave it as that? I can't find anything about this topic. Thanks.

Mine is 2WD, but I have the V6.

Not trying to flame or anything, but It would be helpful if you included some more information because your post is quite vague.

Thats about what I get too. All I have is the SOHC with a KKM. I tend to baby my throttle though. (I do gas it once in a while, the open-er intake sounds awesome)

www.extrudehone.com

I just put a KKM on my truck and I noticed alot more noise too. However... the whistling only occurs when the throttle is partially open. Once it is mostly open all you hear is engine roar and the whistle goes away. Is this what you fellas are talking about?

Well, it looks too good to be true... I call BS.

So, if I am following you guys right, I need new greasible tie rods and such so I can keep those joints lubed? Are there any other ways to get around this? How do those non-greasible joints work? eric

Are you kidding... or actually serious? That was my idea, but I thought it was too.... sissy.... :-) Anyway, that's cool. eric

When is the intake Dynomometer showdown going on anyway?

Does anyone know what the vertical slot is for in that console? That it was I have in my truck and I can't figure out what the heck it is for...

I am a frequent NAPA customer here in Phoenix and I was told by one of the managers that ceramic pads are a no-no for rotors that were not made for them. They chew them up because the metal is too soft. He said, stick with the regular pads made for your car. (He is an ASE Certified Master...

MAC Intake? Does anyone have any experience with the MAC Intake kit that explorerexpress.com sells? http://www.explorerexpress.com/catalog/pages/stage2v6.html It seems to be the cheapest setup I have seen so far... ? eric

Ceramic Pads This is slightly off topic... but... I was talking to the manager of the NAPA auto parts store I go to and he said Ceramic pads are a BAD idea if your rotors were not made for them. (He is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic, knows quite a bit about cars) The ceramic is harder than...

I would have to disagree. When I removed the speakers and put in Infinity's the speakers matched exactly. If you put them side by side or measured the cone... the same.... so... I don't know. Maybe my truck is a gimp?

I have a 1998 XLT and all four doors are 5X7. I have the Premium Stereo in mine... don't know if that makes a difference.

Tell me more about these line level converters. Do they go on the lines to the speakers? Do they render a speaker line inoperable? Thanks Eric

Nothing at all?

Here's a question for you all. I already searched my guts out for an answer and came up with nothing. I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the Premium stereo. I upgraded the door speakers to Infinity References and they sound great. I want more down low sound though. Is it possible in any way to add...

It sounds like it is going really fast, huh? Mine does that too when I put it in the right turn position, but it only does it when it is cold. Not all the time though.