Search results

I'll take another look tomorrow, When I tried to un latch the clip from the rod I could not even do that for lack of room. I can't imagine what it will be like bolting the new latch to the rear doors. I have skinny arms and long fingers. If you did it I guess I should be able to get it done...

Ok I think after re reading your post is that what you are saying is that The rivets are what are holding the track between the !/4 glass and the full window. Is that correct?

Thanks for the post. What I'm talking about is the rear window guide which is located inside the door. On the fron you remove one 11mm bolt and pull on it slightly and it is out of the way so you can replace the exterior door handle. On the rear I removed the interior door panel then the weather...

I really can't see what is holding the rear window guide. On the front I only had to remove 1 11mm bolt and pull slightly on it. On the rear It seems to me that that guide reaches up and out of the door all the way to the top rear portion of the window and is snug against the 1/4 glass. I...

Hey Guys' I've run into another problem now. I replaced the original front white exterior door handles with black ones of which I ordered 4. I figured that the rear ones would be even easier Man was I wrong, as the rear window guide won't drop out of the way like the front did so now I can't...

I recently replaced my front exterior door handles with black ones since they were worn out, when I orderd the handles I purchased 4 planning on doing all 4 in black. The front took me about an hour, easy job. Well I thought the rear would be much easier. Man was I wrong as the rear window guide...

2000 Explorer rear window defroster, The problem is that the electrical contact that is connected to the glass has let loose and there by swinging around in the back by the coiled wire. Any Idea of what kind of adhesive Ford uses to adhere the metal piece to the rear window? The metal Piece I'm...

OH Yeah, Success at last, All doors lock and unlock as they should and the drivers side mirror works as it should. I'm one happy camper. Thanks. I have not searched this problem yet, What I have is one side of the rear defrost window The coiled wire has torn off the metal contact that contacts...

The site already has saved me a lot of time. I got the door off myself quite easily. Never sliced the boot, instead I pulled the boot loose from the plug connector and found the green wire broken about 4" outside the plug soldered in new wires and should be good to go when I get a helper to put...

Sounds like the 5.0 engine is fairly reliable, Anything that is really prone to fail on the 5.0. or the AWD Explorer itseelf I've found it to be a relatively easy vehicle to work on myself, aside from my electrical issue which I over thought instead of diving in and getting it done the only...

Ok, I'll let you know how it turns out. My dad purchased this Monty for 900$ at this point I've flushed and replaced all fluids, new brakes and rotors, New rad belt and hoses and Tstat, new shocks, rear glass shocks, new front stabilizer links, New upper control arms with ball joints, New...

Yes the P/Y was broken, The thin green wire was broken somewhere deep in the boot and most likely close to the connector. There was one other green wire within the harness that was aprox. 2 gauge larger than the smaller gauge wires that were P/Y and green which were broken. I feel certain that...

I just went back out and reconnected the plug connector, Small green wire is for rt.and Lt. motion on pas side mirror. If my guess is correct the larger green is probably for a stereo speaker. What would you think about cutting the boot in the bellows area just small enough to find the green...

Hey Koda Please read post 21, Trying to figure out my next line of attack. I did test for continuity and I had 2 relays that I changed out without success.

.

Thanks for the help I just found the P/Y wire broken in the boot that one would not be too hard to solder up, However I also found a green wire that is about the same gauge as P/Y that is broken off deep inside the Boot probably close to the connector I can't see the end of it. There are 2...

I got the conduit open and found the P/y connector to be solid, Starting on the front door now, this looks like it's going to be a lot if fun. LOL I don't have a helper.

I just noticed the link you provided I'm going to go back and see how to snap the conduit open.

I removed the sill plate, what I can't figure out is how to open up the long plastic box that the wires run through that the sill plate snaps onto. I've removed all the electrical tape from the harness where it runs under the back seat and found nothing there. Thanks again I really appreciate...

Koda2000 from what the diagram shows P/Y is to lock P/G is unlock. when I test the P/Y wire at the master switch it is positive/hot at all times When I test the P/G it is neutral until I press the switch to lock position and then it becomes a ground. Remember I'm dealing with a no Lock situation...

Thanks for the information Koda, I'll check those out later this afternoon. I wonder if the original code will work if the PO changed the code to a personal code.

What I don't understand is if the P/G wire is broken why would the door locks work all the way around with the Pas/Hatch switch? But I will look into what you all have had to say. Am I correct in thinking that the P/Y and the P/G wire should have power to both at all times?

Koda2000 Just no power at the P/G wire at the drivers door switch. I was just hoping it would be something simple like a seloinoid,LOL