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This is how I did it. Works like a charm. What you may be referring to as the kick panel method is the inertia switch that shuts off the fuel pump in case of an accident. But, honestly, pulling the fuel pump fuse is easier.

Well, been awhile since I posted. November of 2010, I parted ways with my 91 explorer after nearly 20 years of ownership and 325k miles. Essentially, it just rotted out and I replaced it with a cheap, used, decent condition full size pickup. But I'm back with a quick question. I was...

Private or dealer...honestly hard to say. The owner bought it through his brother's dealership at auction but never registered it as a private car. It is a large dealership (mostly new cars). He fixed the O2 so I may take it for another drive this weekend and see.

Yeah, I've seen that with my Volvo, and that's why I wanted to ask. So, really, if the car runs better now it shouldn't be a large concern. I do remember now that when he pulled up he said the battery was completely dead and he had to jump it. It was sitting for a few weeks apparently...

That was my thought, but I figured 30 minutes of the engine running would be enough time to set off codes.

I was test driving a 98 Mounty 5.0 the other night and found this: The engine idled really smooth, best I've seen to date. However, as soon as we started to drive, it was stumbling really bad. Getting on the highway was painful. Drove it for about 10 minutes (just due to where exits were...

That answers a few of my questions. I didn't know if they used air bags or just shocks. I'm thinking of getting an 98 EB 5.0 with the Air suspension on it. THe air suspension isn't an option I originally even looked for, it just happened to be on this one.

I'm just curious, anyone have pictures of the air ride suspension parts for the EB with air ride?

So, my quest continues to find a decent used 2nd Gen explorer. THis weekend, I looked at a 98 EB 5.0 AWD with 92k miles. Only real problems I saw was that some of the carpet was a little rough, the center console had a large rip in the leather. It did make a loud clunking noise from the...

I agree, I doubt the two issues are related...just pure timing.

Oh the joys of dropping the fuel tank! A few other pieces of advice: 1) wear long sleeves and gloves while handling the fuel tank. It seemed weird, but my fuel tank seemed to be made partially out of some type of fiberglass resin (I'm not an expert on fuel tank construction methods these...

I agree stringer if it's something that is perfect. However, it's not the 100% of everything I'm looking for, it's like a 90% fit, so I'm willing to walk. I may have found a 100% fit, but it is a little more $$, but I'll likely pay it if it stacks up well. marragtop, I do appreciate the...

for the rattle, check the heat shield on the cat and muffler if it sounds like it is coming from the mid to rear of the explorer. Also check the hangers. If it's old they can rust, break and then rattle.

I know...hence why I told him to let me know and that I'd just plan to come up on Sunday after I looked at a few explorers closer to my house. I have a 1.5 hour 1-way drive to see it. Even if it is true, I'm not driving 1.5 hours just to find out it was sold 10 minutes prior to my arrival. I...

I'm being very patient. I never close on a deal after first seeing the car. I always leave so I'm taken by the moment. Usually the drive home gives me a chance to go over the results of all my tests. I bring my hydraulic jack, inspection mirror, micrometer, metal tested (and old paint pull...

I'd start checking for grounds. More than likely it's a loose wire somewhere making (like bud said) a 'false' ground. Could be a relay somewhere staying open (or closed depending on normal operation).

A tick on startup for up to 30 seconds isn't uncommon. Just means the lifters are pressurizing. If it happens a lot, it may be a sign of a lifter starting to wear out (they usually don't loss pressure every time you let it sit for long periods). As it was previously said, if you really had...

If I didn't...I'd lose oil pressure at 1200RPM. While I think it is some weird internal engine quirk, I don't like driving down the highway with no pressure. It's one thing to let it idle with no pressure, another to drive 70MPH with no pressure. I actually usually put about half a quart of...

And have fun working on a minivan if you do the work yourself. I'd rather work on a compact korean car using standard size tools.

As it said when I bought my 65. "Rust Free" Interpretation: "The Rust is Free of Charge!". Luckily I inspected the car and saw all the missing metal. Maybe it was rust free...there was no more rust.

I say take your wife up on her offer...trade her (the wife) in for a minivan, keep the explorer and get a minivan! it's funny, my wife wanted a volvo. Couldn't find one for a price I was willing to pay. I threatened to get a minivan and she said "get an explorer".

Brass = bad, most likely a spun bearing The swap itself isn't too bad if you've done any kind of engine swap before. If you don't have any experience with it, it can be a pain. Plus side, the 4.0 is relatively small for the engine bay. Not like cramming a large engine in there. My...

I never did figure out why my oil pressure gauge in my 91 is all screwy. After the car warms up, oil pressure goes to 0. I replaced the sender, same. Check with a mechanical gauge, sure enough, pressure is 0 at idle, 35psi at 1500RPM. Been doing that for 70k miles now, engine still...

What annoys me is deliberate misrepresentation. Tell me the truth. If I come and see it and know the truth, I'm more likely to buy it even with small problems. If you don't tell me and I find problems, I'll walk away, I don't care how good a deal it is because I worry about what I can't...

Wow...I had forgotten why I only shop for cars once every 7-8 years, find a perfect one and drive it forever. Top most frustrating things: 1) "Runs Great, Engine needs replacing". so...how is it running great? 2) "Low Miles" -150k miles. 3) Pictures posted on craigslist...taken...