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yeah it probably is a windstar..hehe thanks for the info! Reset twice then..that's the trick, I just held it in like on the Jeeps I service.

Okay a friend of mine has a Ford Van of some sort like a 99, and I think maybe they are similar to the Explorer or someone here would know. Every time she turns on the car, she gets check front headlight right, change oil, and check this and that, but everything is fine. There's three buttons...

Well I put the new brake shoes on and the drums, wasn't too bad, though those springs weren't exactly friendly took some talent to get the passengers side assembled. But I ran it topped off with a synthetic Dot 3 to bleed the brakes, and it didn't like the mix. Now the whole system has to be...

these things shouldn't be legal to drive on normal streets, let alone fast, they are too big :) hehe

Okay nevermind yeah it says front rotors and rear brake shoes, the guy at the counter confused me, but on the paper it says that. So anyone have any tips on these rear shoes, or is it atypical I'd imagine like any other drum?

Okay had the car taken in for annual inspection, they said that the rear rotors were worn and the rear brakes. Does the 94 Ford Explorer sport even have the option of rear rotors. All the catalogues I've browsed thru don't even sell them. I have yet to take the rear wheels off to look, but I'm a...

I suspect the ignition switch, you have a problem with wear in the switch, I bet the truck is used for a lot of short off/on trips. Like daily driver, in this case the switch wears out, and you start to get electrical gremlins like the fuel sensor meter on the cluster. Replace the switch...only...

Most splugs don't have adjustable gaps anymore, you just buy the one that fits your model and that's it. I haven't heard anything about cleaning problems...problem with platinums is the tips last longer, so people leave them in the head till they are siezed up. They do that with a lot of plugs...

I highly doubt it's the manifold gaskets on the rear of the engine. The ports for the water jacket into there for coolant flow only have escape points at the head gasket. The intake and exhaust are open to the valves, if you had the waterjacket open into where they mated you'd be in trouble with...

Well it could be losing resistance, O2 sensors are the most wear ready part on your car at that age. I wouldn't expect to find problems elsewhere...because those are not wear parts.

If you have over 60k on the truck and haven't changed the O2 sensors you might wanna start there. I noticed big improvement in acceleration and agility after just swapping one out. It was stumbling and missing a lot you could feel it, lagged acceleration jumpy torque revs with the sensor wires cut.

Don't punch out the cat, if you want to replace it replace it, but first check for codes and make sure there's no other running problems that will ruin it. I'd start with replacing the O2 sensors if you haven't done so in 60k miles or more. Then you want a cheap oem cat you ask me I can get...

Modern spark plug wires are made of materials that they should not need replacing generally for their lifetime unless running problems exist. The older ones made of rubber coating tended to dry rot and crack and needed replacement much sooner. I'm running new bosch plugs and wires though...

O2 sensors are pretty disposable tune up items, they should be replaced without a doubt by 100k. Most recommendations are 60k..some cars 40k...I just did mine today there's these really stupid zipties that hold the connector down so you can't easily disconnect it behind the engine. They were a...

I put in new O2 sensor today big difference in performance, went from a sluggish missing load of junk to a like new motor, very sporty zippy. No codes either...with them bad..

Well I finally got the drivers side oxy sensor off, the trick with these is to get some vice grips around the connector wire and stand on something to get a good view of it in the day time. Then if you pull on it you will break free the little plastic ties that are holding it in such a bad...

Check the oxy sensors, I just cut the wire on one of mine in lew of changing them hopefully tomorrow, and the engine seems sluggish and hesitant, because of the unregulated default fuel mixture.

Check the coolant temperature sensor, this can make it run rich and it won't throw a code.

I just cleaned my head for paint prep with paint thinner...that's a good solution if you really don't wanna use water and don't mind the stink :)

Make sure you go to Ford and get the differential fluid that is used in there stock. Differntial fluid is different than regular gear oil, it has a non-slip property to it, it's special.

A bad u joint generally will contribute to drive axle knock at low torque speeds not squeak...Since the drive would put more output on shaft when in reverse you have to expect that is why it's louder. But it certainly can be the differential, unless the classic signs of knock are seen indicating...

Just tie baggies around the electronics..it says this on most engine degreasers. The problem is you can short out the ignition mainly...happened to me just opening the hood in the rain. I had a distributor that was cracked and due for replacement. I opened the hood to check on a part number in...

If you are getting such fuel mileage then you probably have a fuel leak somewhere. A lean condition without performance problems doesn't constitute much. Sometimes fuel leaks will only happen at high speeds or going up hills etc. It can be difficult to know that it is leaking, but keep checking.

well on mine there is one on each down pipe accessible from below the car and both are before the cat converter. They are about 4inch long cylinder metal tubes with wires coming out the back end.

maybe the rear differential is low on fluid??